How To Spend a Romantic Weekend Uncovering Palm Springs’ Mid-Century Beauty

Julie Royce
9 min readOct 16, 2023

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Image Credit: 2mmedia

Every June, my husband and I plan an anniversary adventure that takes us somewhere memorable. This year, we decided on sunny Palm Springs, California, the home away from home for old-world Hollywood. Nestled near the San Jose Mountains and surrounded by desert, Palm Springs has great restaurants, eclectic art galleries and museums, and a ton of majestic beauty to absorb.

As lovers of mid-century design, we wanted to escape to the place that inspired our home in Austin, Texas, and see the magnificent architecture and style for ourselves.

Here is my guide for visiting this glamorous little town in southern California.

Hotels

The Holiday House

200 W Arenas Rd, Palm Springs, CA 92262

After several weeks of researching the best hotels in Palm Springs that were within our budget, we finally decided on the quaint and artistic boutique hotel, The Holiday House, as the place to stay. Other than budget, we required a few other hotel offerings:

  1. Adults only

2. Full poolside service

3. Free breakfast

4. Quiet space

5. Walking distance

This charming, blue and white painted hotel met our needs and then some. We will definitely return because of their exceptional customer service, beautifully manicured lawn, spacious and well-decorated rooms, and gorgeous pool surrounded by large palm and fruit trees.

The staff always greeted us by name and, within a day or two, could anticipate our needs with few questions.

Each day, we started with the most delicious, healthy breakfast served a la carte from the bar/lounge area. Guests can choose from fresh fruit, yogurt and chia pudding, bagels and lox, cereals, toasts, hard-boiled eggs, and so much more. Their lunch and dinner menus comprised a more focused selection of nutritious yet fun choices, such as a bucket of veggies, grilled artichokes, and lobster rolls.

Our deluxe “Big Room” accommodations comprised a handsome king-size bed with luxurious bedding by Mark D. Sikes custom textiles, an oversized indoor shower and bathroom, an outdoor shower, a sitting area, and a kitchenette with vintage glassware and Smeg appliances.

In addition to the pool, guests can rent bicycles, play bocce ball, snuggle by the fire pit, bask in the jacuzzi, and enjoy delicious ice cream from the retro cart near the pool.

Parker Palm Springs

4200 E Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92264

The upscale Parker Resort and Spa encompasses quintessential mid-century elegance and glam from the grandiose breezeway block wall in front of the hotel entrance to the opulently lush gardens featuring a cheeky Jonathan Adler “Banana” sculpture. Although we did not stay at this posh hotel, we visited multiple times during our week-long trip to enjoy a spa day and the restaurants on the grounds. We took advantage of the couple’s massage services at their Yacht Club Spa and were greeted with a cucumber-infused Vodka shot to set the mood. The spa’s delightful, high-end, nautical ambiance left us feeling relaxed and refreshed. Afterward, we enjoyed a light lunch at their main restaurant, Norma’s–read more about that experience below.

Fleur Noire Hotel

1555 N Indian Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262

After seeing an Instagram reel highlighting “La Boisson,” the rose wine bar at Fluer Noire Hotel, I had to stop by this sweet little place. And let me tell you, I’m so glad that we did! With its colorful painted floral walls by artist Ellie Cashman, their enchanting courtyard was a pleasing spot to visit just as the sun was setting. They offered a great selection of rose wines, and the friendly bartender walked us around the grounds to take our picture in just the right spots.

Restaurants

Workshop Kitchen & Bar

800 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262

The industrial architecture of clean, modern lines made of concrete and iron is an excellent backdrop for an incredible culinary experience at Workshop. In 2012, the chefs and owners partnered to renovate this 1926 historic El Paseo building in Palm Springs Design District and have been creating James Beard award-winning dishes ever since. Most of the restaurant’s produce is grown in Chef Michael’s home garden in Rancho Mirage and lends to the seasonal menu changes. We started our meal with a chilled asparagus soup, followed by duck fried rice and the English pea risotto paired with a Stolpman white wine.

Sandfish Sushi & Whiskey

1556 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262

Offering a global twist on traditional Japanese cuisine, Chef Engin Onural delivers unique dishes, pairing them with inspired whiskey and craft cocktail creations for a fabulous dining experience. Sandfish’s distinctive seasonal menu presents a large selection of signature, classic, and maki rolls, nigiri sushi, sashimi, and an Omakase “Chef’s Tasting Menu.” But don’t skip over their signature dishes, such as the braised and grilled octopus or the pork belly bao buns.

Sherman’s Deli & Bakery

401 E Tahquitz Canyon Way Palm Springs, CA 92262

Sherman Harris opened his first Palm Springs restaurant in the early 1950s, and it was home to many celebrities, including Frank Sinatra, Red Skelton, Zsa Zsa Gabor, Bob Hope, Rite Hayworth, and Keely Smith. This mid-century-designed deli has served some of the best matzoh ball soup, pastrami and corn-beef sandwiches, and chicken salad ever since. It is an excellent breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot, so add it to your must-visit places to enjoy a meal.

Farm

6 La Plaza, Palm Springs, CA 92262

Offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner, this hidden little gem set back from downtown’s central plaza is quite magical. Upon entering, guests feel like they are stepping into a secret garden filled with bougainvillea-lined walls, twinkling fairy lights, and heavenly scents of delicious food pulling them in. We joined them for dinner, with a set seasonal menu of three entrees, three sides, and three desserts to choose from. While we savored our meals, we were serenaded by a performer singing loungey hits and taking requests from the patrons. It was such an engaging evening that made this meal memorable.

Bar Cecil

1555 S Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92264

Bar Cecil is such a hot spot that we were unable to get reservations before we arrived in Palm Springs, but on our last night in town, I asked the Holiday House hotel manager if he could see about getting us a table at the last minute and he came through for us! This French bistro boasts an excellent menu selection and finely curated cocktails. We dined on appetizers of deviled eggs topped with Regiis Ova Royal Caviar (for an additional charge), girl and dug farm salad, grilled broccolini, the Beaton burger, and the bucatini with peas and black truffles, pairing the meal with a crisp Anselmo Mendes Vinho Verde.

Chicken Ranch

515 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262

If you know me, you know I love a great cobb salad, so when we stumbled across Chicken Ranch with their cute little patio while exploring downtown Palm Springs, we jumped at the opportunity to eat there. Serving sandwiches, salads, and half and whole rotisserie chicken made fresh daily, I can see why locals and tourists love this place. They offer easy ordering and payment options and have a great menu to select from.

Norma’s

4200 E Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92264

This sister restaurant to the one in New York City, also named Norma’s, is a brightly colored, open-air terrace restaurant located on the grounds of the Parker Palm Springs. We lunched here after spending time in their Yacht Club Spa; it was the perfect way to continue unwinding and relaxing. Serving breakfast all day and all night, guests can enjoy delectable dishes of very berry brioche french toast and a variety of egg benedicts, or if you’re feeling fancy, you can splurge on the “Zillion Dollar Lobster Frittata” — super-sized with 10 oz of white sturgeon reserve for $1,000. We passed on that choice.

Bars

Bootleggers Tiki Bar

1101 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262

We were super excited to try out this kitschy tiki bar and lounge after our meal at Farm, but to be honest, we were underwhelmed. The drinks were good, albeit pricey, but the service could have been better. We sat at the bar and attempted to engage the bartender a couple of times, but she was not having anything to do with us. She was all business, making drinks and ignoring other customers.

Counter Reformation (Parker Hotel)

4200 E Palm Canyon Dr #5230, Palm Springs, CA 92264

Counter Reformation had multiple great reviews on various travel outlets, so our curiosity was piqued to see what they offered. The menu looked enticing and different, and the wine selection seemed well-curated; plus, it was inside the Parker–another great reason to pop in.

Although the decor was sharp and stylish with its nod to old-school Hollywood clubs–mirrored walls, black tile, wicker furniture, and brass fixtures- we were let down by the food and wine selections on the menu that evening. For a wine bar, we expect the tender to be knowledgeable about the wine they’re serving, but unfortunately, she missed the mark.

The Amigo Room (Ace Hotel)

701 E Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92264

I’m so glad we decided to check out this place after a disappointing Bootleggers experience. The engaging bartenders were excellent and made some killer cocktails for us. I had a Delayed Flight made with plantation pineapple rum, lime, and cinnamon, while my husband enjoyed their Pina Colada, which came highly recommended by the bar manager. The lively nightlife atmosphere was a great way to end our evening.

Art Galleries & Shops

I’ll preface this by saying that most art galleries, museums, and shops have limited business hours during the summer months. The busy tourist season ends in May, so when we visited a couple of weeks later, many places were unfortunately not open.

The Shag Store

745 North Palm Canyon Drive Palm Springs, CA, 92262

Shag is a lifestyle brand featuring the work of artist Josh Agle aka Shag. Their exclusive limited edition prints and merchandising consist of whimsical takes of cartoon-like characters in various scenes. Whether it be “goth night” at a local club or “the incognitos” at a pool party at Richard Neutra Kauffman’s desert house, patrons can pick up beach towels, mugs, and coasters as a souvenir from their Palm Springs trip.

Christopher Anthony Ltd

803 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262

I loved this store! Hands down, one of the best-curated vintage home furnishings and fine art galleries I’ve ever been in. They had incredible barware and decanter sets, fabulous furniture, and exceptional art. This is a premier spot to check out for all mid-century lovers. If I’m honest, I had to be dragged out of there.

J. Kenneth Fine Art

668 N Palm Canyon Dr, Palm Springs, CA 92262

Everywhere we visit, we must explore at least a couple of art galleries, and I was thrilled that this gallery was open when visiting Palm Springs. Representing a well-curated group of artists and estates, J. Kenneth remains committed to promoting and showcasing the best of the very best, like abstract expressionist painter Taro Yamamoto and contemporary artist Lynne Drexler, with a current exhibit on show.

Things To Do

Joshua Tree National Park

Not just an iconic U2 album, but Joshua Tree is the magical place where the Mojave and Colorado deserts meet in southern California. Just an hour’s drive from Palm Springs, this natural wonder hosts a plethora of fascinating wildlife, superb star-gazing, and fabulous hiking and camping adventures. Visitors can buy their day pass online, or if you already have the National Parks Pass, that can also be used. We spent the day exploring this age-old ecosystem created by strong winds and wind torrents.

Mid-Century Architecture Home Tour

You must take advantage of the home tour with Palm Springs Mod Squad. Explore the mid-century grandeur of butterfly rooflines, colorful front doors, and A-frame facades in the Mod Squad van and learn the history of this desert oasis and the celebrities who made it their vacation getaway.

Visitors can choose from 3 different options: the Essential Palm Springs Tour focuses on six specific architects of this minimalist design, the Interior Tour takes you into three mid-century Palm Springs houses, or the Martini & MCM Architecture Tour and see the former homes of Frank Sinatra, Marilyn Monroe, and Dean Martin, ending with a classic martini (and if you’re lucky you’ll get to sit in Old Blue Eye’s booth)!

Aerial Tramway Adventure

The world’s largest rotating tram car, the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway travels over two and one-half miles along the awe-inspiring cliffs of Chino Canyon, delivering riders to the pristine grounds of the Mt. San Jacinto State Park. The trams rotate slowly during this approximate 10-minute ride, offering guests picturesque views to capture those perfect memories. Once you reach the Mountain Station, you are greeted with two restaurants, a natural history museum, observation decks, gift shops, and over 50 miles of hiking trails to test your endurance. Tickets can be bought online beforehand.

Joshua Tree National Park

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Julie Royce
Julie Royce

Written by Julie Royce

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Freelance writer located in Austin, Texas covering art, travel and food.