I recently had a chance to travel across Europe and to bring along my friends, albeit virtually. I thought to share my experience and thereby put a cute little knot to that adventure.
I have mentioned in a previous post about the pact that I have with myself to journal everyday whilst I’m travelling, otherwise I ain’t chucking money for the next one. This is I, making a down payment on my next safari whenever that will be.
This excerpt from my diary, will take a more information-sharing kind of format. If I were to publish 18 days worth of travel experience, it would be thesis-long. I visited Sweden, Belgium, France, Italy and Vatican City.
Here is the background story, plus tips and tricks that I picked along the way.
Plan
My best friend from high school, and now for 14 years, got a posting to work in Stockholm, Sweden. Thus, my bestie and I planned to chase her tail- make sure she’s settled well, vet potential suitors, get an actual feel of her routine etc. (you know, full bff mode)
Visa application & Processing
As Sweden falls within the Schengen region, we needed to secure that visa. We made our application through the Swedish embassy, as the country would be our first point of entry to Schengen. Alternatively, one may apply to the country where one intends to have the longest stay.
As you would know, planning to travel while black (and African) is not as seamless as it is for the rest. There are consulars that are known to be strict (read mean) than others e.g. the UK, USA, the Nordics (as we would later learn).
The expectation is always two-fold. One, to prove that you have sufficient reason to return to your country of origin e.g. by proof of employment. Two, that you have means to sustain yourself whilst there for the duration aforementioned. My approach has always been to present more than is required e.g. if the requirement is 3 months bank statement, I’ll present 6 months etc.
Having traveled to Switzerland in 2015, the Schengen consulars already had my data, hence I wasn’t subjected to biometric processing again. Additionally, my visa was out in a week — standard period is 15 days.
However; regrettably, my bestie’s application was rejected and the embassy had the audacity to retain her passport for an additional seven days (total 22 days) — totally inappropriate.
So, completely unexpected, this would end up as solo sojourning. Trust me to tap into that Zen power and go on with the plan anyway.
I was anxious about the transit between the countries especially in regards to immigration desks/offices. You know, just in case one of the countries would deny me entry. I would later learn that having gained entry into the first schengen country I wouldn’t encounter immigration desks elsewhere whether at airports or the physical border points. They are considered local arrivals (as say, landing in JKIA-Nairobi from Mombasa). Also, passengers don’t get off the bus at the border point for any form of checks. In fact, one is hardly even aware when crossing the border points.
Transport
Transiting across countries is surprisingly very affordable- whether by bus or flight. Definitely cheaper and more convenient than it is across African cities.
There exist many budget airlines. However, you may want to confirm the arrival and departure airports as most of the budget airlines don’t operate from the country’s main airport. (for context- Wilson and JKIA airports in Nairobi city)
I used Lot airlines from Stockholm to Brussels via Talinn, Estonia. For the rest of my sojourning I travelled by bus- even for 22 hours and I loved it!
Flix bus company, that has its origin in Germany, is quite the rave! Almost everyone I met while on this trip had travelled by Flix bus. It’s quite literally a plane on wheels — with two level seating plans- downstairs and upstairs, a lavatory on board, efficient pick up/drop off time and very reliable Wi-Fi and charging ports. The booking system is fully digitized including seat placement. It’s very affordable too!
While researching I came across a package dubbed the ‘interflix pass’. Get 5 tickets (to 5 different cities/countries) for only 99 Euro. It surely can’t get better than that! I didn’t get to use the pass, but that’s truly your plug for transport within Europe.
For flights, I normally do not engage the service of agents. I use the sites Google flights and Skyscanner. They operate by scanning all the airlines websites and revert with a summary of all flights plying your route based on duration, cost etc. Once you choose the most favourable, you’re then redirected to the specific airline’s website to reserve and pay.
Accommodation
While in Stockholm, I stayed at my bestie’s.
I had contemplated getting accommodation on airbnb for the rest of my destinations, but a quick search on the app didn’t seem to yield any results based on my preferences.
There was too much that needed to be taken into consideration — optimum location, a super host, safety for a solo lady traveller, transport to and from the location, cleanliness etc. Just when all these boxes were checked, the premises would not be available for my intended days of travel L
A Tanzanian I met while on transit happened to mention the possibility of checking out hostels. My mind was quickly taken back to my stay in Geneva where our entire delegation to the World Health Assembly of the WHO, stayed at a hostel and had such a pleasant stay. Thus, for the rest of the destinations I stayed at hostels and I deeply, truly loved it.
It gave me an opportunity to meet fellow solo travellers and bond, keep each other company and exchange notes. My safety was assured and location optimum. All the ones I stayed at were 500 metres within the city’s main train station. This would definitely not be the case if it were an airbnb.
Let me single out my personal favourite, The Yellow. It’s ranked the best hostel in Rome and rightfully so.
It was 14.50 euro per night plus 3 euro (city tax). That’s barely Kshs 2,000 per night for an ensuite room for 6 pax, with a complimentary kitchen, luggage storage and free pasta at 6.45pm. They went out of their way to grant me early check in at 8 am- normal time is 3pm. Each of their staff was very enthusiastic in lending a hand.
Please note- You may want to consider making a reservation to any of the hostels. Chances are they might not have room, even up to a week, if you just show up.
Budget
Of course there is a cost implication though not as huge as one would imagine. Let’s break it down…
A random check on a return flight on Skyscanner from NBO to CDG- France exactly two months from now is $560. For transport within Europe, you may take advantage of the Flix bus interflix pass or any of their other tickets.
Accommodation — hostels are the best and cheapest in my opinion. All information and reviews are available on the app Hostelworld. It gets slightly more expensive in the summer.
Site seeing — the budget is dependent on your interests. For example, I had no interest going up and down the Eiffel Tower or going inside the Colosseum. My heart was fulfilled with just beholding the architectural marvels from outside, so I didn’t get a tickets for that. On the other hand, I got a ticket to the Nobel museum in Sweden.
Another option would be to take advantage of the Free walking tours available in almost each European country. You sign up online, avail yourself at the designated meet up spot and for about 2 hours you’re treated to a comprehensive tour of the city with history gems and tips on what to do where. At the end, you’re given an opportunity to tip the facilitator- it’s only fair, right? I took part in two of these- In Stockholm and Brussels.
Food- It can be quite expensive in most Europe capitals and can take up a huge chunk of the budget e.g. approximately 15 euro for a decent meal in Brussels. The hack is to select an accommodation option, in this case hostel, with a kitchen. It is how backpackers survive. That way, you may make 2 or 3 meals daily and only get to sample the local cuisine when you want to.
Saving- a friend asked me to share a saving tip. Saving comes almost naturally to me. I’m not a splurge on a whim kinda girl. For those that struggle a bit with this, thankfully there are mechanisms already in place that one may take advantage of. e.g. goal savings accounts, ’52 weeks savings challenge’ that has become quite the rave. As with anything else in life consistency and accountability will make the target readily achievable.
Self Care
18 days of non-stop travel surely did take a toll on my body. I found myself wanting to take in the most of these cities thus I would be endlessly exploring, deeply fascinated and only at the ache of my back or foot would I realize that I had been walking for almost 5 hours.
I suffered cracked feet and blistered hands. One day I figured that if I were to make it to the finish line I needed to take it slow. So I took a day off to just stay indoors and rest and only when I was ready to, did I hit the road again.
…
Even though I became a solo traveller out of circumstance, rather than choice… in retrospect I’m glad I got to do it.
I truly enjoyed myself- solitude to an introvert is food for the soul, I had freedom over my schedule- I only took part in what I truly wanted to do. I grew in my relationship with self- made me see just how capable I really am. I got to give myself lotsa fist bumps and forearm kisses- I used to do that a lot in my single days (haha) and had forgotten just how reassuring it is.
When I realized I was on my last leg of the trip and that the next destination would be home this time, I did a smooth jiggle. I had impeccably passed this test.
Next one, please.
((part two on my impressions of the cities I visited, will be published shortly))