Surviving minus 30 deg C, Markha Valley (13,000 ft) Frozen River Trek in Leh Ladakh
What is takes to survive and trek in such extreme temperatures at such high altitudes? The adventurous journey of a solo female traveler forgoing international travel to explore the Himalayas. Dec 2022 Holidays, I signed up for a ten-day trek in Markha Valley, Leh — 3rd Himalayan trek. In the last one year, I have completed two more treks — Kedarkantha in winter and Har Ki Dun in summer.
This blog covers what happens on High altitude Himalayan treks, Life in Ladakh, and key highlights of this offbeat trek
Markha Valley (13,000 ft/ 4000 meters) is an offbeat trek in the Leh Ladakh region during winter. It is rated as a Moderate-Difficult trek Level 4. On a scale of 1–10, Mount Everest is ranked 10. Only a few trekking companies organize this trek during winter. I went with Bikat adventures and trekked for seven days straight (The highest so far for me)
What sets this trek apart is the thrill of trekking on the frozen Markha river, popularly called Chadar — blanket of hard ice on the frozen river) The average temperature during the day falls to minus 15- 20 deg C. Nights are extremely cold, and the temperature drops to minus 30 deg C.
Day 4 of the trek — Hunkar was the coldest region wherein temp fell to minus 35 deg C. Without warm layers, it feels being locked up in the deep freezer. My feet and hands became numb with cold, and trekking was the only way to keep myself warm. I trekked with warm layers on. Some days, it was pretty windy, and I had to cover my face with a balaclava or neck warmer.
High-altitude Himalayan treks are physically challenging. It requires good fitness and mental preparation. As this trek is rated Level 4, prior experience completing level 2 and 3 treks were mandatory.
Most treks in the Leh Ladakh region are higher on the difficulty scale because of the high altitude and terrain.
This trek tested my endurance at every section as the trail was long and almost felt never-ending. Every day we trekked for nearly 5–6 hours and walked on slippery ice slopes. This trek gave the real thrill of Chadar (frozen Zanskar river)
Facts
-> Difficulty Level — 4 (Need to complete Level 2 and 3 to be eligible for this)
-> Trek route- Starts from Chilling and ends at Hunkar, and we retrace our way back from Hunkar to Chilling. Chilling -> Skiu -> Sara -> Markha -> Hunkar
-> Total distance covered — 60–70 km (Avg daily trekking hours — 5–6 hours with gradual ascent descent and flat trail trekking through the valley + frozen river)
-> # Trekking days — 7 days (Highest so far for me)
-> # Acclimatisation days — 3 days in Leh (Rest, Hydration, and Proper Nutrition, No Diamox)
-> Temp range -15 to -40 deg C (Winter — Dec to Feb)
Acclimatization
Acclimatisation is the essential part of any trek in Ladakh. When you fly to Leh, you land directly at 3500m / 11500 ft. Bangalore is at 3000ft, and thus, extreme altitude gain. To avoid altitude sickness, one must acclimate to Leh for a minimum of 2 days before starting the trek. While exploring Leh, I explored various tourist spots — Hemis Monastery, Shey Palace, Shanti Stupa, and Leh Palace.
Natural acclimatization tip — To avoid altitude sickness, one has to climb to a higher altitude and sleep at a lower altitude.
About Markha Valley
Markha is a gorgeous river valley set in the cold arid desert of Ladakh. This trek route goes inside Hemis National Park, home to plenty of unique wildlife. It involves river crossing and stunning views of Kang Yatse and Stok Kangri ranges.
We were the 1st, and last batch of this trek during this season as most trekkers opt for the popular Chadar trek (Frozen Zanskar). But this trek had it all — Frozen Waterfall at Chilling, Snow Leopard, Adventure of Trekking on Chadar, and experiencing negative temperatures. Just 11 odd trekkers were traversing through the barren landscapes of Markha valley. This was pure wilderness. And that’s what made this entire experience so unique.
Key Highlights of the Trek
1. First glimpse of Kang Yatse (6000m) peak
On day 4 we trekked from Markha to Hunkar. It was a long boring walk as the landscape remained constant for nearly 3–4 hours. I had difficulty breathing due to a 1000 ft altitude gain in a few hours. I caught the first glimpse of a snow-covered peak. I was intrigued, my pace increased rapidly, and I was running on the trail. My mind filled with only one question — Is this snow-covered peak — Kang Yatse?
My primary reason for signing up for this trek was to see this 6000m peak so close, as my goal is to attempt this summit in the future. I was beyond excited to see the magnificent Kang Yatse pyramid-shaped peak standing tall and almost screaming at me — ‘Dare You.’
I was not too fond of even one-day treks two years ago. All this changed after my 1st Himalayan trek. The adrenaline rush that high-altitude treks offer has become an addiction. The challenge of pursuing treks Level 5 and above has consumed my mind.
There is a saying — “Mountains are calling, and I must go.”
2. Walking on the frozen river and river crossing
Unlike other treks, walking on the frozen river is a unique experience. Every day is filled with surprises as the Chadar surface keeps changing during the entire trail — it can be hard and slippery ice, freshly formed Chadar (a blanket of ice), Old Chadar that’s weak and breaking, or fresh powder snow on hard ice. The most challenging part is walking on hard slippery ice.
When I first started walking on Chadar, I slipped and fell multiple times, and then I learned to walk like a penguin without lifting my feet off the Chadar. Gradually, I learned to find spots where the Chadar is more stable; I walked on snow as snow creates friction and, thus, is less slippery than ice. The crackling sound of Chadar as it breaks beneath your feet can be terrifying.
In places where Chadar was not formed on the river, and there was no alternate route, we had to cross the river (Video below). The water here was thigh-high and icy cold. Even if shoes are waterproof, we had to take off our shoes and cross the river barefoot or with slippers. Thus, I tied my shoes around my neck and rolled up my pants. My feet went almost numb mid-way through crossing the river. I bit my lips so hard that I couldn’t feel my lips and feet both for a few seconds. The Trek leader instructed us to move quickly. Rub your feet hard, wear clean socks and shoes, and start trekking to avoid the risk of hypothermia.
https://youtube.com/shorts/nX628vBUxqQ?feature=share
3. Spotting Snow Leopard Footprints on Trail
On Day 2 of the Trek, for roughly 100 meters, we spotted fresh pug marks on the trail. I strongly felt that I was being watched over by the Big Cat. But it is difficult for the human eye to spot Snow Leopard as they get camouflaged by the Ladakh mountains.
Snow leopards usually stay high on mountains 4000–5000m or higher. In winter, they descend to lower altitudes for various reasons — mating, hunting, food, etc. In winter, Snow Leopard expeditions are quite famous in Leh Ladakh.
On 31st Dec, Snow Leopard was spotted in Markha Village. Video below
What does a typical trekking day look like?
We wake up at 6 am and start trekking by 8 am. In 2 hours, we have breakfast, pack our backs, and warm up. On the trek, no one takes a bath. Water is icy cold to even wash your face or brush your teeth. I have figured out hacks for this. Brushing your teeth early morning with absolute silence of mountains surrounding from all four corners. What bliss! In winter treks, wet wipes, moisturizer, and sunscreen gets frozen quickly.
What about toilets — I get this question a lot. There are dry toilets on any Himalayan trek. No water. Only use tissue paper. No frozen wet wipes, as they’re non-biodegradable. These toilets are common to men and women and are usually located far as possible from water sources or campsites.
It is difficult to manage human waste in the mountains. Thus, pits are dug into the ground, which uses composting mechanisms to convert human waste into rich manure.
People of Ladakh
Life in Leh is tough. We traveled to remote villages with just 5–6 houses (population of < 50). Staple food is rice and dal. The primary source of electricity is solar panels installed in homes. Schools or hospitals in remote areas are absent. To access these basic amenities, people must travel to Leh city ( > 50km). Kids go to boarding schools in cities. Cooking is done in traditional style on gas stoves as an LPG cylinder costs a whopping Rs. 2500 as there is no direct mode of transportation. When it floods, the entire village can get washed away in seconds as all the mud and water from mountains flows downstream.
How we survived minus 30 temperature at night — Bukhari is the answer (Image below) Bukhari is placed center of the kitchen. It is a wide cylindrical shaped heater with the chimney at the top and wood at the base, which is burned to generate heat. Every day after trekking, we all used to sit in the kitchen area until dinner.
Despite all this, I was amazed by the warmth and hospitality of the Ladakhi people. They were always welcoming us with a cheerful smiles. 31st Dec last day of the trek, I spent time with 3 kids at Skiu homestay. Image below. One of the best moments of this trek which I will cherish forever. Yes, I miss them a lot.
Conclusion
Physically present in Bangalore but mentally absent
My soul is lost somewhere in those mountains I trekked. Whenever I close my eyes, I see those beautiful landscapes and mountains all around — not just the ones I have explored, but the ones I saw from a distance.
Words cannot adequately describe my experience; it surpasses everything. Yes, I am addicted to it. But simply loving this addiction. The thrill, adrenaline rush, endless laughs, and exchanging knowledge with fellow trekkers, locals, and guides, no distractions, no internet, beautiful sunrises and sunsets
Trek is transformative; it’s a life-changing experience.
Upcoming treks — Completing Level 4 Difficulty Trek has given me immense confidence. Now, I am ready to explore some of the beautiful Himalayan Treks — Rupin Pass, Pangarchulla Peak, Kashmir Great Lakes, Everest Base Camp, and of course, Kang Yatse 2.
Next adventure on my list — long awaited Rupin Pass (15,000 ft) Level 4 in May 2023 with Indiahikes always. If anyone is interested in going for a Himalayan trek or listening to trekking stories and experiences, please DM! Would love to plan a trek together.
