I survived the Local Train in Mumbai, India. It was fun.
The pain and suffering that is enjoyed by Millions of Mumbai residents
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It was the rush hour when I was going back from an event in the heart of Mumbai. The train station was crowded. We tried getting on 4 trains but couldn’t. When the train arrives, people jump out of it before the train stops.
I heard that ‘If one doesn’t get out of the train early, he wouldn’t be able to get out at all because the crowd boarding the train will take him inside with them’. Here’s an interesting anecdote a friend from Mumbai told me:
A snacks vendor was inside a crowded train with his huge basket full of snacks. Seeing him in the crowded train commuters got angry and they asked him, “Why the heck are you in this crowded train with your basket?”.
The vendor replied, “Guys, I was just selling my stuff on the station and had no intention of getting on the train but when the train came the crowd around me took me into the train with them.”
So I guess it is wise to get out of the train before the incoming crowd takes you back inside the train.
We saw people climbing onto the top of the train and walking across the train-top one by one like a scene from a Hollywood action movie.
One of the four trains that we had to forgo was a ‘Ladies Special train’. As the name suggests its a special train only for the Ladies.
At the risk of sounding sexist, I must admit, there are fewer female travellers than males for whatever reasons and thus these special trains are usually only half-full.
As much as we would have liked to get onto that train, we couldn’t. So what can one do when he can’t get into a Ladies only train? He can climb to the top of the train. (The rule said men can’t travel inside the train but no one said anything about not being allowed to travel on top of Ladies only trains).
Well, most people love their life a lot to risk it foolishly. But there are some daredevils, who are so confident with their skills that they make their way to the top even as the train speeds out of the station. Try asking the Parkour experts to try it, they would certainly think twice before attempting the climb.
Trains passed one by one and we were still on that station, the crowd only getting bigger with each passing minute and thus making it even harder to get on a train. At last, when one of the trains came I hopped onto the train even before it had fully stopped and finally with much pushing and shoving, I got on the 5th one.
And once inside I was squashed flatter than I already am and the tensile strength of my rib cage was put to test. I was unable to move any part of my body. It was a sausage-fest inside surrounded by pot-bellied strangers all around.
Although I’ve heard of a few travellers worried about being groped in trains, people have been pretty decent to me so far. Considering the ‘close contact’ I was forced to maintain with few people around me in trains, nothing indecent happened so far although it is freaking uncomfortable.
With my experiences in these crowded trains, I have learnt that some extra-extra-deodorant always helps when travelling in crowded trains. Although quite suffocating initially but it serves a greater purpose. It engulfs me in the aroma of my own deodorant and protects me from any unpleasant odour in the crowded trains.I’m sure Russell Peters would gladly agree.
The only few moments that I could move inside the train were the ones when the train stopped at a station and ppl rushed out and into the train. That was the time for me to straighten my neck which I was forced to bend (because of some guy’s hand going across my face, to grab the handle beside my face). Or to tighten ‘my precious bag’ across my shoulders because I was scared it might get torn in this mad rush.
I had heard stories from friends about how one might always prefer to carry extra shirt or slippers in his bag if he is travelling during rush hour because there’s always a risk of getting your shirt torn or your slippers broken/lost in the rush.
I somehow managed to survive the 40 mins long ordeal in the most uncomfortable positions I’ve ever been in. But when I was finally nearing my station I wasn’t able to make my way across to the door. I was stuck in the middle. So I told the people around me that I need to get off and they tried to make way for me but we were jam-packed and unable to move. I was worried that I might not be able to get down and so I held my bag on top of my head and had to use brute force to ram my way through the crowd to get to the door. Apparently it is the only way to move through the crowd.
I was huffing and puffing from all the in-train exhaustion but once on the station, I was totally relieved. I took one last look at the moving train and the people who were desperately trying to cling on to the windows and doors of the train and a few spidermen making their way to the top of the train even as the train sped out of the station and I promised myself, “I ‘ll try to stay away from this experience for as long as possible”.
Although I’m always game for some adventure I’m not a masochist. Even the winter cold of Taiwan mountains which froze our body from head to toe didn’t inflict as much pain and didn’t get so much adrenaline pumping in my body the way this one train ride during the rush hours did.
You don’t read about many Indians scaling the Mount Everest or the nearby Himalayan mountains. Not many Indians have tried adventure sports and even fewer are interested in it as a career path. Although it could be primarily because we have a poorer($$) majority, I believe it is also because we have enough activities in our daily life which provide us with ample dosage of adventure and adrenaline. Mumbai local train is one such activity for all Mumbaikars(the people of Mumbai).
Clearly, hanging onto the door handle of the fast-moving train for your dear life pumps much more adrenaline than climbing up a rock wall with safety ropes and belayers protecting you form the fall.
Similarly, 5 people travelling on a 2 seater bike is adventurous and also a crime(which in fact makes it a much more adventurous and a thrilling experience). Overloaded buses, auto-rickshaws (the tuk-tuks of India) and trains are now just the Indian way of life. Luckily we don’t have overloaded flights yet. Not Yet but I’m sure we’ll find a way to make that happen as well.
India is Incredible for real!
Footnote
Mumbai is a city with 18.4 million people as of 2011. You heard it right. 18 Million. Let me say that again. 18 Million people!!
And about 7.5 Million people travel the Mumbai Local Trains EACH DAY!
Mumbai Local, considered the lifeline of Mumbai, is the most trusted public transport for people of Mumbai. You can read about some incredible facts about the Mumbai Local trains here
Although my personal account might have intimidated you to try out this adventurous experience, once you get the “hang” of it, it is a pretty enjoyable train ride. The people of Mumbai love their local train very much. So much that I’ve heard of people who moved away from Mumbai and missed the local trains the most.
The experience of riding this crowded and the adventurous train might give Mumbaikars a sense of togetherness — kind of like ‘We are all in this suffer-fest together’.
Mumbaikars love their Mumbai so much that the tagline for this city is ‘Aamchi Mumbai’ which translates to ‘Our Mumbai’. And anyone who has been to Mumbai knows that there is a whole different vibe to this city and no one leaves Mumbai hating the city. After all, Mumbai is known as the City of Dreams.
