Fashion and the First World War (1914–1919)
By Kanupriya Goenka, Fashion Business Management, ISDI
Faculty: Ms Belinda Bawa
Fashion and war don’t mix, yet it is true that latter has an indirect influence on the outward appearance of its survivors.
At the start of the First World War, no one could have predicted the upheavals that were about to take place. In-fact, no one thought the war would last longer than a few months. Hence in August 1914, when Germany officially declared war against France, Paris saw no reason to cancel their Autumn show or any subsequent ones.
It was in 1915, that the true extent of the war began to be realized and the fashion houses took heed. Over the course of the next few years, fashion was not determined by the whims of the wealthy, but revolved around the needs of the lower classes.
The absence of a large number of men encouraged women to take over the role that society had traditionally reserved for men. As mothers, wives and daughters were forced to work, often in factories, they demanded clothes that were better suited to their new activities.
Women donned nurses’ overalls or wore trousers in the arms factories, unaware that a whole new way of life was being born. Jumper blouses also became popular because they were highly versatile, allowing for use with several types of clothing.
Another important change in women’s fashion was the rise of the hemline. As large quantities of materials were being consumed for soldier uniform’s, Armour, hats etc, what was available for women’s fashion was hugely effected. Inevitably, as a result of shortage of fabric, in 1915, women’s skirts rose above the ankle, and then by 1916 to mid-calf. With the shift in priorities domestic labor was decreased drastically and clothing that required extensive care and upkeep became increasingly impractical. Evening wear became less common and the longstanding tradition of dressing four times per day was dropped. Women even started wearing breeches and participating in sporting events.
A military look also crept into fashion designs, bringing military-style tunic jackets, belts, and epaulets. Cuts and pockets were added to the designs of women’s day wear. It was at this time that the trench coat was introduced using a chemically processed fine cotton gabardine that was originally used in for farm workers and approved for military use. The trench coat has enjoyed modest popularity since. It is very identifiable with its wide collar, extra fabric at the top of the back, epaulets, and a belt.
The need to mourn the increasing number of dead, visits to the wounded and the general gravity of the hour meant that darker colors became the norm during the First World War. They ushered in a monochrome look that was, at that time, unfamiliar to young women in comfortable circumstances. The color Khaki even appeared on Vogue in 1915.
The biggest change in the design of wartime dress was brought about by Gabrielle Chanel. She designed sporty clothing which were ideal for ‘wartime chic’. Chanel also deigned and development the world famous Jersey Suit. They became the virtue of simplicity. The Chanel suit became known for a “new uniform for afternoon and evening”.
In conclusion, amongst all the loss and devastation of World War I, fashion recorded a more hopeful side. With men away at war, women's traditional roles in society changed and there was in shift in cultural values. Thus, women discovered a new found freedom, both in society and in fashion.
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