Peleș Castle: An Inside Look at the Romanian Royal Residence
“Cradle of the dynasty, cradle of the nation.”
Castelul Peleș, or Peleș Castle in English (it’s pronounced ‘pel-esh’), is nestled in the Carpathian Mountains of Romania, near the city of Sinaia, and is situated on a medieval route linking the regions of Transylvania and Wallachia. Construction of the castle (or, more accurately, palace) started in 1873, with finishing touches completed by 1914, making it one of the newer castles in Europe. Notably, it was also the world’s very first castle to be powered entirely by locally produced electricity! It’s a fabulous little (actually, rather large) gem that definitely deserves a visit if you are planning a trip to Eastern Europe — and if you aren’t planning a trip yet, you should be.
King Carol I of Romania (1839–1914)
Before we can delve into Peleș Castle in all its magnificent glory, we need to take a minute to review the man behind its construction: King Carol I of Romania.
Born Prince Karl Eitel Friedrich Zephyrinus Ludwig of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen (whew, that’s a mouthful), Carol first became the Domnitor, or Ruling Prince, of Romania in 1866, partly thanks to the recommendation of Napoleon III of France (the nephew of that Napoleon) when the previous Domnitor, Alexandru Ioan Cuza, was expelled from the country by its leading noblemen. Carol adopted the Romanian spelling of his name (hence the shift from Karl) and took up residence in the country.
It’s important to note that, at this time, most of Romania’s various regions were loosely, but unofficially, unified. Many of them remained largely under the control and/or significant influence of other European powers and the Ottoman Empire, which plays a big role in what Carol did next.
In 1877, Carol declared Romania a sovereign nation. He then (with some assistance from Russia) defeated the Ottoman Empire the following year in the Russo-Turkish War, which secured Romanian independence. In 1881, with a change to the Romanian constitution officially making it a united kingdom, Carol became the first king of the country.
Before all this drama, Carol had visited the would-be site of Peleș Castle, and, so impressed by the beautiful scenery, he purchased the land in 1872, with construction beginning the next year. After several rejected proposals (they were lacking originality), Carol selected an architect by the name of Johannes Schultz, who combined various European styles with an emphasis on Italian and German features. Additional work was done by Carol Benesch and, later, Karel Liman, producing the final structure you now see. The estimated cost for the construction of Peleș Castle would be about $120 million in the United States today.
The Gardens and Grounds of Peleș Castle
Before acquiring a ticket to go inside the castle (note: there is a basic tour of only the ground level and an extended tour covering more of the castle; the latter is highly recommended), I spent some time wandering around the gardens and grounds of Peleș, awestruck both by the mountain landscapes as well as the impressive sculpture collection, not to mention the exterior of the building itself (the main tower is 217 feet in height). You will find winding staircases, scenic terraces, fountains, stony-faced guard lions, and more. Many of the marble statues you’ll come across are by the Italian sculptor Raffaello Romanelli, including that of King Carol I himself, which stands in front of the palace’s main entrance.
It can be challenging to snap any shots without other tourists in the pictures depending on when you visit, as Peleș is a popular destination for both Romanian and foreign visitors, but it’s certainly not a chore to spend some extra time waiting for the perfect photo opportunity. If it’s a crowded day at Peleș and you have travel companions, it’s not a bad idea to switch off who is waiting in line for tickets while others take their turn exploring the grounds.
An Inside Look at (Some of) Peleș Castle
The construction of Peleș Castle was truly a multi-cultural endeavor, with workers from Romania, Italy, Germany, Hungary, Albania, Greece, Turkey, Poland, Czechoslovakia, France, and England represented. Queen Elisabeth (1843–1916), Carol’s wife, even remarked on this in her journal, writing that
“…you could see hundreds of national costumes and [hear] fourteen languages in which they spoke, sang, cursed and quarreled… a joyful mix of men, horses, cart oxen and domestic buffaloes.”
The castle has a 34,000 square foot plan with over 170 rooms of varying purpose (and 30 bathrooms). Many of these rooms were designed with different themes in mind, drawing from cultures across the world.
One of my personal favorite rooms at Peleș is The Turkish Parlor (Salonul Turcesc), which was used as a smoking lounge for the gentlemen. Thick rugs cover the floor while assorted handmade textiles adorn the walls, and polished copperware from Persia and Anatolia is placed throughout the room, complementing the rich colors and textures of the plush couches and scattered floor pillows. An Ottoman atmosphere is vividly recreated and begs to be enjoyed by all the senses: I personally had to drag myself away from viewing this room in order to continue my tour.
The Playhouse (Sala de Teatru) is also particularly impressive, and it is the site of Romania’s first movie projection in 1906. The rich, golden-hued Louis XIV style room, covered in an abundance of delicate architectural elements and intricately painted wall murals, features a Royal Box and sixty seats for guests and visitors, making it an ideal entertaining spot. Just a few of the notable people who have been fortunate enough to experience Peleș Castle in all its glory include Kaiser Franz Joseph I of Austria-Hungary, United States Presidents Richard Nixon and Gerald Ford, and one of Romania’s most famous and influential musicians, George Enescu, who may have enjoyed the castle’s music room, which is pictured at the beginning of this section.
Perhaps one of the most stunning and magnificent areas in the castle is The Hall of Honor (Holul de Onoare), which, spreading over three levels of the palace, is painted a rich, emerald green and covered in exquisitely carved, dark wooden accents and architectural elements (primarily of high grade European walnut and varied, exotic timbers), with whimsical spiral staircases tucked away in some of its corners. Notably, the stained glass panels are fully retractable, allowing for an influx of fresh air and natural sunshine. This area of the castle wasn’t completed until 1911, but I think it must have been worth the wait; I only wish that pictures did it justice!
Throughout the castle, you will find an expansive and diverse collection of priceless art, furniture, carpets, books, and antiques from all over the world, many of which are best viewed when gently bathed in the sunlight drifting through the detailed and colorful Swiss and German stained glass windows found in most of the palace’s rooms.
The arms and armor collection alone consists of more than 4,000 Eastern and Western ceremonial, war, and hunting pieces, spanning over four centuries of history. Notably, there is a complete set of Maximilian-style armor for a horse and rider on display in The Grand Armory (Sala Mare de Arme), in addition to pieces used by Carol himself in the Romanian victory over the Ottomans in 1878. The Small Armory (Sala Mica de Arme) predominantly exhibits Oriental pieces of Arab, Indo-Persian, and Ottoman origin.
Meanwhile, the painting collection, scattered throughout the palace, numbers hundreds of pieces from artists across the globe. In addition, there is a notable timepiece collection of over 50 clocks and watches of varying typology, many of them acquired by Carol himself. Visitors can also view some of the ceramic collection, which consists of over 5,000 pieces of tile and faience, as well as porcelain decorative arts, or they can enjoy the extensive silver and metal collection, which is in excess of 5,500 pieces. Finally, the impressive glass collection at Peleș Castle highlights some 1,500 objects assembled over many years from across the world. None of this includes the more “general” furnishings and accents of the palace, such as the Murano-crystal chandeliers, Cordoba-leather covered walls, and priceless chairs, couches, tables, carpets, and more that are found throughout the estate.
While the majority of the castle’s overall collection was initially established and cultivated by the Romanian royal family in the early 20th century, the Peleș National Museum has more recently played an important and ongoing role in the preservation and further development of the palace’s belongings, especially after the political upheaval of 1947. King Michael I of Romania (1921–2017) was forced to abdicate, and the Communist Party seized all royal property, including Peleș. Eventually, after the December 1989 Revolution, the estate became a heritage site, and, in 2006, it was returned to Michael. The castle is currently on loan from the royal family to the Romanian state.
Some Final Notes
Whether you want to see where some of Netflix’s A Christmas Prince (2017) or Hallmark’s A Princess For Christmas (2011) were filmed (I’m not kidding — their location scouts clearly had great taste) or to experience a beautiful European palace with important art and history within its walls, you can’t go wrong with Peleș Castle. It is a must-see not only if you’re in Romania, but if you are ever in Europe at all: make it a destination.
Bring cash! At the time of publication in March 2018, tickets can only be purchased with cash (Romanian lei). Prices vary depending on any discounts (student, senior citizen, etc. — ID is needed), whether you are doing the basic or extended tour, and whether or not you want to purchase the tokens to allow photography and/or (which I definitely recommend doing). Any leftover cash can be spent at the market outside the castle or at the nearby restaurants.
Keep in mind that the last entry for Peleș Castle is typically 4:15pm (and you must have purchased your ticket no later than 4pm, at which time the ticket office closes), but this allotted 45-minute window doesn’t allow for a thorough and enjoyable tour of the castle and its grounds. You should plan to arrive with at least a full hour, if not more, to dedicate to the interior of Peleș if you are only visiting the ground floor. For the extended tour, allow at least an hour and a half.
On a busy day during the summer, you can expect to spend upwards of 30 minutes waiting in line to purchase an entrance ticket, so factor this in on top of the time you should spend actually touring the castle. Always err on the side of allotting too much time for an activity rather than too little!
You should also remember to check the open days for the castle ahead of time, as there are seasonal changes in the schedule. Typically, during the summer (mid-May through mid-September), Peleș is closed only on Monday. During the winter (mid-September through mid-May), it is closed on Monday and Tuesday. Some days also only offer the basic, ground floor tour, so if you want to see more of the castle, be sure to come on a day when the extended, optional tour is on the program.
Peleș Castle is typically closed through all of November for annual cleaning and restoration work.
Finally, wear shoes that are comfortable for walking. It’s a hilly area (you’re in the Carpathian Mountains, after all) with cobblestone or otherwise rough/uneven streets around the castle. You’ll also be required to put slips/covers on over your shoes when you enter the palace, in order to protect its integrity, so be prepared to look ultra-fashionable and snap some silly pictures of your feet if you can briefly tear yourself away from your gorgeous surroundings.
For more information, please visit the official site for Peleș Castle. It translates pretty well into English via whatever translator add-on you may use.
Thank you to Gabriel Boie of Rebellis Photography for allowing me to use some of his pictures of the interior of Peleș Castle.
