After 2 months of living in Hawaii now, I decided it was time to start learning to surf. Ilja and I rode our bikes to Waiks. This was my first time riding a bike in forever and it immediately began with going down the steep hill we live on. The whole way down I had so much anxiety because I’m such a klutz, I would be one to run into the pole or fall over. Buuuuut we made it in one piece.
We rented our boards, which were only $5 and hour!!! Then, Ilja showed me some basics in the sand, like how to stand and how to paddle. Then we hit the water!!!
At first we swam out there and watched some other surfers catching waves. It didn’t take long for me to start trying.
It seems so simple, but timing is everything. You begin paddling once you see a good wave about two board lengths behind. Once it gets closer you paddle quicker until you’re on top of the wave, then without thinking, you’ve got to move up into the stance in one motion.
Slowly, after many falls in the water, I started riding some waves on my knees. this helped me start getting a feel for what to do. The times I tried to stand would be too early or too late.
It had been about an hour and was starting to get dark so we decided to catch a few last waves and head in. On my last attempt, Ilja helped push my board up for me and I stood up and rode the wave!!! I was on a high the rest of the night, even biking uphill home.
I’m so so so excited to start regularly practicing and getting decent at surfing. It’s so nice to be out on the water, it almost makes you forget how tiring it actually is.