One Day in Suwon, South Korea: Home of Hwaseong Fortress

Kaylie Szarek
4 min readNov 8, 2023

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After about an hour-long journey south of Korea’s capital city, I stepped out at Suwon Station. The streets were quiet. Much quieter than the metropolis I had just left behind. The atmosphere felt much more suburban than anywhere I had been in Seoul.

On a sunny Saturday in November, I had made my way to Suwon in order to visit the Hwaseong Fortress. Constructed in the 1700s by King Jeonjgo to guard the tomb of one of the king’s fathers, simply speaking, it’s an enormous wall that runs throughout the city.

The air was chilled, but the sun prevented it from feeling abrasive. The autumn leaves were still clinging desperately to the trees, but it was clear that winter’s arrival was imminent.

It was one of those days where everyone seemed to be out and about. Whether it was tourists visiting or locals enjoying their day off, there was an abundance of energy in the air.

While walking along the wall, I encountered four Korean elders who asked me to take a picture for them. They asked where I was from and one of the men excitedly shared with me that his son was living in New York City.

I told them I had lived there for a time, but I was originally from Tennessee. “The home of country music!” one said. Then came the classic question, “Do you like country music?”

The honest answer is…yes. Well, some. It depends. I told them that I loved Dolly Parton and they all voiced their agreement. Loving Dolly Parton might be the one thing that unites us all.

Later in the day, I walked to a cafe just up the street from the palace called 7209. The space was small with maybe only around five tables. It was decorated with numerous little curios and knick knacks you might expect to find in your grandparents house.

Christmas decorations had also been placed around the room to celebrate the season. I ordered a salt cream coffee with a chocolate brownie that felt like a perfect accompaniment to the Christmas music playing in the background.

I sat there journaling for a few hours and felt a sense of peace. There was something about the place that felt like home to me. It was a feeling I think I needed at the start of the holiday season.

Christmas is a holiday I have always spent with my family. Spending time with them during the holidays are some of my fondest childhood memories.

This year would be the first Christmas I would spend alone. In fact, it was one of my only reservations about moving to Korea for a whole year.

Although the city of Suwon could not be more different from the place I grew up, throughout the day I encountered reminders of the town I had once called home.

Seven thousand miles away from all I’d ever known, a lingering thought grabbed hold of my mind and refused to let it go. Maybe, I thought, this place could be home too.

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