Medium Moda: Proenza Schouler FW16

The Ties that Bind

photos courtesy

These days, the fashion circus is rife with so many sideshows that even the most inspiring of assortments stands to benefit from some of “that old razzle-dazzle”. Case in point: Proenza Schouler’s most recent “straight-to-market” offerings. The brand’s helming duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough wooed the fashion press this season via a declaration that fashion’s hectic calendar had compelled them to develop a straight-from-the-runway-to-the-store capsule-within-collection that included their newest handbag style, the “Hava” (a ladylike homage to the Chanel 2.55). Those of us who have spent time in a design studio know that what the P.S. kids cooked-up was more of a duplicate sample-run, rather than a full on early production of the collection: in the most ironic plot-twist this writer has ever seen, they’ve managed to basically hold a sample sale in which runway pieces go for full asking price…not a bad hustle! Not that they needed it, as they showed one of their most timely collections to date: laced-tie details took dress-shaped coats, jackets, and dresses to a edgy-arty place, while mock-turtle necklines assured that an icy modesty prevailed. The recently departed contemporary art icon Ellsworth Kelly’s influence could be seen in dresses constructed from reconfigured, paint-dabbed bands of fabric, an elevated craft technique the Proenza team has engaged previously to similar success. Flourishes of this nature imbued the collection with a fascinating energy while compromising none of its wearability. For this reason and more, whether you choose to buy it now or later, it’s sure to fly off shelves. -Kibwe Chase-Marshall

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