Pastel hot pot, enamel hot pot, want a wave of luxurious ancient court hot pot?

Kim Kiln
6 min readJan 4, 2023

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If good wine represents a hero, and tea represents a scholar, then what best represents us?

The answer turned out to be Hot Pot! ! Why is this?

Hot pot, known as “gudong soup” in ancient times, got its name from the sound of “gudong” when food is put into boiling water.

According to research, there was a hot pot in the Warring States Period, and people used clay pots as pots at that time.

汉代分格鼎

Evolved to the Tang Dynasty, the hot pot was also called “warm pot”. The poem “Ask Liu Nineteen” by the poet Bai Juyi vividly described the scene of people eating hot pots at that time.

In the Song Dynasty, there was a custom of “warming winter” among the people. “Dongjing Menghualu” records: In October, when charcoal is put into the stove, the folks hold a stove meeting. At that time, eating hot pot gradually became a folk custom. Every year on the first day of October in the lunar calendar, there is a stove-warming meeting. Eat hot pot and barbecue to warm up, and everyone will fight against the cold winter together.

Lin Hong, a literati in the Song Dynasty, wrote a book “Shan Jia Qing Gong”, which specifically wrote about how to cook fruits, vegetables, and animals in the mountains: Lin Hong caught a hare when it snowed heavily in the mountains, put a small charcoal stove on the table, and set it up. Put it in the soup pot, cut the rabbit meat into thin slices and eat it. The dipping sauce is prepared with wine, sauce, pepper, and cinnamon. It tastes delicious. Taking the snow scene at that time, this way of eating is given the literary name of “Puxia Gong”. In fact, it is the current hot pot!

By the Qing Dynasty, the hot pot was not only popular among the people but also became a famous “palace dish”. According to the “Sandi File” of the imperial dining menu of the Qing Palace, Qianlong would eat more than 200 meals of various pots a year. For breakfast, there are red and white duck with bird’s nest, hot pot with red and white duck, fried chicken, fried meat, and sauerkraut hot pot, and for dinner, hot pot with bird’s nest and duck, hot pot with pheasant, hot pot with lotus seeds and eight treasure duck, etc.

Food requires beautiful utensils. The Qing Dynasty was the peak period of the development of arts and crafts in my country, and the hot pot was of course also extraordinary.

The texture of court hot pot in the Qing Dynasty was mostly sterling silver, silver plated with gold, copper, tin, iron, and other materials. There are two basic forms: one is the combined type, which consists of five parts: a pot, a stove bracket, a stove ring, a stove plate, and an alcohol bowl. The other is a pot with a stove, and a charcoal fire is burned in the stove, which can boil water, raw fish, raw meat, vegetables, etc. Can be cooked in boiling water.

清光绪银寿字火锅

In the Palace Museum, there is a silver hot pot used by Empress Dowager Cixi. The closed lid of the hot pot is carved with a hollow “卐” pattern, and the body of the pot is covered with gold and silver circles. Meaning “Longevity and longevity”. This pot is exquisite in materials, the finest in workmanship, and perfect in shape. There are clear traces of charcoal in the bottom of the pot, which shows that its owner will use it from time to time.

There are also hot pots with textures such as enamel and porcelain. These rich eating utensils all reflect the luxury and delicacy of court life.

清晚期掐丝珐琅团花纹菱花式火锅

Cloisonné enamel also known as cloisonné, commonly known as “enamel blue”, is a kind of soft flat copper wire that is pinched into various patterns and welded on the copper tire shape, and then the enamel The color glaze is filled in the pattern and fired into the utensils. Because it was popular in the Jingtai period of the Ming Dynasty, the production techniques were relatively mature, and the enamel glaze used was mostly blue, so it was named “Cloisonne”.

During the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty (1736–1796), industries such as cloisonne, carved lacquer, and gold lacquer inlay achieved unprecedented development. In the fourth year of Qianlong’s reign, Liang Shaowen, an enamel artist, was recruited from Guangzhou, and Wang Shixiong, an artist from Yangzhou, was invited to enter the palace to make enamelware. During this period, cloisonne products can be seen everywhere in the palace. From small tent hooks used on the bed to large screens, even pagodas as high as buildings, as well as daily necessities, tables, and chairs, beds, wine utensils, inkstones, caskets, pen holders, architectural decorations, religious supplies, etc., everything is prepared.

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清咸丰粉彩火锅

Pastel is one of the varieties of overglaze colors. Compared with five colors, it is also called soft color. It was created in the late Kangxi period and matured in the Yongzheng and Qianlong dynasties.

Pastel is used to express light and shade in a color painting so that each color has different levels of change. It is said in “Yin Liu Zhai Shuo Porcelain” that “soft color is also known as pastel color, which means that the color is slightly lighter and evenly powdered, hard color is luxurious and deep, and pastel color is gorgeous and elegant.” The painting process of pastel color first Uses arsenic-containing “glass white” as the base; the color material is blended with rue oil.

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清姚文瀚绘紫光阁赐宴图

According to legend, Qianlong often set up more than 500 tables with hot pots for banquets. In addition to the common mutton, there is also wild game such as pheasant, roe meat, and deer tail. According to records, he held a “Thousands of Seniors Banquet” in the palace on the first month of the first year of Jiaqing. More than 1,550 hot pots were served at the banquet, and more than 5,000 people were invited to taste it, making it the largest hot pot feast in history.

Some cultural celebrities in modern times also have a special liking for hot pots. The celebrity Hu Shi loves Huizhou hot pot very much. When entertaining guests at home, his wife usually cooks Huizhou hot pot carefully for the guests. Liang Shiqiu, a famous writer, described his deep impression of Huizhou hot pot and Hu Shi’s preference for Huizhou hot pot in a memoir entitled “Mr. Hu Shi’s Two or Three Things”.

I love collecting and love hot pot more, this cold winter, do you want a wave of “gudong soup”?

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Kim Kiln
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