The Shinto & Japan’s most sacred shrine
To understand Japan’s Shinto religion, it is best to compare the traditions of Shinto to Japan’s practice of Buddhism, plus to examine the special Shinto shrine at Ise, and by doing so gain greater insight into spiritual Japan. The Shinto religion stems back many thousands of years and is animistic in concept; it is still practiced today though often in tandem with the philosophies of Buddhism.
Shinto and Buddhism side by side
Shinto and Buddhism are the most popular practiced religions in Japan. Though the two often overlap and many Japanese consider themselves members of both, they are distinct religions with unique origins and traditions.
Shinto as a state religion developed in several stages. This long process can be traced throughout Japan’s historical ages: Jomon (14,500–300 BC), Yayoi (300 BC–300 AD), Kofun (300–538 AD), Asuka (538–710 AD) and Nara (710–794 AD).
In prehistoric Jomon there is no evidence of ethics or a logical story that explained the genesis. Their story of existence was only based on unrelated myths, local spirits and deities.
During the sedentary society of the Yayoi the importance of shamanistic habits became important and saw the strengthening of tribal leaders and early kings’ authority.
Throughout the Kofun era only the political elite had the privilege and duty to conduct important shamanistic liturgy, and all the major clans claimed to originate from a great deity.
It was however the leaders from Asuka and Nara that embraced Shinto as a religion of state, the essence of which is still practiced today. Starting as a wide, unpremeditated range of colourful myths, Shinto was partially reshaped to grant the emperor his sacred nature and status.
According to traditional wisdom, Buddhism was introduced in Japan via Paekche in Korea in the sixth century AD. Nevertheless, the road taken by this religion is far more complicated.
Buddhism appeared in the Ganges Valley in northeast India during the sixth or fifth century BC. No sacred texts existed in this early period. Because of this, the Buddhist dogma was not unified, but evolved into numerous sects that held opposing mystical positions.
From India Buddhism spread in many directions, including to China, and was adopted by the Han dynasty in the first century AD. The first Chinese translation of the Buddhist scriptures appeared in 148 AD. The Chinese emperors understood that Buddhism could enhance their authority, as Buddhist practices were assimilated with the already existing Confucian and Taoist traditions.
Chinese Buddhism reached the Korean Peninsula, where again it was altered by regional beliefs, and finally entered Japan via Paekche in either in 538 or 552 AD.*[1]
However complete adoption of Buddhism on a national scale took another 150 years. During this timeline various competing sects were active and preaching in Japan. They originated either from the Tang dynasty or from one of the three Korean kingdoms.
Finally, this complex admixture of Buddhist beliefs was further combined with the local Shinto creating what is a uniquely Japanese two-tiered religious structure. Both Buddhism and Shinto worked in tandem to support the hierarchical system of Japanese imperial rule. This wealth of ideas from both Buddhist philosophy and Shinto mythology stimulated the cultural and artistic explosion of Japan’s classical antiquity.
Shinto practitioners believe that every living thing — and even inanimate objects like a mountain, lake, tree, waterfall and even rock — is animate and possesses a spirit. These are called kami and the most important ones are worshipped by humans. In the Japanese Shinto religion, unlike other known ancient beliefs, the sun is worshipped as a goddess (Amaterasu) and the moon as a God (Amaterasu brother Tsukiyomi no Mikato).
Animistic beliefs stem back to the earliest times of human development and have lasted throughout Japan’s pre-history to the present day. Buddhism isn’t a theistic religion at all; rather, humans who have achieved enlightenment, like the Buddha, himself, are venerated. Buddhism is a philosophy on life, with a clearly developed doctrine and rules.
There are many popular, conflicting yet coexisting Buddhist sects in Japan, such as Zen, Pureland and Shingon. Each emphasises different teachings of the Buddha, however there are certain truths that remain consistent throughout all. Shinto is more ambiguous, with no religious texts or set doctrine. As a polytheistic religion it allows more freedom for believers to worship the kami or other deities of their choosing.
The difference between a shrine and a temple in Japan is the religion it represents; shrine (jinja) are Shinto sites of worship and temples (tera) are Buddhist. There are aesthetic and architectural differences between the two. Shinto shrines usually have a large gate (torii) at the entrance, which are often decorated vermillion and guarded by a fox, dog or other animal statue. Temples tend to be a more reserved in their outside colour schemes, but interiors dedicated to the Buddha are often filled with ornate gold statues and decorations. With the temple there is usually a large incense burner out front for purification. Shinto shrines have a water basin where visitors wash their hands and mouth before entering.
Practices at shrines and temples also differ slightly. People typically pray silently at Buddhist temples, though occasionally the more devout will chant mantras. At Shinto shrines people must ring a bell and clap their hands to rouse the gods and spirits and to pray. Japanese people celebrate both Shinto and Buddhist holidays with an equal amount of reverence and enthusiasm. Japan’s three greatest annual festivals — the Kanda Matsuri, Tenjin Matsuri, and Gion Matsuri — are all Shinto. The busiest travel of the year, during which families return home to pray to the spirits of their ancestors, is the Buddhist holiday Obon. Similar holidays and festivals happen around the country year-round.
The most devout Buddhists may become monks or nuns and dedicate their lives to the religion, forgoing most worldly possessions. The Shinto priesthood was once only hereditary, but these days anyone in Japan, both male and female, can pass an exam to become a priest. Buddhist monks and nuns tend to live a more ascetic life whereas Shinto priests typically live more mainstream lives and simply officiate at shrine ceremonies.
Buddhists believe in a cycle of death and rebirth that continues until a person achieves an enlightened state. Shinto tradition holds that after death a person’s kami passes on to another world and watches over their descendants. This is why ancestor worship is still an important part of modern-day Japanese culture.
From a metaphysical perspective, Shinto influenced Japanese Buddhism by offering it a more collectivistic trait, while Buddhism came with a complex system of ethics that was completely lacking in the Shinto teleology. The religious syncretism encouraged a remarkable social cohesion which was behind the success of the imperial system, but it also heavily inspired and transformed all Japan’s philosophical and artistic forms of expression. Japan managed to adapt the foreign components to its own particular needs. At the end of this procedure, the unique and authentic character of the Country of the Rising Sun emerged.
A Shrine that Embodies Shinto
The Ise Grand Shrine or Ise Jingu is a complex of over 125 shrines located in Ise City, Mie Prefecture. Whilst the site does not hold the same degree of significance as Mecca to all Islam, it is one of Japan’s most sacred sites and is considered to be the spiritual home of the Japanese and its indigenous Shinto religion.
There is an Inner and Outer shrine that together make up the Ise Grand Shrine. The Inner Shrine is formally known as Kotai Jingu and enshrines Shinto’s most important deity — the Sun Goddess (Amaterasu Omikami). The Inner Shrine is believed to have been established over 1,800 years ago. Its main buildings resemble ancient rice granaries and are built in an architectural style that shows almost no influence from the Asian mainland since they predate the introduction of Buddhism.
The Ise Grand Shrine covers 5,500 hectares and is roughly the same size as centre of Paris. More than 1,500 rituals are conducted here yearly to pray for the prosperity of the Imperial family, the prosperity of the Japanese people and for a huge harvest. The Ise Grand Shrine is centred around its main shrines of Naiku (Inner Shrine) and Geku (Outer Shrine).
The Inner Shrine is believed to date from the 3rd Century AD. It is held in higher reverence than the Outer Shrine since the inner sanctuary is the home of the “Yata-no-Kagami” — the Sacred Mirror of the Emperor. In all there are three key imperial regalia, this mirror plus a sword, called “Kusunagi-no-Tsurigi”, housed at the Atsuta Shrine in Nagoya and a green jade jewel referred to as the “Yasakani-no-Magatama” that is stored in the central shrine of the Tokyo Imperial Palace. Together these three items represent positive traits that an emperor should have towards his people: valour, wisdom and benevolence.
According to legend these treasures previously belonged to Amaterasu, the sun goddess, who was forced into hiding from her brother Susa-noo, the god of storms. Susa-noo plunged the world into darkness. Both the mirror and the comma-shaped Magatama jewel were used to lure Amaterasu out of hiding. Later Sasa-noo gave his sister the Kusanagi sword as a sign of repentance. Legend says the three items were brought to Earth by Amaterasu’s grandson Ninigi-no-Mikito, who is regarded as an ancestor of the imperial family. The three sacred items have since been passed down from emperor to emperor.
The Outer Shrine of the Ise Grand Shrine is located about 6 kilometres from the Inner Shine and dates from the 5thCentury AD. It is dedicated to Toyokuke Okami, the goddess of food, agriculture, clothing and shelter. The goddess Toyokuke Okami joins Amaterasu as her provider of companionship and sacred foods. She blesses all with abundant harvests and is the guardian of well-being, providing three essentials of human life: clothes, food and shelter. As with the Inner Shrine, only senior priests and the emperor may enter inside.
During the Edo period (1603–1867 AD) it is estimated that one out of ten Japanese conducted an Okage Mairi pilgrimage to Ise Grand Shrine. Pilgrimage secured prosperity and spiritual benefits. Since the shrine has always been considered a sanctuary, pilgrims could make the journey without being subject to any security checkpoints, for to impede their journey was considered a sacrilege. The two main shrines of Ise are joined by a pilgrimage road that passes through the old entertainment district of Furuichi. Today pilgrims to the Ise Shrine first visit Geku (Outer Shine), followed by Naiku (Inner Shrine) with a pilgrim road stretching 6 kilometres between the two shrines.
At the Ise Shrine, the supreme priestess, the saishu, ranks even above the supreme Shinto priest (dai-guji), who has the highest rank at other Shinto shrines. In imperial times the supreme priestess was always an unmarried princess. Today the role is still filled by a female member of the imperial family. The current high priestess of the shrine is Emperor Naruhito’s sister, Sayako Kuroda. The supreme priestess leads the most important religious ceremonies of the Ise Shrine, serving as an intermediary between the gods and worshippers. Along with the other Shinto priests, she prays to the sun goddess Amaterasu for the health of the emperor and peace for Japan and the world.
The shrine is unique in that its buildings are rebuilt every 20 years. This 20-year refurbishment is known as the Shikinen Sengu started during the reign of Empress Jito (687–697 AD). Naiku, Geku, plus 14 other buildings, the Uji Bridge and the torii gateway are rebuilt exactly to the existing designs next to the existing structures. Each rebuilding programme takes 8 years and re-energises the power of the shrines. The pieces of the old shrines are then redistributed to shrines across Japan where they are incorporated into the walls there to instil new energy. 2013 was the 62nd and most recent rebuilding programme at the Ise Shrine.
In addition, other structures at the complex are not entirely neglected for 43 of them are rebuilt every 40 years. All of this reconstruction, done using traditional tools and no nails, requires a massive 12,000 cypress logs. Most of these come from 200-year-old trees so as to achieve the necessary sizes required.
A special ceremony is then conducted to transfer the kami (god of the shrine) back to its new home. The process of 2013 rebuilding for the 124 other shrines located in Ise was completed with a cost to the Japanese government of over US$500 million, which was paid by a combination of donations and tax dollars.
The rebuilding process symbolizes the Shinto belief in the renewal of nature and the impermanence of all things. In addition, the process passes down the skills of shinmei-zukuri architecture to the next generation of Ise residents, meaning that the shrine will be rebuilt every 20 years for generations to come.
The main torii shrine gate which leads to the famous Uji Bridge is a highlight of any visit. The wooden bridge gives access to the Naiku shrine and is 102 metres long and 8.2 metres wide. At either end stand huge torii gates (7.3 m), traditional markers which separate the sacred space from the outside world. Seven million people cross the bridge each year.
Worshippers purify themselves by washing in the local Isuzugawa River. When visiting the shrines pilgrims offer prayers for the imperial family, Japan as a nation, and for their own needs. Even the emperor makes an annual visit. The Ise Grand Shine has a twice-yearly festival, the Kagura festival, held each April and September when there are performances of traditional Japanese theatre, poetry, dancing and music, as well as flower arrangement displays.
*[1] Buddhism was introduced to Japan in the year 538 AD or 552 AD and was promoted by the ruling class. According to tradition in 552 AD the king of Paikche in Korea sent priests to convert Japan to Buddhism.
