Lyocell, A Biodegradable Future
When we think of fabric, most people tend to imagine cotton, leather, rayon, and polyester. However, there is a wide variety of fabrics that exist today. One example is Lyocell. Lyocell is created from reclaiming wood pulp, turning it into a liquid, and extracting fine fibers or threads from the pulp. It is one-part natural fiber and one-part man-made fiber. Lyocell has many redeeming and unique qualities however, one of the most important is its Eco-friendly benefits.
Lyocell is created by following a series of detailed steps. To create the “pulp”, wood from birch, eucalyptus, and oak trees is sent to a mill where it is chopped, softened, and turned into a wet pulp. Next the cellulose is dissolved at high heat and filtered. From there, it is put through the spinning process. The cellulose is then forced through a spinneret, “the spinneret looks like a shower head, so when the cellulose is forced through it, long fiber strands come out.” (lyocell.info, 2019) The fibers are then dried and lubricated and finally, carded. Carding involves taking the tow, or dried and finished fiber strands, crimping, compressing, and combing them. The final process involves “rolling the carded fiber strands and sending them to a fabric mill.” (lyocell.info, 2019)
Given its botanical origin, Lyocell fibers are compostable and biodegradable. The production process of Lyocell omits destructive byproducts, utilizing non-toxic, recyclable amine oxide. The tree farming process does not involve irrigation or pesticides. Lastly, the process of producing of Lyocell is short. The entire process clocks in around two and a half hours! It requires less water and energy, making it a comparable source to other man-made fibers.
There are several advantages to using Lyocell as well as disadvantages. Some of the advantages include high moisture absorbency, great for sensitive skin, natural elasticity, durability, and anti-bacterial qualities. Disadvantages include poor dye absorbency and presently, Lyocell is not as cost efficient as other fibers like cotton. However, I believe the pros outweigh the cons. The con of cost efficiency may even improve over time.
Having experience with the fiber and fabric, I can attest to its comfort and aesthetic. Another feature is its ability to hold its luster over time. Sateen is a type of cotton that has a satin like finish. With cotton, this fades over time, dimming the appearance of the quality. Some Lyocell weaves have a feather-weight quality and consistency. This is a feature that has lent itself positively to sports as well as active wear.
A brand name for Lyocell is Tencel. The versatility of Lyocell lends itself for use to create items like t-shirts, trousers, and bedding. The Eco-benefits of using Lyocell on global scale would be game changing. It is completely biodegradable which, in terms of sustainability, would prove to be most advantageous for the future of our planet. The duality of being a natural source turned into a man-made fiber is perhaps, the greatest combination. (Visser, 2019) Looking to the future, I am pushing for the Lyocell revolution.
Sources:
Cell Solution Germany Lyocell Plant
Lennart Larsen — https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_KJfLzWGGw
Lyocell, The Fabric of the Future. Lyocell.info, 2019
Visser, Miriam. Lyocell fabric made from wood. Design-4-sustainability.com, 05 May, 2010
http://www.design-4-sustainability.com/materials/8-lyocell-fabric-made-from-wood
Sterbenz, Christina. How Tencil Compares to Cotton, businessinsider.com. September 2015
https://www.businessinsider.com/how-tencel-compares-to-cotton-2015-9
