The morning sun beat down on the reddish earth as I walked up dusty road to the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Seven Sorrows of Akono, Mbalmayo .This impressive Gothic-style church, constructed of stone and concrete, dominates the small town, its twin minarets piercing the blue sky. Erected in the early 1930s during the French colonial era, it remains a significant landmark of the region.
Nestled in the lush landscape of the Centre Region, the cathedral, affectionately known as Notre-Dame d’Akono by locals, is more than a place of worship. It stands as a testament to Cameroon’s distinctive cultural fabric and historical legacy. As I approached the entrance, the grand wooden doors stood ajar, inviting me inside. Upon entering the nave, I was met with a cool stillness that provided respite from the scorching sun outside. Sunbeams filtered through biblical scenes depicted in stained glass, casting a rainbow of gleaming jewel tones onto the granite columns and marble altars. Above, the arched ceilings soared high, ornately crafted with figures of Saints.
As I tread down the central aisle, the sound of my shoes clicking against the stone floor echoed through the cavernous space.The air was perfumed with the scent of incense and punctuated by soft whispers of prayers. The church was nearly empty, save for a handful of worshippers scattered among rows of wooden pews, immersed in prayer and contemplation. Here, the faithful congregate to seek solace and find strength in their faith. At the heart of the church stands the elaborately carved Baroque altar, crafted from stone and gilded in gold leaf. I found myself in awe of the grandeur, yet struck by the placid stillness within. Despite the European influences, the cathedral remained unmistakably Cameroonian, the air heavy and fragrant with the scent of exotic tropical palms surrounding the altar.
In a secluded alcove, a life-sized statue of the Virgin Mary with Cameroonian features, serene and dark-skinned face caught my attention to the left of the altar.Her robes cascaded to the floor, and her delicate face looked down with an expression of benevolence. The statue was a peculiar, a nod to local culture that had permeated the colonial symbols. Bathed in jewel-blue and ruby-red light from a nearby stained glass window, the statue was a sight to behold. Indeed, a treasure trove of local history, the church walls were arrayed with colored murals and frescoes that displayed biblical scenes and the history of the local community. A stained glass window featuring the nativity scene portrayed local wise men in vibrant dashikis offering kolanuts to the infant Jesus.
As I sat in a pew, marveling at the soaring architecture, a local man joined me. He shared that his family had a generations-old tradition of visiting the cathedral. Although not a devout Catholic himself, he frequented the church to appreciate its profound spiritual significance and architectural beauty. The cathedral had seen christenings, weddings, and funerals of his ancestors and remained a community hub. Stepping back into the blazing sunshine, I took one last look at the majestic façade, twin towers, and carved stone archways. While Cameroon’s abundant wildlife and natural attractions may entice, do not miss this architectural anomaly rising from the bushes. Marvel at its striking juxtaposition of French grandeur and Cameroonian soul. Notre-Dame d’Akono, a silent sentinel watching over the red earth and its people.
P.S.
For those seeking a wholesome spiritual journey, the Grotto of Akok Betoé and Marian Sanctuary, Mbalmayo are nearby and make excellent additions to your itinerary.
