Ghanaian Fashion on the Global Stage
In Black Panther, Marvel’s world famous Superhero movie, audiences were dazzled by the strikingly beautiful outfits worn by the cast of superstars. The colors and styles of the costumes were vibrant, fresh and undeniably African. The film paid homage to a range of traditional African fashion styles and influences; from Tuareg fashion in North Africa to Zulu fashion in South Africa. It’s no surprise then that arguably one of the most famous fabrics of African origin, Kente cloth from Ghana, was highlighted as part of the royal garment for T’Challa, the films charismatic main character. When T’challa walked out confidently in his dark robe with trimmings of brilliant Kente cloth, he underlined the beauty, historic symbolism and influence that this uniquely Ghanaian fabric has had on international fashion. Today, diverse fashion designers and stylists of Ghanaian origin are building on this foundation and developing a vibrant fashion scene that has caught the eye of people all over the world.
Indeed, while Kente may be identified as Ghana’s most prominent fashion export, the country’s international fashion influence runs even deeper. Ruth Carter, the veteran Hollywood Costume Designer who created the look for Black Panther, explained that she sent research teams to Ghana before making the film and was greatly inspired by local textile dealers in particular. Additionally, major celebrities from Beyonce to Jidenna to Alicia Keys have developed styles and worn outfits influenced by Ghanaian fashion. Perhaps, it’s because of Ghanaian fashion’s generous use of bright colors and bold prints that have become popular around the world. Or maybe it’s because of the ‘African Renaissance’ that has seen younger generations, especially of African descent, become increasingly interested in and influenced by African popular culture and style. Nonetheless, it’s easy to see that Ghanaian fashion and style is hotter than ever.
Within the past couple of years, international fashion houses and established designers have featured Ghanaian designs in striking ways that have stirred up the fashion world. Both Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga released a line of tote bags that were designed to look exactly like what have been affectionately called “Ghana Must Go” bags. For those in the dark, Ghana Must Go bags are one of the most widely used bags for travelling and carrying large goods in West Africa (as well as in the African Diaspora). Originally used by Ghanaians migrating from Nigeria in the late Seventies (the reason for its interesting name) Ghana must Go bags are inexpensive, made from Jute and have an unmistakable multi colored stripe design. On the other hand, The Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga jute tote bags were extremely expensive (going for over $2,000) and were only differentiated by the logos of the respective fashion houses.
Another example of international designers ‘borrowing’ heavily from Ghanaian (and West African fashion in general) is Stella McCartney’s Ankara Spring/Summer collection. The collection created by the award winning British fashion designer, featured outfits made out of vibrant Ankara print fabrics. Ankara print is a light cotton fabric that features bright multi-colored traditional patterns. Usually inexpensive and used for casual or work wear, Ankara is a widely popular fabric used by West African women of all ages and backgrounds.
Beyond clothes, Modern fashion houses in the west have been inspired by traditional Ghanaian style in making accessories such as jewelry, bags and shoes. An example of this cross-cultural adaptation is Valentino’s Wooden Thong Sandals which are identical to traditional Ashanti slippers called Ahenema. Ahenema, an Akan word meaning children of Kings, is a type of traditional slipper that has been worn by Ashanti chiefs and people for generations. The slipper is often made out of wood, leather and other animal skins. Interestingly, the Valentino Thong sandals share similar features including the distinct curved wooden sole, leather straps and ornamental pieces that distinguish Ahenema from other types of slippers. Indeed, debates around cultural appropriation notwithstanding, it is clear that the international fashion world is looking at and taking inspiration from unique fashion scenes in African countries like Ghana. Blending traditional African colors and aesthetics with contemporary cuts and techniques creates fresh looks that are in high demand across the world.
With the increased attention on Ghanaian style, it’s no surprise that Ghanaian designers have also taken the fashion world by storm. One could confidently claim that some of the most important personalities in fashion today are Ghanaian or of Ghanaian descent. Ghanaian born Edward Enninful is the current editor in chief of British Vogue and is widely acknowledged as a pioneer in international fashion circles. With a career spanning more than three decades and several awards (including an OBE for fashion) Edward Enninful has remained one of the most elite stylists in the world, working with all the top magazines like Vogue, I-D and W magazine as well as supermodels like Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Tyra Banks. The current artistic director for Louis Vuitton, Ghanaian American Virgil Abloh, also created unprecedented buzz among young fashion enthusiasts through his work with superstar Kanye West as well as with his own popular fashion label Off White. Other Ghanaian giants in fashion include Ozwald Boateng, who redefined British suit tailoring and the alluring model Adwoa Aboah.
Another Ghanaian label that continues to make waves in fashion is Aisha Ayensu’s Christie Brown. Under her label that creates luxury women’s apparel, Aisha has caught the attention of big players in the fashion world. She has styled a slew of international celebrities including Beyonce and Alicia Keys who feature her designs regularly. The fact that both the fashion label and its founder are relatively young but have achieved so much attests to the depth of talent in Ghanaian fashion today. With the trendiness of African print clothes and accessories at an all time high, Ghanaian designers continue to lead the trail through creativity and passion. And with more young designers and fashion houses in the pipeline, it’s safe to say that future of Ghanaian, and indeed West African, Fashion on the global stage is bright.
