VOGUE

The Evolution of Vogue Magazine Throughout the Twentieth Century in America.

By: Latané Rowland

Vogue Magazine was founded in 1892 by Arthur Baldwin Turnure. With the help of the magazine’s “notable financial backers such as Cornelius Vanderbilt, William Jay, A.M. Dodge, and Stuyvesant Fish,” Turnure was able to create and popularize the magazine(1). At first, Vogue intended to attract both male and female audiences as it covered, “news of the local social scene, traditions of high society, and social etiquette; It also reviewed books, plays, and music”(2). However, in 1909, the magazine was acquired by Condé Nast Publishers, which allowed , the magazine’s volume to become “thicker and its main focus was turned on women”(3). In the same year Nast acquired Vogue, the circulation of magazines reached 22,500(1). He pointed out the secret to his success, or what he referred to as, “the formula of Vogue,” which was “simply legibility; Nast obsessively regulated the clarity of writing and physical organization of the material contents of the magazine”(1). With this “legibility,” Nast could assure the reader that the magazine was entirely made up of “prestigious quality”(1). Nast’s ability to popularize the magazine not only stemmed from the clarity and organization of material content of the magazine, but also the distinguishable qualities it contained compared to other magazine’s in the market, “what set Vogue apart from the plethora of women’s magazines in circulation in the early twentieth century was the fact that only Vogue was tailored towards an elite audience, compared to publications such as Ladies’ Home Journal which appealed to a mass market”(1). The high demand for clothing was another reason the magazine rapidly flourished, the “mass production made various styles of clothing available to all people and magazines promoted the style of dress during the time(1). Many people also felt tired of the clothing restrictions due to the war and desired for more “luxurious items”(1). “Now published in eighteen countries, internationally,” “Vogue” began as a magazine that simply advertised news, reviewed entertainment, and gave tips relating to high society; However, the magazine became more popular as it evolved in numerous ways throughout the twentieth century, especially through the magazine’s cost and distribution, covers, and editors(1).

Cost and Distribution

How Cost and Distribution led to the changes of Vogue throughout the 20th century

Cost

Printing Press, built in Chicago by John Spencer, and designed by Superintendent Benjamin B. Huntoon (1836–1919). Huntoon described it as a,“double cylinder press, made from special designs, prints four pages at every revolution, and will make thirty or more revolutions a minute”(4).

Publishing a magazine in America was extremely expensive; the paper and ink that were needed for publishing were imported and taxed once in America(5). Poor roads, limited postal routes, and interstate custom regulations were also difficulties that made distributing magazines hard. However, by the beginning of the nineteenth century, the Industrial Revolution created affordable printing presses along with machine-made parts that were more readily available(5). Due to these new inventions, ink and paper were no longer imported, reducing the cost to publish magazines. At first, Vogue began as a weekly publication, but “Nast determined that Vogue would be published biweekly in 1909. Nast also adjusted the magazine’s price, as yearly subscriptions would be priced at four dollars, and the cost of an issue was raised from ten to fifteen cents”(1).

Distribution

Photo of Interstate 10, the Santa Monica Freeway, 1963(6).

In 1916, World War One made “impossible Vogue deliveries,” but with the Industrial Revolution, came the improvement of interstate highways, which made the distribution of magazines easier(3).

United States mail train in New York, 1900(7).

Another way the distribution of Vogue changed was the construction of a centralized postal system, which improved the efficiency of magazine distribution. By 1900, the nation’s mail system stretched from the east coast of the United States to Hawaii(8). The Postal Department increased its number of post offices and workers, to improve quality of service to all Americans. One way it improved its efficiency, was through taking advantage of the improvement in railroad development; By 1900, “Trains averaged between 30 or 40 miles an hour and tracks could be built over most terrains”(8). The department also increased its efficiency and speed of sorting and handling the nation’s mail, which also helped to improve the postal system throughout the United States(8). With this spur in growth of the postal system, Vogue was able to distribute their magazines in a more efficient way than before.

How the Covers Have Evolved Throughout the 20th Century

Art/Photography of Covers and Modeling/Models on Covers

Illustrated by Helen Dryden(9).

The magazine covers continued to evolve throughout the 20th century as the magazine began to redefine “the look of female models, eschewing shapely figures to highlight thin, gender-neutral physiques”(1).

Illustrated by George Wolfe Plank(10).

Illustrated by William Bolin(11).

Illustrated by Eduardo Garcia Benito(12).

The Art Deco and Jazz Age began in France after World War I, but began to spread internationally in the 1920's(13). This age featured “amazing colors and exotic Orientalism of the Ballet Russe,” which was a traveling ballet company based in Paris(13). Many of the covers from the early 20th century embodied the Art Deco and Jazz Age like the ones above. Eduardo Garcia Benito was an example of an Art Deco and Jazz Age inspired artist; He “had the most influence on the covers with illustrations that had soft lines and geometric shapes”(12).

Photographed by Francesco Scavullo(14).

Photographed by Henry Clarke(15).

By the 1970's and 1980's, covers were becoming too similar and needed a change, so when Anna Wintour became the magazine’s editor-in-chief, she decided to make a change; She was the first to put a model wearing jeans on the cover(16).

Photographed by Peter Lindbergh(17).

An important period in American Vogue history was when Anna Wintour became its first editor in chief in 1988. Wintour “Immediately transformed Vogue covers by emphasizing the woman’s body, rather than just her face, as well as by frequently featuring Hollywood actresses as opposed to traditional fashion models, thereby sparking an international trend”(2).

Evolution of Covers

Published December 17, 1892. This was Vogue’s first cover 120 years ago(18).

Published 1908. Illustration by G. Howard Hilder of a woman paddling a canoe(19).

Published October 15, 1910. Cover illustrated by Helen Dryden. This illustration was of a Gibson Girl, who represented the feminine ideal of the time(9).

Published April 1, 1918. Cover illustrated by George Wolfe Plank(10).

Published July 1, 1926. Cover was illustrated by Eduardo Garcia Benito. On this cover he illustrated the image of the flapper(20).

Published September 1, 1926. Cover was illustrated by Eduardo Garcia Benito, who illustrated over ninety covers between the years 1921 and 1940. On this cover he illustrated “The ultimate symbol of all that is chic, a woman walks through a large rainbow ‘V’ to present her secrets”(12).

Published October 1, 1926. This cover was illustrated by William Bolin(11).

Published January 15, 1932. This cover was illustrated by Georges Lepape(21).

Published March 15, 1932. This cover was illustrated by Pierre Mourgue who represented “A woman in a green hat and long gloves waves to three planes, which are presumably headed to Paris for the collections”(22).

Published July 1, 1932. This cover was photographed by Edward Steichen who “admirably demonstrates the contemporary theme of a fashionable woman living an active lifestyle.” This cover also featured the first colored photograph in Vogue(23).

Published August 15, 1933. This cover was photographed by Russian photographer, George Hoyningen-Huené, who is known for his “balanced composition and a classical sensibility”(24).

Published July 1, 1939. This cover was photographed by Horst P. Horst, featuring the fashion model Muriel Maxwell. German photographer, Hurst, is known for is known for his “dramatic lighting and imaginative props and sets. His photographs of calmly elegant women are among the most recognizable fashion photographs in the world”(25).

Published August, 1940. This cover was photographed by Lisa Fonssagrives(26).

Published December, 1940(27).

Published September 15, 1945. This cover was photographed by Constantin Joffé; “he was able to capture candid moments with a witty eye and a whimsical style. His portraits reveal casual and sometimes intimate moments and his fashion shots are elegant, cinematic, and show an appreciation of beauty”(28).

Published January 1, 1948. This cover was photographed by Herbert Matter, featuring model Joan Petit(29).

Published January 1, 1949. This cover was illustrated by Marcel Vertes who was known for his simple drawings(30).

Published March 1, 1957. This cover was photographed by Clifford Coffin, featuring Joan Friedman(31).

Published July 1, 1951. This cover was photographed by Clifford Coffin, who featured model Jean Patchett(32).

Published December 1, 1958. This cover was photographed by William Bell, who featured model Anne St. Marie(33).

Published October 15, 1952. This cover was photographed by Erwin Blumenfeld, who featured model Victoria von Hagen(34).

Published December 1, 1954. This cover was illustrated by Clifford Coffin(35).

Published April 15, 1959. This cover was photographed by Richard Rutledge, who “captures a unique moment, depicting model Sarah Tom talking into a man’s ear”(37).

Published July, 1961. This cover was photographed by Bert Stern, who featured model Deborah Dixon(37).

Published March 1, 1962. This cover was photographed by Bert Stern, who featured model Dorothea McGowan(38).

Published in 1964. Audrey Hepburn, fashion icon and screen legend, was put on the cover of Vogue(39).

Published November 15, 1966. This cover was photographed by Bert Stern, who featured fashion model Lauren Hutton(40).

Published April 15, 1972. This cover was photographed by Henry Clarke and features Italian actress, Sophia Loren(15).

Published March 1, 1974. This cover was photographed by Francesco Scavullo and features model, Pola(41).

Published August 1, 1974. This photograph was taken by Francesco Scavullo, who featured Beverly Johnson, the first African American model to appear on a Vogue cover(14).

Published November, 1988. This cover was photographed by Peter Lindbergh. Anna Wintour changed fashion history by putting the first to put a model wearing jeans on the cover(17).

Published May, 1989. Anna Wintour also changed fashion history by starting the trend of putting celebrities on the covers, in this case Madonna. Wintour was told this magazine would never sell; however, newsstand sales rose 40%(42).

How Publishers and Editors Have Evolved and Contributed to the Success of Vogue

Arthur Baldwin Turnure, Vogue founder(43).

Vogue Magazine was founded by Turnure in 1982. The magazine started off as a weekly journal for New York City’s social elite, “covering news of the local social scene, traditions of high society, and social etiquette; it also reviewed books, plays, and music”(2).

The magazine’s first editor was Josephine Redding; she was given the task of titling the publication and, “After scouring the dictionary for inspiration Redding stumbled upon the following definition of “vogue”: ‘Mode of fashion prevalent at any particular time; popular reception, repute, generally used in the phrase ‘in vogue’: as, a particular style of dress was then ‘in vogue’; such opinions are now ‘in vogue’”(1). Redding believed this definition embodied the vision of the magazine, and thus the magazine was titled Vogue.

Following the death of Turnure in 1906, Marie Harrison, Turnure’s sister-in-law and Vogue’s editor since 1901, took control of the magazine along with editor Edna Woolman Chase(1).

Condé Nast(48).

Condé Nast Publications took over authority of Vogue in 1909. During the Great Depression, fashion became an” unnecessary luxury,” and was clearly unimportant compared to other necessities in life(1). Even during a tragic time like this, Nast allowed the magazine to flourish. In the early twenties, with the help of Nast, Vogue reached a circulation of approximately 137,000, with advertising revenues of $2,178,000, which continued to increase throughout the following decades, “establishing Vogue as the expert of highbrow fashion and elite consumerism”(1). He changed the magazine into a biweekly publication and also made Vogue international, first in Britain and then France, focusing “on beauty, composure, and etiquette”(1).

Edna Woolman Chase.

Edna Woolman Chase became the editor-in-chief for 38 years, from 1914 to 1951; She was the longest-serving editor of Vogue(44). She worked with Nast to build “the fashion empire of Vogue”(1). During this time period, Chase held the very first charity fashion show; She decided to, “bring together the most prominent ladies of New York society and the best American designers and, under the magazine’s aegis, hold a fashion show to benefit women and children afflicted by the war”(44). The show featured some of the top designers during the time and ended up being very successful; The event was even covered in an eleven-page spread in one of the issues that year(44). “At the time, modeling was not yet a career in the United States, so the women photographed here were from the shops of the dressmakers. They were taught how to run down the walkway and pose in their clothes”(44).

World War II was another period with a declining economy, yet Chase took on the challenge of “preserving the luxury magazine”(1). There were “financial restraints and restrictions on materials such as fabric that resulted from the war, Vogue began to emphasize simplicity and resourcefulness as the new trends in fashion”(1). A 1942 issue even said that “it looks wrong to look wealthy”(1). The magazine even promoted “recycling, repurposing, and reconditioning clothing”(1).

After Chase’s retirement in 1952, Chase picked Daves from Jessica Daves, from Vogue’s editorial department, as the new editor-in-chief(1). With the end of World War II, the trend of simplicity shifted back to emphasizing the shape and form of the female body(1). “The magazine accentuated the importance of the female silhouette, pioneering the female obsession with body consciousness,” as Vogue began printing “exercise programs and various fads in dieting”(1).

Diana Vreeland(45).

Vogue was then taken over by Diana Vreeland in the 1960’s(45). Vreeland was “a fashion legend and astute image maker, who raised glamour and well-groomed exotica to a high art by producing shoots that created fanciful black-and-white and four-color fashion worlds”(45). During this period, the magazine promoted contemporary fashion and discussed the issues of the time(45). Also during this time, top models like Twiggy and Penelope Tree were featured in the many trends of the time, such as the mini dress(45). Vreeland also changed the magazine into a monthly publication, different from the previous biweekly publication(45).

Grace Mirabella followed Vreeland in 1971; she focused on ideals of the liberated 1970s woman and added “text, interviews, arts coverage, and serious health pieces to the magazine’s usual menu of couture and ready-to-wear fashion features” British Vogue’s editor Anna Wintour replaced Mirabella in 1988(1).

Anna Wintour(47).

In 1988, Anna Wintour took over as editor-in-chief and remains to this day. Wintour is a well known, powerful figure in the fashion world. She is known for “emphasizing the woman’s body, rather than just her face, as well as by frequently featuring Hollywood actresses as opposed to traditional fashion models, thereby sparking an international trend”(2). She created a magazine that appealed to a bigger audience and made many changes that impacted the magazine and fashion worlds, like being first to put a model wearing jeans on the cover and popularizing the idea of putting famous actresses on the covers instead of traditional fashion models.

Each new editor brought something new to the magazine, adding their own touch and ideas of what they believe the magazine should embody. The editors and their key inputs are the reason why the magazine is so successful today.

Since the founding of Vogue, the magazine has transformed into an influential, successful, and iconic magazine that has greatly impacted the fashion world and the countless magazines we have today. As people’s incomes rose throughout the century, new markets for consumer goods were created(47). For the first time these new markets were now available to a mass market due to the industrial revolution. Ready-made clothing was one development during this period(47). Before, during the early nineteenth century, most people had made their own clothing, but due to the invention of the sewing machine and other technological innovations, the manufacture of clothing emerged and helped create industries devoted to making ready-made garments(47). After having clothing restrictions during World War I, many people became concerned with their personal style.What started off as a vision by Turnure, became reality with the help of numerous publishers, editors, photographers, models, and others within the Vogue industry. Beginning as a small American fashion gazette is now one of the most successful fashion magazines in the world. Throughout the 20th century, the cost, distribution, photography, covers, publishers, and editors of Vogue have changed in a way that makes Vogue so successful today. Along with the evolution of Vogue, came the evolution of culture and style. Without these changes, Vogue would not have evolved the way that it did and would not be nearly as successful as it is today.