Beware, Here be Dragons — Christianiana in Copenhagen

Beware, Here be Dragons. This is how the place greets you.

Christianiana is a magical place in Copenhagen, Denmark. I’ve seen similar places, like Metelkova in Ljubljana, but this one has a more amazing story and a more interesting crowd. Hashish and weed dealers are all over the place, they practically sell the thing in the open. Some of them even have small shacks with a scale inside for measuring the stuff. We visited near Christmas, so naturally their stands had Christmas lights and blasted of the compulsory Jingle Bells. Others just stood around barrels with fire, to get warm. Smart advice: don’t stand near the same barrels as them, they will not take it kindly. They are easily recognizable, their face is covered and they wear something black. The place is filled with amazing street art, but photos are not allowed for obvious reasons.

While speaking with the locals we grasped a bit about the history of the place, understood better why the specific atmosphere and the area’s relationship with law enforcement.

All the things that follow, were told to me by a great fella who presented himself as Jedi. Long, curly, grey hair with a bit of beard. In his 40’s. He saw my surprised face after we exchanged names, he smiled. Then he told me his real name is a bit hard to remember and pronounce. Next he properly introduced himself. It appears, he was right, as I couldn’t recall his real name if my life would depend on it. All I know, he is the least Turkish looking Turkish I’ve ever met. Jedi was a Christianiana veteran, 25 years of visiting the place.

It all started the ‘70s.

The place was founded by hippies in an abandoned military base sometime in the ’70s. Lots of sex, no war and different types of greens. It wasn’t at all about the money back then, the city didn’t really care. No tourists, just the hippies having some great time. These guys were old-timers, when Jedi started coming around.

Hippie Heaven Getting Hype

The place is special in every way. It is a grey-zone when it comes to applying the law, and it’s a green light zone when it comes to visiting. So nature followed its course and tourists started flocking in. The place became unimaginably popular. Officials tried to do something about it so raids followed. Dealers didn’t have their faces covered, so undercover cops purchased some stuff and caught it all on tape. The former high-rollers are in jail now, from what Jedi told me. These times you could still smoke the weed inside in one of the many pubs.

The Nostalgic Nowadays

Jedi was convinced that the place was way better back in the day. It wasn’t about the money. Dealers weren’t really present and you could still smoke inside one of the many pubs. OK, that’s a funny part. The pubs have No Smoking signs all over the place, yet everyone is still smoking. So Jedi explained it to me. Regular cigarettes are ok, even when smoked inside. Weed is not anymore.

If you are around, visit the place by all means. In fact visit it twice. One time during the day and one time during the evening. It will be a completely different experience. The place itself is not really dangerous, no one will hurt you, just… don’t forget to bring your common sense.