Thrones Aside: What to Do if You Find Yourself in Girona
Evidence that Girona is not just another location from the GOT series
My desire to visit Girona dates back to 2019 when I was captivated by the scenic landscapes in “Game of Thrones.” And here I am, excited and ready to explore everything I once admired on the screen.
The city charmed me from the first moments. Located on the border with France (and at times of history even being a part of it), Girona couldn’t help but absorb the aesthetics of the neighboring state. And it did, very eagerly and tastefully.
There are many well-preserved medieval buildings, but they are of a different color than I had seen elsewhere on the Iberian peninsula before. Typically, the stone of buildings from that period is somewhat yellowish, like beloved by the Spaniards turron or nougat. In Girona, however, it is mostly gray or ivory. In the old town, numerous houses are adorned with pistachio-colored shutters (or another muted shade).
We arrived in the city in the evening and immediately appreciated the non-provincial urban lighting. All the street lamps emitted the same yellowish hue, creating a homely and cozy atmosphere. We were fortunate to visit the city during the pre-Christmas period, so in addition to the regular street lamps, there were holiday garlands tastefully hung throughout the city. Everything was in a single warm shade.
In Girona, there are many cozy squares with cafes and restaurants, each inviting you to sit down and join the unhurried vibe of the city. Hard to resist. Deep autumn is beautiful there. Yellow leaves twirl above the streets, over the squares, and across terraces with good-looking and nicely dressed people. Everything is incredibly aesthetic and classy.
Unfortunately, the beauty of the local restaurants doesn’t match the quality of the food they serve. We visited three places with the highest ratings on Google Maps, and all of them left us disappointed.
The Cathedral of Girona is truly enchanting. There are many viewpoints scattered around the city that offer breathtaking views of the cathedral and other parts of the medieval town. The building is visible from many points throughout the city, thanks to its high tower and elevated location on the hill. Standing next to it, I felt like a tiny grain of sand.
Externally, the cathedral is in ivory tones, and even the spaces for stained glass are quite dark and colorless. However, upon entering, the windows come alive in a riot of contrasting bright colors. The interior of the cathedral is truly exquisite and worth visiting.
Inside the cathedral, there is also a small museum with preserved stained glass windows from the XIII and XIV centuries, which you can study closely. An indescribable feeling when you can observe an old windowpane just a meter away from yourself.
What’s particularly pleasing is that the cathedral doesn’t attempt to commercialize its “Game of Thrones” filming history. They may have likely increased the entrance fee after the series went live, but they still respect their history and refrain from turning it into a masquerade — a contrast I’ve witnessed before in other places, such as Dracula’s Castle in Romania. In Girona Cathedral, they offer guided tours and provide audio guides, but focus on narrating the cathedral’s history. Nothing about the Thrones.
Middle Ages are not the only atmosphere you can grasp in Girona. Closer to the river, there’s an entirely different but equally unique ambiance. There, colorful and slightly crooked houses in various shades of orange, yellow, and red line the riverbank. Their windows look directly into the water.
The river itself has considerably dried up for some reason. There is ample space for the water current that was dedicated to it historically, but in places, only a narrow stream is evident.
Girona holds many examples of Catalan Art Nouveau. Having lived in Valencia since August, my eyes have become accustomed to the local modernism, characterized by numerous colors and shades of fruits and flowers. Catalan Art Nouveau is more restrained; one needs to notice it, and it can easily be overlooked. If you observe the city closely, you can discover a wealth of beautiful ornamental details — doors, stained glass, and even street lamps. But you need to be attentive to see that.
Girona proved to be a charming destination. As I bid farewell to it, I admit that it gave me unexpected discoveries beyond the cinematic allure of the Iron Throne.
