The New, New Nordic: Copenhagen’s Latest Restaurants May Surprise You
The New Nordic Cuisine moniker is synonymous with a rise in popularity of Danish cuisine. But the culinary scene in Copenhagen today looks much different than it did when Noma first made waves more than a decade ago. Today’s Copenhagen-based chefs are loosening their ties to the New Nordic pigeonhole and developing their own gastronomic style that encompasses more of the city’s global culinary community.
“The food revolution in Copenhagen, which started 13 years ago, with the introduction of the New Nordic kitchen, is still expanding rapidly,” says Pelle Øby Andersen, managing director of the Food Organisation of Denmark. “A bunch of the most talented chefs from all over the world — who have been working in places like Noma, Geranium, and Amass — have now opened their own restaurants in Copenhagen. Not Nordic restaurants; but restaurants that bring the chefs’ native food culture to Copenhagen. It is a gift to the food scene.”
Local chefs are leading Copenhagen’s next wave of culinary dominance, pioneering a new generation of talented food entrepreneurs in the city who wish to share their food culture with the Danish population. “Copenhagen’s food scene is much more diverse today than only a few years ago,” says Andersen. “Today it is possible to eat fantastic food from a new country for two weeks in a row.” Here, the best restaurants bringing global cuisine to Copenhagen — and what to eat at each.
Asian Steamed Buns at Kiin Kiin Bao Bao
Chef Henrik Yde-Andersen of Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin opened Kiin Kiin Bao Bao at the end of 2016, a concept focused on steamed buns, soju-flavored milk, and Korean pop music. Dishes are meant for sharing, including the braised pork with peanuts and hoisin sauce bao, crispy chicken with chili mayonnaise and spring onions, and spicy duck with oyster sauce and basil. Pair your bao with cucumber kimchee, a house-made cocktail, and bingsu Korean dessert with strawberries.
Mexican Tacos at Hija de Sánchez
As a first-generation Mexican-American, Hija de Sánchez owner Rosio Sanchéz knows her tacos, paletas, and aguas frescas. After serving as the sous chef of Noma, Sanchéz opened her own restaurant as a homage to her roots. Importing corn, dried chilies, and spices directly from Mexico and making her own masa and salsas, Sanchéz creates the most authentic Mexican taco experience in Europe at her two taqueries. Order classic tacos like the al pastor or the reinvented huevos ranchero taco, a tortilla topped with fried egg, salsa, and pork cracklings.
Japanese Ramen at Ramen to Bíiru and Slurp Ramen Joint
At three of Copenhagen’s best eateries, ramen dominates the menu. Expect shio, shoyu, and miso varieties matched with craft beer at both Ramen to Bíiru locations. At Slurp Ramen Joint, feast on a karmic-inspired bowl crafted by Philipp Inreiter, whose background includes stints at Noma and Relæ as well Japan’s top ramen shops. Pair it with a side of pork gyozu and pickled cucumber noodles with katsuobushi.
Italian Fare at Rudo and Restaurant Brace
Danish master chef, Noma alum, and multi-restauranteur Christian Puglisi has another restaurant under his belt with Kim Rossen: the duo merge traditional Italian cuisine and organic Danish ingredients at Rudo in Copenhagen’s Eataly. Featuring an à la carte menu ranging from schnitzel to caviar to fresh mozzarella with leeks and elderflower, complement your meal with a barrel-aged Negroni from the eatery’s own vermouth bar. Also merging Nordic and Italian gastronomy is Restaurant Brace, helmed by Nicola Fanetti, former head chef of Michelin-starred restaurant Era Ora. Select from an eight- or 12-course tasting menu and finish with Fanetti’s tiramisu with aquavit, a nod to New Nordic.
North American Barbecue and Sandwiches at WarPigs and WarPigs Deli
When American brewer 3 Floyds and a Danish brewer Mikkeller collaborate, a classic, Texan barbecue joint opens in the heart of Copenhagen. With 20 beers on tap and slow-smoked, dry-rubbed meat on the grill, there’s nothing not to love. After perfecting their barbecue techniques at WarPigs for nearly two years, the outfit opened WarPigs Deli, where you can indulge in a selection of sandwiches like the Gobblin’ King, made with smoked turkey, maple bacon, gouda cheese, and garlic mayo. Each sandwich is served with salt and vinegar chips and a dill pickle.
Venezuelan Dishes at Restaurant Taller
Currently relocating to a newer, bigger site, Restaurant Taller is a not-to-miss Copenhagen eatery focused on Venezuelan cuisine. Hosting special events and pop-ups across Denmark in the interim, the forthcoming restaurant will focus on the same Latin American dishes by chef Karlos Ponte, including punchy starters like pickled palm hearts with tomato and fennel, and hearty courses of lobster, blood sausage, and black lentil noodles cooked in vegetable bouillon with an egg yolk on top.
