From ancient civilisations to Cuttack -Odisha, India
(n) French ~ filigrane | Italian ~ filigrana| Latin ~ filum + granum grain
Filigree essentially alludes to gold or silver wires twisted, turnt and joined to make extremely intricate trim/lace like structures. It is viewed as the ideal type of workmanship to be utilised for arabesque plans and delicate tracery. The delicacy of this craftsmanship makes it a charming and ladylike artistic expression creativity, precision and hardwork.
Origin
Begun in Mesopotamia and Egypt (accepted as filigree craftsmanship’s first nations), the appeal of filigree spread in Asian mainland during 2500 BC.
From Asia, it was exported to Europe. Thanks to archaeology, we could find evidence in ancient Mesopotamia relics that filigree is incorporated into jewellery since 3000 B.C. It was then very common in Italy, France and Portugal, from 1660 to the late 19th century.
Soon after, this intricate craft spread to different parts of the world.
Similarities are found in Indian and Greek filigree expressions due to similar techniques and cycles followed in the process of making filigree in both the nations.
Tarkasi in Cuttack- ‘The Silver City’
Tarakasi has been a speciality of the state, along with other tribal jewellery.
In India, individuals of the Cuttack city of Odisha are significantly engaged with making this workmanship of Filigree, and hence it has come to be known as ‘The Silver City’
Silver filigree first entered Cuttack via Indonesian traders 500 years ago through strong trade links. The very first shops of Chandi Medha (now known as Tarakasi) started in 1956 in Chaudhary Bazaar at Cuttack.
The filigree craftsmanship is famously known as ‘Cuttacki Tarkasi’, and these craftsmen have been known all over the world, to be the best at their work, since over 700 years.
For the individuals of Orissa, filigree has been a huge affair since old occasions. It represents unique craftsmanship, displays high levels of ability & hardwork and provides as a source of income for many entire families.
Filigree as Cuttacki Tarkasi
Tarakasi is considered as very auspicious jewellery, Odia brides are said to be incomplete without the Tarakasi toe rings and anklets.
On the day of Mahasashthi (the sixth day of Navaratri)) the goddess Durga arrives in Cuttack (the trade center of Odisha) wearing a ‘Mukutah’ (crown) of nearly 450 kilos of gleaming pure silver. If one looks closely, the intricate ‘jaali’ work of Silver Filigree makes up the crown and the whole background. These details take months to make altogether.
The intricacy and fine craftsmanship of this work are unparalleled in India and without a doubt, Cuttack is very proud of its legacy and calls its art of silver filigree as Chandi Medha.
Process
The process consists of drawing silver (or gold) through a series of consecutively smaller holes to produce fine strands of wire.These wires are then made into various shapes by the deft hands of the craftsman, by bending them into different designs and soldering them with pincers, scissors and various other hand tools.
The traditional process sounds quite painful. Pure silver is first melted and then fashioned into thin silver wires (the thinner the better). An artist holds a long tube into his mouth all the while directing a small flame through it which softens the wire for moulding. The artisans spend many excruciating days in fashioning those wires in designs inspired by the immediate environment- flowers, birds, the Konark Chakra and many other religious motifs.
The Dying Art of Odisha
The art of Tarakasi soon spread all around Cuttack and then to Bhubaneshwar (state capital now) before spreading its branches over other places in eastern India and so on.
However, the back breaking labor that’s involved in Tarakasi and the lack of exposure (which failed to get the craftsmen a fair price) soon began forcing artisans into other alternative modes of livelihood.
Today Tarakashi is a dying art and very few jewellery lovers in India are aware of its rare exquisitely delicate beauty. Right now there are only 400 odd craftsman families who still carry on this tradition.
In Cuttack, the filigree labourers are paid Rs 6000 per month depending upon the profit of workshop. Workshops earns about Rs 30000 per month through this job.
Lack of interest among the new generation because of its labor intensive and time consuming nature, increase in the cost of raw material, poor returns to the artisans and absence of a strong community based leadership contribute to reasons behind the slow death of this craft.
Consumers’ minimal knowledge of the craft and their demand for newer designs, take away the real essence of the traditional Tarakasi.
The intense work of these talented craftsmen needs to be promoted in a better manner to help people all over the world appreciate and help sustain this age old craft and save the Silver Legacy of Odisha.
