Surrounded by the echoes of the Adan, the Palestinian hospitality, the lively markets, and the insane heat, Nablus is like no other. Don’t let the media deceive you.
For those that don’t know, Nablus is a city located in Palestine, nestled in-between two mountains. Standing at the centre of the city, you can see the stone-coloured buildings melt into one another as they grow up the mountain. In the late summer days, the sky lights up as the flaming orange sun sinks behind the mountain layers. Just one of the things I miss.
Before I left to travel, I heard concerns from a lot of people about the dangers of travelling and the uncertainty of the situation in Palestine — that it was a dangerous and unsafe place for anyone to go. Of course, a lot of these opinions are based on how the media portrays this occupation and how this shapes our perception. The truth is, I have never felt safer in any other place than I did in Nablus.
Once I crossed the checkpoint into the West Bank, I noticed the flurry of Palestinian flags proudly flying from shops, signs, and cars. On the bus, people were kind to help me find my next stop, despite our language barrier. They navigated me to the bustling taxi rank in Ramallah where I got on a small, tightly compressed bus and I was on my way to Nablus. As I looked out of the window to the semi-desert landscape, every so often the old agricultural green terracing would make its presence along with a flood of olive trees.
We eventually reached our last stop in Nablus and I was the only person left in the taxi, along with the Arabic-speaking driver. My host was coming to pick me up but since I couldn’t tell him that, I instead gave him my phone to speak to her. I vividly remember the day being extremely hot, but the air con in the taxi was a blessing. The driver used google translate to tell me to wait in the cool taxi for my host because he told her “I promised God I would look after her.” It was a kindness I did not expect. He then left, leaving me with the keys in the taxi, a situation I would never find myself anywhere else to be honest. But he returned with a cold drink of orange for me. Again, another unexpected kindness. We briefly had a pleasant conversation via google translate before he left to speak to other drivers and my host arrived. This selfless and generous interaction that welcomed me into Nablus set the precedent for how the people of Nablus treated their visitors and friends.
As I settled into Nablus, I was never without something to do, somewhere to explore, or something to learn.
Downton Nablus is an experience in itself. Overflowing with colourful clothing shops, hijab markets, and bright fresh fruit and vegetables, it is nothing less than a vibrant and lively place. You find yourself walking through a maze of people through the streets as you overhear the loud proclamations of market owners advertising their produce. It was always a must to also get a misflora (passionfruit) slush. Another thing I miss. A friend of mine took us to a high building in the centre which overlooked downtown. It felt like a secret place where time stood still. Standing there, you could observe everyone and everything — the cats scurrying in between the crowds of people, the black and yellow taxis bolting into the underground, the ‘famous twins’ in their matching clothing, the joyful laughing from strangers, and the sun gracefully setting ahead of us. It was always a peaceful and charming place for us to hang out.
Venturing further through the streets and you end up in the old city, one of the best places in Nablus, enriched with Palestinian history and solidarity. As you stroll through its cobblestoned streets you find pictures of martyrs on the wall and political graffiti marked next to the Palestinian flag. Unfortunately, there are bombed buildings that are in the process of being rebuilt. Here more than anywhere else in Nablus can you find the Palestinian struggle presented so visibly. It is a stark reminder of the reality of the situation and the loss that many continue to suffer.
Enfolded within this hub of activism under the arched alleyways is the renowned desert dish — kanafeh. Even before I stepped foot in Nablus, everyone I met was telling me that I had to try it. So, of course, we were intrigued. A rich infusion of cheese, pastry, and syrup, this sweet Nablus delight is one that is unmatched. Served by the famous ‘man with the moustache’ Nablus kanafeh is even more special because the shop has been passed down through the Al-Shantiri family for many years. And you cannot get kanafeh the same anywhere else. Believe me, I recently tried it again in Liverpool, and it was not even close. One thing for certain though, is that your mouth will be left quenching for water afterwards.
Though, the city of Nablus is nothing without its people. Its generous, heart-warming, and friendly Palestinian people. And I’ve had the greatest honour to befriend the best of them. Just one of the things I admired was the ambition and dedication of young people. Even from hearing their stories, you can sense their confidence and self-assuredness. Many were studying medicine or civil engineering. Or they had a love for studying English. One of my students was even heading to Boston in the summer to present his research in a competition. They always seemed focused and driven. And maybe it’s because the situation has forced them to mature faster, or maybe it’s because they are well-educated. Or both. Regardless, I’ve never met a group of young students who have as much determination for their future endeavours.
Physically being in Nablus, being in Palestine, is different. You can read about what is happening so much, but being there, seeing it and hearing it from the people themselves is different. It is not like how the media portray it either, shocking I know. But seeing the happiness, the goodness, and the lively spirit was important. Important to be able to counter what the media shows us and what others may believe.
Palestinian history is one that is full of tragedy, loss, and sadness. But, it is also one of life, resistance, love, and passion. A city lit by the blinding sun rays and roasting summer air, booming with the chatting of locals and music seeping from the swarming cars on the streets, at the heart of Nablus lies the strength of its people, the beauty of its landscape, and the spirit of its past.
Nablus and its people will always have a place in my heart. I am thankful to have been welcomed to this wonderful city and I hope to return one day In Sha Allah.
