Libya
“I will stay in Libya until I die, or until the end of the time God allows me to live”. — Muammar Gaddafi
I made a few trips to Libya in the early 2000s when Gaddafi was still in power. Arriving at the airport in Tripoli you were greeted with huge portraits of Gaddafi on the walls. There was no doubt who was in charge.
One noticeable aspect that Libya had in common with other countries ruled by dictators was what I like to call “orderly dysfunction”. I know it sounds crazy but countries like Libya, Iraq, and Syria all worked under dictators even if the bureaucracies were a bit haphazard.
Even with computers on many desks, paperwork was plentiful for the weary traveler. In those days getting a visa to travel to Libya was more time consuming than for a lot of other countries. So when I was told that I could get a visa on arrival since I had been to the country previously I jumped at the chance. Big mistake.
Airport
Upon landing in Tripoli I got in line to present my passport for inspection. I had filled out the ubiquitous entry form that was popular in many African and Middle East countries during that time.
I presented my passport and papers to the customs person, explaining that I was seeking a visa on arrival. The customs official tried to convince me that this privilege was not available to Americans.
