Bali Chronicles #001: Spiritual Ascension at Lempuyang Luhur Temple
Bali, often referred to as the ‘Island of a Thousand Temples,’ is renowned for its myriad of sacred shrines scattered across the island. Known locally as ‘pura,’ these temples vary from majestic historical complexes to quaint, intimate sanctuaries, playing a pivotal role in the spiritual and cultural fabric of Balinese society. This diverse array of temples not only underscores Bali’s rich religious heritage but also forms an integral part of the everyday lives of its people.
The term ‘pura’, used in Indonesian to denote a temple, has its roots in the Sanskrit suffixes (-pur, -puri, -pura, -puram, -pore), which translate to ‘gateway’. These temples, or puras, are perceived as earthly embodiments of swargaloka or kahyangan, realms regarded as the divine abodes of Ida Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa, the Supreme Creator. This conceptualization imbues each pura with profound spiritual significance, symbolizing a nexus between the earthly and the celestial.
Numerous mythologies depict the sacred and ethereal heavenly realm as mirrored on Earth through ‘sacred mountains’, such as the Himalayas in India, Mount Semeru in Java, and Mount Agung in Bali. These mountains are revered as the dwellings of divine celestial beings.
In this context, each temple, distinguished by its distinctive architecture and specific purpose, adds a unique thread to Bali’s rich and intricate mosaic of spiritual landmarks and rituals.
Currently, Bali is home to over 10,000 temples, which are primarily divided into four major categories:
- Pura Kahyangan Jagad: These temples are dedicated to worshipping various manifestations of Ida Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa, exemplified by the Besakih, Batur, and Batukaru temples. They hold a revered place in the Balinese Hindu Dharma community.
- Pura Kahyangan Desa (Territorial Temples): These religious sanctuaries are supported by specific desa adat (customary villages) and include temples such as Pura Puseh (dedicated to Vishnu), Pura Desa (for Brahma), and Pura Dalem (for Shiva).
- Pura Swagina (Special Purpose Temples): Tailored to the needs of specific penyiwi (congregations), these include pura subak (irrigation temples), pura melanting (market temples), and pemaksan pragina (performer temples), among others.
- Pura Kawitan (Ancestral Temples): These are maintained by specific congregations based on family lineage, with examples like Padharman Pulasari, Pura Ibu, Pura Panti, and Pura Dadia.
Each category plays a distinct role in the religious and cultural tapestry of Bali, reflecting the island’s deep spiritual heritage.
One close to the heart, nestled atop the verdant hills of Bisbis, with a panoramic view of Tribuana Village in the Abang District of Karangasem Regency, lies the spiritual gem of East Bali, Pura Lempuyang Luhur.
This sacred site forms an integral part of the Sad Kahyangan or Sad Kahyangan Jagad, a revered group of six primary temples in Bali. The Balinese hold these temples in high esteem, believing them to be key anchors in maintaining the island’s spiritual equilibrium. The esteemed Sad Kahyangan includes:
- Pura Besakih, located in Karangasem Regency.
- Pura Lempuyang Luhur, also in Karangasem Regency.
- Pura Goa Lawah in Klungkung Regency.
- Pura Uluwatu in Badung Regency.
- Pura Luhur Batukaru in Tabanan Regency.
- Pura Pusering Jagat (also known as Pura Puser Tasik) in Gianyar Regency.
These temples are not just religious structures but are seen as pivotal sanctuaries that uphold the spiritual harmony of Bali.
Pura Lempuyang Luhur’s origins are rich in symbolism and reverence, particularly towards tampurhyang, or sacred mountains. This temple is a tribute to Hyang Gni Jaya, also known as Dewa Iswara (Ishvara), who is revered as the deity governing the eastern direction in the Dewata Nawa Sanga’s (compass lotus) cardinal constellation.
Dewa Iswara is iconographically represented wielding a vajra (Balinese: bajra — thunderbolt bell) weapon, mounted on an elephant, and associated with the color white and the sacred syllable 'sa' of the dasa aksara (ten primordial letters or sounds), which subsides as the heart of living creatures, especially humans. In this constellation, Dewa Iswara is accompanied by his consort, Uma, and epitomizes the ‘Mighty Ruler’ or ‘The Lord.’
The temple festival at Pura Lempuyang Luhur, a significant event in the Balinese spiritual calendar, occurs every 210 days, falling on Wraspati Umanis Wuku Dungulan. In the year 2024, this auspicious date is marked on the leap day of Thursday, February 29th, which coincides with Manis Galungan, the day following Galungan.
This day serves not only as an extension of the celebration of righteousness but also as a day to honor love and adoration among semeton, which includes family, friends, and relatives. This is accomplished through the practice of simakrama, which involves maintaining social connections, nurturing relationships, and fostering community harmony. Activities on this day may range from excursions to tourist attractions to visiting close relatives, ensuring that all actions align with the principles of dharma or righteousness.
Pura Lempuyang Luhur is revered not only as a haven for receiving blessings and deepening spiritual understanding but also as a sacred place where devotees seek Tirtha Pingit, the holy water, for various ceremonial purposes. It is esteemed as a tranquil sanctuary for those seeking enlightenment and inner peace.
Pura Lempuyang Luhur’s ‘Heavenly Gate’ in Bali has soared in popularity, becoming a social media phenomenon. This emblematic portal frames the magnificent Mount Agung, achieving spectacular visual harmony. Renowned for its awe-inspiring vistas and deep spiritual resonance, the site attracts a global audience of tourists and photography aficionados. The gate’s imagery, frequently photographed with a reflective effect that mirrors the appearance of water, represents an entryway to tranquility and spiritual sanctity. It stands as an essential visit for anyone delving into the rich cultural and scenic splendor of Bali.
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