Looking for Grand Cru in the New World: Griffin’s Lair Syrah from True Masters Pax & Bedrock
There are some wines in this world that are simply impossible to forget. From Allemand to Chave, I’ve been lucky and patient enough to taste some of the world’s greatest wines. It’s my honest belief that the wines of Pax Mahle stand among these life affirming producers. Many of you are probably familiar with Pax (especially if you hang around me long enough) but if not, check out my write up from a few months back where I stated that he is my favorite producer ever. Indeed, I would go as far to say that his wines were life changing and palate forming for me.
It was specifically the “2010 Pax Griffin’s Lair” that cemented my love of Syrah and un-manipulated wines in general. The first time I tasted this wine I was absolutely blown away by the power and intensity on display. After that first exposure to Griffin’s Lair I became obsessed, tracking down every vintage and bottle I could find. Though it’s true that Pax’s style has evolved over the years (becoming more elegant and refined), one thing has not changed: His complete and utter commitment to authenticity and terroir. This is a rare quality not only in California, but in the wine world at large.
I’m not the only person in this industry to praise Pax and his Griffin’s Lair Syrah. Among the admirers includes one of California’s top young winemakers: Morgan Twain Peterson. Morgan is the owner and winemaker of Bedrock (who was also featured recently). I was able to talk to Morgan about the virtues of Griffin’s Lair among other things. Having supported Bedrock, he was kind enough to grant us a case of his version of Griffin’s Lair. This is a wine of minuscule production, typically reserved for Bedrock’s mailing list only. Now, it’s an exclusive here in Colorado at the wine shop I buy for. Here’s what Morgan had to say about Pax and Griffin’s Lair in an old blog post:
“I was still in graduate school when I tasted the first Syrah from Griffin’s Lair. It was back in 2005, and the wine was made by the inimitable Pax Mahle. I distinctly remember mentioning to my friend, as we tasted it, that ‘this is a Syrah that I would love to make.’ At the time though I was still buried in graduate school, my legs were burning from climbing the stairs of the Ivory Tower and the thought of Bedrock Wine Co. was a mere zygote in my imagination. It is funny how those seemingly irrational musings on a cold, winter night years ago manifested into something…
Truly, Pax and his Griffin’s Lair Syrah possesses the capacity to inspire and captivate. Usually, this level of worship is reserved for the most cult, hard-to-acquire, old world examples. However, here it is in all it’s glory — and in our own backyard. It’s interesting that Morgan makes the comparison to Cornas because that is exactly the region that Griffin’s Lair most reminds me of. It’s not as light or fresh as Saint Joseph nor as polished as Hermitage. Instead, it has the deep, hidden complexity and rawness found in some of the finest Cornas — but again, it’s its own thing. I was lucky enough to meet Pax back in November and taste his current releases. Asked to describe his tasting notes on Griffin’s Lair, Pax simply said “Inward”. For me, a glass of Griffin’s Lair exerts the same inexplicable force elicited by peering over the edge of a particularly steep precipice. The pull is real and irrefutable.
So what is it about this place that makes such special wine? Well, historically, owners Joan and Jim Griffin farmed the vineyard by themselves, selling fruit to only the best wineries in California. The site is located in Sonoma, but specifically the cool, wind-riddled Petaluma Gap. The cooling wind whips from the valley, hitting the Sonoma Mountains and rips South. Some grapes could not stand this level of punishment, but Syrah is ideal here. If you want to make highly ripened Syrah, this is not the place to do it. Indeed, all of Pax’s wines barely resemble other New World wine, be it California or other warm regions abroad. In a blind tasting, many would assume it French if not for its own idiosyncrasies. I’ve tasted several vintages of Griffin’s Lair blind with family and friends, and the experience is always the same. “Could this be Cornas? But what is that other quality we are experiencing here? Oh! Of course… it’s Griffin’s Lair.”
Pax was the first to lobby the Griffin’s to convert to Organic farming, a philosophy that Joan now fully embraces, saying:
“If you have healthy soil, the vines are going to be healthy. You can see the difference — the cover crop is lusher, the soil has more earthworms, and the vineyard corridors are teeming with beneficial insects. The Roundup soil is like a moonscape — just bare dirt.”
The fact that the vineyard is farmed organically is important because it matches both Pax’s and Bedrock’s commitment to minimalist and natural winemaking. Pax for example, uses almost no sulfites (or none at all), ferments whole cluster with no added yeasts, and forgoes all other additives. Bedrock also is a huge proponent of wild yeasts and models his winemaking style after some of the world’s greatest Syrah producers. These are serious wines made without manipulation.
However, Pax and Bedrock are stylistically quite different. For me, Pax is all about rawness. Bedrock is more polish. Which is better? It’s hard to say and it will come down to personal taste. Bedrock’s wines are inspired by Morgan’s experiences growing up with a California wine pioneer as a father. He’s been tasting and making wine since he was 10 years old and it’s clear that his palate is expansive and well tested (he is a Master of Wine after all). Tasting Bedrock, be it his syrah, rosé, zinfandel or whatever, evokes some of the true masters and classics in the category. Indeed, Bedrock Syrahs (with liberal but purposeful use of new oak) have always conjured images of Guigal in my mind. Pax on the other hand is more of an auteur. His wine though unbearably familiar, never quite seems like anything else.
The closest comparison I can make is to Allemand, a cult wine icon that commands hundreds of dollars per bottle. It took decades of unthanked work before Allemand got the respect he deserved, yet the wines are unchanged. He still farms everything himself, gently foot-treading each fermenter carefully, forgoing the use of sulfites. Allemand’s wines are on a completely different wavelength than nearly anyone else. Pax is the same way. And I know, because I drink more of his wine than anyone you will meet. Below are my tasting notes for the vintages and bottles I’ve tasted recently.
If you have not tasted the beautiful wines of this site, I urge you to seek them out. You will not be disappointed.
TASTING NOTES
I’ve done my best to taste every vintage of Griffin’s I could find. Most of these I bought off auction websites. Later vintages are straight from my local distributor. Some of these bottles are in my possession but have not been opened yet. I will continue to update this list as I taste them.
2002 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
Fully matured and developed. Alcohol shows slightly but comes across as kirsch cherry on the nose, contrasted by notes of bacon fat and bloody, meaty, iron notes. Huge mid palate that’s soft and expansive. The fruit has faded into a more vegetative earthy quality.
2003 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
Stewed dark berry fruit, full bodied and showing a richness and weight that was probably absent in it’s youth. Some fat and bacon notes, but more tobacco and black pepper than the 2002 vintage.
2004 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
Powerful and structured with more tannin than the previous two vintages. Again, bloody, smokey and masculine. Plenty of black pepper, sage and spice with a minimized sense of fruit.
2005 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
Dark and deep with blackberry and boisonberry notes contrasted by an iron-like quality. Quite classic.
2008 Wind Gap Griffin’s Lair Syrah
2010 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
One of the best wines I have had this year and certainly the best domestic Syrah. Everything that Syrah can offer is here in full effect and well integrated. Black olive, bacon fat, and green peppercorn spice. The alcohol is modest, preserving the acidity. The finish is beautiful with extremely fine-grained tannins, and spice notes that linger.
2011 Bedrock Griffin’s Lair Syrah
The first non-Pax Griffin I tasted, and very different than I expected. Much more oak — not necessarily in a bad way — but in a way that changes the tone of the wine. Solid, structured and dark. The oak works as a containing element here, hiding some of the pepper and game notes but creating a seamless wine of exquisite polish. Very Guigal like.
2011 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
2012 Arnot-Roberts Griffin’s Lair Syrah
2012 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
This 2012 is a perfect example of just how good it can get. More “Cornas” than “Cote Rotie”, it’s not as elegant as the most famous French Syrahs, but it doesn’t have to be! Instead, the power is simply stunning. There’s absolutely no fat. No extra ripeness. No over blown oak. No decadent opulence or gimmicky fruit. This is pure, unadulterated wine that gives everything great about Syrah in a sublime fashion. Unique to this vintage is amazing tannin structure, making me think this will be the longest lived vintage I’ve tasted.
2014 Bedrock Griffin’s Lair Syrah
2014 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
Deep and intense. There’s a subtle volatile quality that pops the fruit forward. Dark and dense strawberry and boysenberry. The wine is no where near it’s full potential and you can sense that it’s going to age wonderfully. Blood and iron here too. Some green pepper corn, but not as peppery as the 2010 or 2012.
2015 Pax Griffin’s Lair Syrah
