Firstly I created the circuit I will be using to make my lamp. I worked on exploring different fastening options for the wires. The aluminum crimping system works alright, I dont like it for its lack of grace. The joint is large and non flexible, also I am worried that applying it will possibly harm the individual components that make up the circuit. For now, durring initial stages of the desing process, I have resolved to use a sytem of twisted wires and electrical tape. This sytem has a lot of issues but I do not plan on applying to my final piece so those things don’t matter. I plan to solder and heat-shrink my final circuit. This method is the “professional” way for good reason. It is small, doesn’t take up much more space than the actual wire. It is flexible, heat-shrink has very similar flexibility as wire insulation so again as a process deosn’t change any of the preperties. It is strong, the electrical connection is total and cannot be pulled or twisted apart.
My initial ideas surrounding the physical and visual desing of the lamp went something like this.
I am using the corner of this cube as a switch, when spun the small murcury switch inside rotates on the inside surface of the cube so it goes from the on to off position in only one sixth of a turn.
I made sure the switch stayed on position by shaoping the corner of the cube out of foam and cutting out a small crevace for it to live on so when spun there was no way for it to get dislodged from it appropriate placement and sabotage it’s function.
I used this assembly as a full lamp by putting the guts inside the large portion of the cube.
I am also going to expand on this by playing with other ways of using this as only the switch and designing a setelite lamp head, a second piece to the assembly that creates the light.
Also as of right now the joint for the switch is not ideal. I need to find a wider diameter tubing that I will use to reinforce that joint and sort of similar to the foam core blackberry you showed us add a plane to the end inside the large part of the cube to use as a regulatory device on radially instead of linearly. Strengthening this joint and limiting its movement will also do the job of protecting the cable coming from the switch inside of the corner, I am very affraid that turning the corner without properly cradling these wires will break them of of the switch element extremely quickly because they are very fragile.
In class I explored a bunch of sattelite lighting fixture options, I also played with the color of the light.
I saturated tracing paper with different brown copic colors and wrapped the LED’s with that paper. Thisslightly tints the light a softer color but also diffuses it much more evenly then the uncovered LED, elliminating any possible rings or things like that that may project onto the paper shapes if un-diffused LED’s are used.
I did the same with a deep pink copic, I think the light it produces is really stunning especially when aspplied to differnet fixtures but I am not so certain of whether or not it follows the project guidlines.
I also built the a few of the fixtures I have been talking about.
This is an origami baloon made with tracing paper. I think it is beuitiful and would look really nice either hung or put up on some sort of dainty stem but before I do that I am going to experiement with creating my own original 3D shape.
This is the second fixture I made. I am much less happy with this one. It is not as well made and is also just a very odd unconfortable chunky design. While I am not giving up on it to revisit this idea will need almost a complete redesign. It’s really just a thing i quickly mocked up in class because why not.
Today I wanted to try and execute a full design, meaning I wasn’t going to use my cube-corner-switch. So I made an orange slice. Essentially its a paper orange slice and one of the flat surafaces, the inside that would be touching other orange slices not the peel, is made from tracing paper so tha tlight shines thru. When that face is asgainst the table the light is off and when you flip the shape up to reveal the juicy delicious inside warm rays of light some with that experience.
For my next step I want to focus on playing with 3D tracing paper shapes that look interesting in normal light and have different layerings so when they are illuminated from the inside they have dimension in the form of veried levels of luminance, like the origami balloon just not the origami balloon.
And also work on the joint on my cube-corner-switch.
Talked to steve in class. I need to make a cube-corner-switch that is really clean. It needs to be unbelievable, look like a solid black of paper I can and will do that. Possibly more importantly I need to work on idea for a different shape. Some shape that lends its self to be static in a dissonant and completed shape (broken and fixed) like the cube but possibly better. Something more dissonant when in that stage and more satisfyingly fixed when turned on. Also could just be visually different, less plain, could also allow for less perfect craftmanship. I am actaully pretty excited to work on making a stunningly perfect cube though.
For class I made a close to perfect cube. I used foam core and mitered the joints by hand with my exacto. I invisibly joined it from the inside with hot glue. I made the axis for the turning corner with a large diameter aluminum tube and used hot glue to secure the tilt switch inside the corner.
I also created the system to stop the switch in on and off position and not let it spin freely.
Basically I created two stopping positions and a post coming out of the axis, I made the whole system out of smaller diameter tube and globs of glue. When I gave the finished product to people for them to try they did their best to spin the corner around full turn, and they were succesfull, the system broke like four times. I decided that people wanted to turn it freely and do their best to find the on and off positions on their own, also I don’t think there would be any way for me to super securly make a stopping mechanism for the knob with my materials, time, and tools. So I’m scrapping that for the final.
I mounted the lights on a structure inside, scrapping the external fixture idea, and commiting to making one side of the cube translucent. I also brushed up the surface of each bulb to more evenly difuse the light and prevent 2 clear circled of light from showing up on that translucent surface.
I found this wood backed paper and sanded the paper off of the back of the wood to allow more light to show thru.
So I needed to make a new lamp today, hopefully my final, because the accuracy a perfectness of my cube was really compromised by me fixing the messed up internals four times. I changed my material from foam core to a four ply board i actually don’t remeber what it’s called. I chose it because it was cheap, I think it will be easier to controll in the mitering process than foam core, and its a warmer white than the all the other board in the store so it will better accompany my wood lighting surface also Steve mentioned that foam core is just not an appropriate material for models of this size and he is absolutely correct. My problem now is that the light is very cool and wont match the warmness of my wood and board surfaces, Beth did an amazing job warming up the light so I am going to talk to her about how I should do it for mine, until then I am keeping the wood surface of the cube open so I can make any changes to internal mechanism and that warmth change before I finish the cube and make all the joints clean.
I was worried about how free my old corner was turning after I removed the stopping mechanism. To combat this problem I pulled the wires connected to the tilt switch tought and glued them to the bottom of the cube, I creates a nice amount of friction between the corner and the main cube so it stops in whatever position you leave it in and the action is really nice.
Also because for a bunch of reasons I didn’t solder instead I went with twisting wire connections together and inserting them into the hot end of my hot glue gun to connect the wires and insulate them.
This is where I’m at right now. Hopefully won’t have any trouble finishing this for tuesday.
Today I resanded a second wooden panel and attached the frame to the inside to essentially hide the attachment system. I also worked on warming the light.
The panbel on the left casts a light too orange and the right doesnt effect the light enough. They are both pieces of tracing paper with colored copic applied to both sides.
This is the panel I attached, it is tracing paper with a thin layer of acrilic paint I got from Tammar after Beth told me thats what she used. The light it casts is really nice but becasue I over mitered the edges of the form the corners are not as thick as the faces and light leaks.
I packed tracing paper into the spaces and made a thick paper shield to correct the light leak but once I got the whole system assembled there was some sort of problem caused by all the paper putting pressure on the wires. I had to remove a panel both from the knob and the cube. I think I fixed the problem by removing all those things, because I removed the panels some of the joints are not as tight as I would like but there is nothing other than totally remaking the light that could fix that. Just in case I’m trying to minimize my use of the lamp because I believe if I turn it too much It’s possible the tension in the wires that creates a smooth turn could be compromised.
Took my final photos, very happy with the craft, light, and interaction.
Those wires that I tensioned, the ones connecting the knob and flip switch tore. From too much spinning. A problem I was aware could arise but I was hoping the hot glued joints would prevent. Turns out I did not totally cover the joint and there was a weak point where the now untwisted wires easily tore under the pressure.
I am going to redo this joint in preperation for the show but because my images are already taken not for class tomorrow. I need to remove a panel from both pieces again, I hope to remake those panels so that when I reconnect them I don’t sacrifice any of my crisp edges to residual hot glue, a very hard problem to work around.