Food Culture of Baja — La Comida de Baja

Baja is currently going through a food renaissance led by Ensenda. Young and old chefs alike have realized that they can have their own identity rather than copying french or Italian cuisine. Referred to as “Cachanilla” by their mainland Mexican cousins, Baja has its own sense of independence, even in its food culture. “Cachanilla” is a type of flowering bush that grows in harsh rocky desert areas usually near cactus. To the people of Baja, the flowers represent hope and strength in the face of adversity, a symbol of their relationship with mainland Mexico and the rest of the world.

Abundant with natural resources, Baja is unique geographic region providing a prosperous coastline for seafood, rich mountains perfect for growing grapes for wine and a variety of produce, and flat prairies perfect for raising free range livestock. The year round temperate weather means there is not an off-season for fantastic local food experiences.

Just slightly north of downtown Ensenada, Guadalupe Valley is exploding with wine and food culture. Accelerated by the growth of the local wineries bringing in tourism, Guadalupe Valley has some of the most exciting restaurants serving locally sourced food.

Here are just five of the recent restaurants that I have been introduced to. These aren’t your typical Baja taco stands but trust me, all these restaurants are worth stopping in for. Get off the beaten path and experience the true Baja.

Deckman’s
Hang a left just after you pass the toll booth before Ensenada onto highway 3 on the “Ruta de Vino” towards Valley De Guadalupe and about 12.5 miles up on the right your will find Deckman’s. Absolutely awesome food in a stunningly natural outdoor setting, this is Baja food at its best. All fresh local ingredients are prepared primarily via wood fired grill by Michelin stared Chef, Drew Deckman. This is the way food should be made and this is what Deckman has dedicated his life to — using the best locally sourced ingredients. Try the quail, lamb, seafood, local beer, and Mezcal. This is slow, not fast food.

Website — http://deckmans.com

Malva
Just before Deckman’s on the right side of Highway 3 is Roberto Alcocer Zardain’s Malva. Voted best new restaurant in all of Mexico in 2014, Malva is nestled within the Mina Penelope winery and features a beautiful rustic outdoor dinner area over looking rows of grapevines. Alcocer has been fusing the fresh foods of Baja together with bold creativity. Many ingredients come directly from the surrounding ranch and the menu changes with what’s available. Go with the 7–10 course meal and you wont be disappointed. It’s like taking a culinary trip around Baja with French, Spanish, and even Asian influences.

Website — http://malvarestaurant.com

Hacienda Corralito
After a night of partying, there is nothing better than a big flavorful Mexican breakfast. Corralito’s is a fantastic little local spot that features and outdoor garden dinner area. It’s little hard to find, as it’s tucked one street East off the Highway 1 but trust me, it’s worth the trouble. Built inside an old car wash, the place looks rugged on the outside but once you enter a beautiful courtyard opens up into a country chic setting. The food is fresh and the service and setting are great. The traditional Mexican plates are the best, like the Huevos Rancheros, Chilaquiles, Machaca Con Huevos or the Omelette de Cameron.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/hacienda-corralito-el-sauzal

Baja Brews
Ok — the food here is more to soak up all the good beer but this is a really cool idea. It’s a beer collective — six different breweries under one roof plus a little food. How can you go wrong? You can get everything from your basic pilsner to some pretty wild experimental beers.

Ophelia
You have probably passed it a hundred times. After you pass through final tool booth into Ensenada, about two miles up just off to the right on the Highway 1 is Ophelia. Tucked away into a small plaza, Ophelia is the culinary lab of Rosendo Ramos. His creativity is matched only by his wine selection on local and international wines. The relaxed atmosphere and local art hanging on the walls adds to the dining experience. From the fresh local oysters, to the grilled octopus and on to the rack of lamb, you won’t be disappointed by the variety in the selection. We ordered multiple plates and shared family style to try a little bit of everything.