Abbuoto: Italy’s Vanishing Red Grape
Cultivars such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, often steal the thunder from lesser-known local varietals. One Country which has no shortage of indigenous cultivars is the old world nation of Italy.
More famous for its Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Barbera and Montepulciano, Italy comes loaded with a heap of lesser-known varietals, that you likely haven’t heard of or tasted. In this article, we are looking at the Central Italian grape called Abbuoto. This red gem is prevalent in the region of Lazio. It is high in alcohol content and phenolics. Phenolics are compounds that contain acids, tannins and flavonoids, which makes the grape an excellent companion for blending. A search on Vivino returned only one bottle of single cultivar Abbuoto, the Filari San Raffaele Abbuoto, from Monti Cecubi in Lazio.
Wine Origin
The Abbuoto cultivar hails from the outskirts of Frosinone, in Lazio. Nobody knows for sure when the first vines were discovered or propagated, and some scholars claim that Abbuoto was the main ingredient in the ancient Roman wine, Caecubum. As a result, the word Cecubo mistakingly became a synonym for Abbuoto. In her book “Wine Grapes” no-nonsense Jan Robinson sets the record straight, pointing out that Caecubum was a style of white wine, while Abbuoto is a red grape, and could not have been the main ingredient.
Growing and Harvesting
We have learnt that Abbuoto is from Lazio, central Italy. However, a small percentage of vines are present in the North-West of the Country. There are less than fifty hectares of the cultivar planted across Italy, and it continues to decline. Between 2000 and 2019 there has been a 95% reduction of Abbuoto vines planted. How long until these vines vanish from the hills of central Italy?
The berries they produce are medium to large and come with a thick outer layer of skin, giving it a high alcohol content. The grapes tend to ripen in early to mid-October when the berries become dark in colour, at this point harvesting commences, and the grapes move on to the cellar and are crushed. The juice will spend seven to ten days with the skins, before being separated. At this point, the juice from the berries is transferred to an oak barrel for six months to mature. When the wine reaches this point, it is bottled and stored away for a further six months, before it is ready for sale.
The Taste
Abbuoto, as a single cultivar is not for the faint-hearted: it is high in alcohol, giving a kick more powerful than a stubborn mule. These characteristics are the reason producers with Abbuoto vines opt to use it for blending purposes. It is an ideal partner for enhancing the body and alcohol contents of a wine.
A 100% Abbuoto wine will present you with a taste of black cherries, black plums and leather, finished off with a slightly earthy flavour.
Food Pairing
When entertaining potent wines such as Abbuoto, you need to think of heavily flavoured foods which will balance the experience. Hearty meals such as stews, game meat, and aged cheeses partner well with Abbuoto.
Ageability
Should you be more disciplined than I am, and know-how to save your stock, then you will be glad to know that Abbuoto ages well in terms of taste. However, it tends to lose its colour quickly. You should consume it no longer than a decade after its date of creation.
It is evident that Abbuoto is an incredibly rare grape, and the area of planting continues to decline. On your next trip to Central Italy, I challenge you to find a bottle of single varietal Abbuoto. If that quest does not succeed, I suggest heading over to Monti Cecubi to pick up a few bottles of their blended wines where Abbuoto plays a small role. My recommendation would be the Cecubo Vinum Caecubum Rosso. Dark ruby red hues in appearance, cherries on the nose and black plums on the palate give you all the characteristics of a typical Abbuoto wine.
