How a Wandering Tempranillo Thrived in Tuscany
Lush rolling hills, Sangiovese vineyards, and architecture representative of the medieval period signals that we are in Tuscany. A region viewed by the outside world as one for the rich and famous, but in reality, it is humble. Toscana is an agrarian society, that offers an incredible feed and some of the finest reds you will ever indulge.
One particular Agricola, which satisfied my appetite for food and wine, is Pietro Beconcini Agricola. The historic winery lies in the hills of the Chianti region and, is located outside the vibrant village of San Miniato. A place with deep connections to Napoleon Buonaparte. There is another element of history which has contributed to the fame of the Beconcini Agricola.
Cultivar X
The story begins in 1997, with a young Leonardo Beconcini testing different varieties of grapes around the farm. Of course, he encountered Sangiovese, the typical Tuscan cultivar. However, to his surprise, there was one he could not identify, and labelled this varietal as nothing more than “X.”
Cultivar X remained a mystery for nearly a decade, until a breakthrough in 2004 when the Beconcini’s decided it was time to uncover this mystery. They invested in a DNA analysis test, and the results, to everyone’s amazement, came back positive for tempranillo.
Tempranillo gets its name from the Spanish word “Temprano”, which means ‘early’. The grape ripens earlier than others staying true to its name tempranillo. It is most commonly found in the Rioja region of Spain.
In a traditional society like Italy, how could an alien plant grow on land meant for Sangiovese?
Via Francigena
Pietro Beconcini sits along the holy path, known as the via Francigena. This was the pilgrim’s route between Rome and Canterbury, England, with origins dating back to the 6th Century. Rumour has it, that during these pilgrimages seeds were propagated on the land, where the Beconcini’s vineyards lie today.
The Fight To Be Recognised
Since tempranillo was not indigenous to Italy, the powers that be, prohibited it from being grown in Tuscany. Leonardo petitioned the government to add tempranillo to the list of approved cultivars. In 2009 his wish was granted. After all, Leonardo discovered tempranillo on his farm, and it grew well, therefore why not adopt it as a cultivar of Tuscany.
Vigna Le Nicchie
Now that the cultivar was approved, it was time to start making delicious wine. First up is Leonardo’s most complex wine, the Vigna Le Nicchie. When translated from the local Tuscan dialect, it means ‘wine grown in seashells.’ The grapes are selected from a small block of vines immersed in ocean fossils and seashells. They are harvested in the first week of September and dried until late October, helping to balance the tannins, acidity and sugar levels of the wine.
As any red wine with character will tell you, the fermentation stage lasts approximately ten days. After fermentation has run its course, the wine is pumped over to its new home and will undergo maceration for six weeks. Upon the completion of maceration, the new vintage is transferred to 70% French and 30% American oak first-fill barrels. First-fill barrels are brand new and enhance the smoked flavour of red wine. The Vigna Le Nicchie will sit in these barrels for two years until it is bottled and shelved for a further twenty-four months. After it has matured sufficiently, the bottles are then boxed up, and shipped to bodegas and restaurants across the globe.
Ixe
Pietro Beconcini’s Ixe wine pays homage to “cultivar X.” The grapes are sourced from a new generation of tempranillo vineyards planted in 1997. The wine infuses the characteristics of vines from days gone by and today.
The Ixe is fermented in cement vats constructed by Leo and his father. They give the wine a unique flavour during the maceration process, which is distinctive to the Beconcini brand. Post maceration, the wine is transferred to second-fill French and American oak barrels. It will lie here for fifteen months, before being bottled and stored away for a further nine months. At this point, it is mature enough to be sold.
Fresco di Nero
As if the Beconcini’s weren’t adventurous enough for the Tuscan traditionalists, they have also crafted a rosé from the tempranillo vines planted in 1997.
The grapes used to concoct this refreshing beverage, are harvested one month before they ripen, leading to a soft acidity level in the wine. Unlike the full-bodied Ixe and Vigna Le Nicchie, the Fresco di Nero is macerated for a brief period with the skins, after which it is transferred to another tank to mature.
This is a challenging practice, as excessive maceration with the skins, will result in a heavier red wine. Insufficient maceration will leave you with a thin wine, that lacks character and body.
The variety that was once unaccepted in the land of Chianti now grows strong. All thanks to the hard work and dedication of Leonardo Beconcini. Malbec was grown by the Bordelais and perfected by the Argentines. Tannat was planted by the Gascon’s and fine-tuned by the Uruguayans. Finally, Tempranillo was propagated by the Riojans and mastered by the Beconcini’s in Tuscany.
