The possibilities of learning life lessons in surfing seem endless. Every day feels like a chance to draw parallels between life and wave riding. But for me, at least currently, the most apt and important is simply to keep at it — especially when it knocks you down… — Surfing is a mind game. And the problem with games, is that sometimes, you do not win. I think this has been my biggest revelation since I started regularly paddling into the water. A good or terrible surf (there is no real in between) is decided almost before you get…
