This is the fourth installment in a multi-part series of essays by former Lonely Planet China editor Megan Eaves. It’s recommended to read the Prologue first.

Catch up on previous parts:
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
South China Morning Post standalone episode

In 2005, after travelling from Xi’an, at the ancient end of the Silk Road, to the desert oasis of Dunhuang, where monks of bygone times stopped to carve what would become the greatest treasure trove of Buddhist art in the world — the Mogao Grottoes — my travel companion Greg and I boarded a night train into…

Megan Eaves

Writer. New Mexican-Brit. Sinophile. Stargazer. Poet. Mystic. Deserts, darkness, horses, 🌘✨, walking. Formerly Lonely Planet’s NE Asia Editor.

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