REMOTE BEAUTY — Aurora Province, Philippines
(Written October 2011)
The Philippines is known for its world-class beaches dotted all over its 7,107 islands. The country is also known for the warmth and hospitality of its people. Anyone who visited the Philippines has positive experiences and would definitely come back for more.
Being from the Philippines myself, I could attest to the fact that there is so much more to the country than its beaches. There is a lot to explore in my country so; I accompanied my father on a rather off-the-beaten-track trip. Our destination — Casiguran, Aurora Province. Our purpose for the trip was to revisit the indigenous people called the Dumagat whom my father studied for his PhD in Anthropology in 2002.
Aurora Province is located on the remote mountainous northeastern coast of the Philippines. The province is named in honor former First Lady Aurora Quezon who paved the way for its independence from Quezon Province. In February 1979, Aurora became the 73rd province of the country. Its capital is the municipality of Baler.
Aurora is divided into 8 municipalities and the municipality of Casiguran lies at the northern part of the province by the Sierra Madre Mountains. Since we were going somewhere more remote, it is advised to take malaria medicine or shots prior to or during the trip.
And so, here goes my journal for my trip in 2010…
The Adventurista’s Trip
Manila to Casiguran, Days 1 and 2
11:00 PM (Manila)– My dad and I headed from our house in the suburbs of Commonwealth Avenue to the Genesis Bus Station in Cubao, Quezon City for the 1:00AM bus straight to Casiguran. There are no reservations or early bookings for the buses and everything is on a first-come, first-serve basis. The bus to Casiguran has only 2 trips- one at 1AM and the other at 3AM. If you miss these direct buses, you could take any bus going to Baler then take another bus or serviced van going to Casiguran.
1:00 AM (Still in Manila) — The bus arrived on time and we got into our seats for a 13-hour ride up north.
Around 6:00–7:00 AM (going north) — This is where the adventure begins. Misty skies greeted us as we reached Baler. This is a far-cry from the busy urban jungle of Manila.
8:30 AM (Baler to Casiguran) — After eight and a half hours, we stopped over for a short rest and breakfast in Baler before moving further north to Casiguran. Soon as we got back in the bus, the landscape slowly changed. From paved roads and huge highways, the terrain became more rugged as we started our journey into the remote and mysterious beauty of Aurora unseemingly touched by modern civilization.
1:30 PM We arrived at our destination which was the National Commission of Indigenous People (NCIP) Office in Casiguran. The head of the commission graciously hosted us for the first half of our stay and so the journey into the Dumagat people’s lives begin.
Inland Casiguran
Learning About the Dumagat People, Days 3 to 5
Why the interest in the Dumagat People? According to my father, some 40–50 years ago, my late grandfather and three friends were fishing around the Pollilio Islands. There was a storm later on and my grandfather got caught in it. He and his friends were rescued by the Dumagat people and so my family is always grateful to them.
Another reason for the interest is tied in with my father’s PhD studies. Part of the required course work for Philippine Customary Law and Political System is to add to the current framework of documenting custom laws for indigenous people.
After the long trip, we got to settle and I was able to chill and breathe in fresh mountain air and enjoy fresh food and drinks I don’t usually have in Manila. For this next part of the trip, I was cut off from the modern world. I didn’t use my laptop or mobile phone except for some important text messages to my mom and sister. My dad and I for most part used our cameras, pens and papers to document our trip.
For the next days in our trip, we went around the town to visit and check on the progress of my father’s subjects — the Dumagat people. After 10 years, the place has seen so many changes to improve the people’s lives. 10 years ago, electricity, running water and paved roads were totally scarce in the place. Now, there is electricity, running water, paved roads and even internet, cable TV and mobile communication. Electricity and running water are scheduled but at least, lives of both the Dumagat and the Tagalogs (one of the Philippines’ major ethnic groups) and other groups have improved with these initiatives.
However, despite these improvements, the Dumagat people haven’t forgotten their traditions and have integrated these into modern life. Most of them still live in their traditional mobile hut homes, they still enjoying chewing on “nganga” or tobacco leaves. They also enjoy pretty much the same rights and services like the rest of the Casiguran population. The Dumagats have been living harmoniously with everyone.
Hiking, Island Hopping and Manny Pacquiao
Days 6 and 7
Day 6 — Our trip to Casiguran moved further to outlying islands to check on more Dumagat people. From the NCIP, we moved a guest house for the remainder of our trip. The guest house is conveniently located in the middle of town so it’s easier for us to travel.
The first order of business when we moved to the guest house was to check out the hills. This involved a whole lot of walking and hiking up and down steep hills, steep stairs and rocky roads. Here I learned more about daily life in Casiguran. It’s very idyllic, highly agricultural and still quite behind. The people don’t seem to mind this. They just go about their business and things seem to work in this area and the locals are content with whatever they have.
After our hike and walk around hills, we went to the docks and booked our boat for the next day to the more remote areas where the Dumagats live. Everything stopped after our walk by lunchtime. The whole nation from all walks of life was watching our ‘national fist’, boxer Manny Pacquiao against Mexican boxer Miguel Cotto.
Later in the afternoon, my father and I went on another tour around the town. This time, we distributed framed photographs my father and I took of the Dumagat and the community back in 2002 to the subjects themselves.
Day 7 — My dad and I took an early morning walk and jog around town. We went to take our scheduled boat to the farther part of Casiguran to meet with the other Dumagats. The trip took about 2 hours from the main town and it was all shades of blue and green of the Philippine Sea. When we arrived by the other part of the island, only a few Dumagats are there. This area is more remote and prone to malaria. Most of them moved to the main town and the structures built there have been mostly abandoned and relocated. The ones who remained prefer the peace and quiet of the mountains. We spent the time talking to my dad’s contacts there and went back in time to see the beautiful sunset in this remote place.
The Road Less Travelled
Casiguran to Manila, Days 8 and 9
Around 9AM — We woke up to a slight rainshower and had to get moving for our 1PM trip back to Manila. The trips back to Manila could be the direct bus that leaves at 3AM and 5AM and if you missed that one out, you can take two trips. The first trip is the hourly van to Baler (the capital of Aurora) and the next trip is a bus from Baler to Manila.
While waiting for the van, I spent the time exploring and photographing the area one more time. I would say this trip has me more in touch with nature and it has made me learn how to survive and be content with what I have in life. The life in this part of the country has opened my eyes to a simpler and happier life compared to the busy city life. For the locals and indigenous people in Casiguran, it is important to keep the harmony and balance in the community.
1PM — We started the long journey back to Manila. Along the way, there are a lot of things that still needs to improve like the roads and other infrastructures. It is impressive that in the years since our first trip there that effort has been made to connect this remote area to the rest of the country. It takes a certain strength to take this journey as it is no leisurely feat to brave the terrains of the Sierra Madre Mountains.
After midnight — We arrive home safe, sound and travel weary. I came back home feeling like a road warrior. Another adventure has wrapped up and I’m looking forward to the next, may it be in the Philippines or somewhere else.
