Do You Even Gumbo?

Michael Jackson Chaney
6 min readAug 24, 2020

I like gumbo… a lot.

Gumbo cannot be made in an Instantpot. It cannot be made from something sold in a box labeled “Gumbo base”. It takes time. It is an event. And it’s worth the effort.

Gumbo is a process. It’s as much a verb as it is a noun. Every time I make a gumbo it’s an improvisation from the heart. I don’t use a written recipe. Instead, I simply cook from memory, feeling my way through the process. It’s just the way I’ve always done it and over time, after countless efforts, I’ve stumbled into an approach that delivers on expectations and yet still leaves room for discovery. This means that every time I make gumbo it always turns out a little different from the last one. This is most likely because I don’t always measure the ingredients, I use what’s available, and the roux depends on what kind of fat I have on hand. Nonetheless, I’ve attempted to write down my “recipe” because people eat the gumbo I make and say things like “Damn! That’s good! How do I make this?”

So, here you go.

Before you begin here’s a pro tip. Slow down and prepare for an adventure. Spend some time and prep your ingredients ahead of cooking. Chop the vegetables finely. Don’t go chunky. Slice up that okra and set it aside. Peel the shrimp and reserve the shells. Dice up that chicken and put it in a bowl. Get your proverbial ducks in a row and relax.

And remember, the secret to a great gumbo is the perfect roux! It can not be rushed. One must exercise patience. This is delicious but it’s going to take a while. Get some good music ready and put a couple of beers on ice.

Ingredients

The roux

  • ⅔ c fat like bacon grease or vegetable/canola oil
  • ¾ c all purpose flour

The veggies (The Cajun “trinity”)

  • 2 small or 1 large onion
  • 3–4 ribs of celery
  • 1 bell pepper
  • 4–5 cloves garlic

(These should all be diced very very fine- thrown em all in a food processor if you one.)

  • 2 cups of okra cut into ½" slices
  • 2 T vinegar (optional)
  • 2 T vegetable oil (optional)
  • 6- 8 cups of chicken or shrimp stock

The meat

For chicken and sausage gumbo

  • 1.5 lb chicken chopped into small pieces.
  • 1 lb andouille or smoked sausage cut into 1” slices

For seafood gumbo

  • .5 lb of andouille or smoked sausage cut into 1” slices
  • 1 lb shrimp peeled (reserve shells)
  • 8 oz c of crab claw meat
  • 8 oz container of raw oysters (with liquor)

Seasoning

  • 2 t sugar
  • 2 t Creole seasoning (like Tony Chachere’s)
  • 1 t thyme
  • Pinch of cayenne
  • Pinch of salt
  • A few grinds of fresh black pepper

(mix the dry ingredients together in a small bowl and set aside)

  • 3 bay leaves
  • ½ finely chopped parsley
  • 2 T Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 14.5 oz can of crushed tomatoes

Garnish

  • Steamed white rice (about ½ c per serving)
  • Sprigs of fresh parsley
  • Sliced green onions
  • Crystal hot sauce (There is no other)
  • Gumbo filé powder (optional)

THE PROCESS

Your work surface is gonna look something like this.

Step 1: Brown the meat

If you’re making a chicken and andouille/sausage gumbo begin by browning the meat with a little oil in a soup pot . The idea is just to release the flavor and some fat from the meat. 2 or 3 minutes per side is fine. Remove the meat from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside. Keep the fat in the pot. If you’re making a seafood gumbo just brown the andouille /sausage in this step.

Step 2: Make the stock

While the meat is browning make some stock. If you’re using shrimp, put the shells in a pot, cover with 2 or 3 cups water, and turn on the heat. When it begins boiling I throw in some chicken bouillon cubes to make a concentrate. You’ll want this to eventually make 6 cups of stock.

Step 4: The roux — THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP

AGAIN: This is the most important step! It cannot be rushed!

Add the oil and/or bacon grease to the pot you used to brown the sausage. You can add some butter but be careful, butter can burn. Leave this on the heat for 2–3 minutes on med low. When it’s good and hot add the flour and get to work. You’re going to stir this for the next 30 minutes or more. Use a wire whisk or a wooden spoon with a flat edge. Scrape the bottom frequently. You’re basically cooking the flour in the oil until you get a rich nutty aroma and the mixture turns about the same color as a dark copper penny. Remember, keep the heat low. Listen to some music (Professor Longhair or The Meters). Drink a beer.

If you burn the roux throw it out and start over. Your gumbo is screwed.

Step 5 (optional): Sauté okra

I personally love slimy okra. I get it, though. Slimy okra’s not for everybody. I tried the following technique and had great results with refining the texture and reducing the slime factor.

Heat the 2 T. oil and 2 T. vinegar in a saucepan. Add the okra and sauté for 10–15 mins on med/low heat. Remove the okra with a slotted spoon and set aside.

Step 6: Add the trinity and garlic.

When the roux is perfectly brown and nutty add the trinity: celery, onion, bell pepper, and garlic. Now start stirring again. Make sure these veggies are all evenly coated with the roux. Cook this for about 15 mins. on med/low.

Step 7: Soup it up!

After the veggies are translucent and have released their flavors it’s time to add the stock. You’ll need a total of 6–8 cups. Start with 6 and assess the consistency. It shouldn’t be watery but it shouldn’t be thick and stew-ish either. If you made shrimp stock pour the stock into the pot through a strainer.

Stir in the dry seasoning mix, the Worcestershire, bay leaves, chopped parsley and that can of tomatoes.

Add the andouille/sausage. If you’re using chicken go ahead and add it in now. If you’re using seafood then wait! DON’T ADD THE SEAFOOD YET! You’ll add it in with the okra later.

Let this cook on medium for 45–60 minutes. Listen to some Clifton Chenier.

Some funky frothy fat might rise to the top. Skim it off and get rid of it. You don’t want that crap in your gumbo.

After about an hour taste the gumbo and season as necessary. You may want a little more Creole seasoning or thyme but don’t over-do it. Resist the urge to add salt.

Step 8: Add the okra and the seafood.

After the fist round of cooking add the okra to the pot.

If you’re making a seafood gumbo now’s the time to add your seafood. Add the peeled shrimp, the crab meat, and the oysters with the liquor. Stir it up. Now, let it continue to cook for another 45 mins. Stir it frequently. Go deep. Scrape the bottom of the pot frequently. Skim off that funky frothy fat if it appears and toss it.

Step 9: Make the rice.

While gumbo cooks wash the rice in water until it runs clear. Add 3 cups of rice and 3 cups of water to a rice cooker or Instantpot or cook on the stove top on low for 20 minutes.

Step 10: Serve it up

After the seafood cooks on low for 45 minutes things should smell amazing and the gumbo should have a smooth consistency. Have a taste. Mmmm, that’s good, isn’t it?

Ladle the gumbo into bowls. Add a ½ c scoop of white rice in the middle. Garnish with parsley sprigs and chopped green onions.

Crystal Hot Sauce is the recommended hot sauce. I’m not interested in debating this.

You can also add gumbo filé powder to individual portions. Filé is ground sassafras leaves and adds a fantastic flavor as well as working as a thickening agent.

Do NOT add filé powder to the pot (I know, some people do but it will make your gumbo stringy when you re-heat left-overs).

Boom! You gumboed. Share it with somebody you love.

Serve it up!

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Michael Jackson Chaney

Filmmaker, artist, educator, and Episcopal priest. You can find my homilies here. (What’s the difference between a homily and a sermon? Oh, about ten minutes.)