Pamir Highway Part 2
Always Top Notch Hospitality
We woke early with the sound of a rushing river beneath us for day two. With a quick breakfast and repack, we were on our way. We had things to accomplish.
First was a short drive southeast, where an abrupt left turn led us up a very steep switch-backed incline to a partly restored 3rd century fort. After some mild speculation and a quick look-around, we descended back down the hill, seeing Afghanistan again on the far side of the river.
Speaking of Afghanistan, as part of the tour, we were planning to enter Afghanistan at Sultan Eshkashim on day five. But due to some unexplainable delay in getting our e-visas (which should have only taken 24–48 hours), we still were not approved to re-enter Tajikistan after our Afghan side trip. Afghanistan was not going to happen, and it was Tajikistan’s doing.
With this stirring in the back of our minds, we tried focusing on the task at hand, which included navigating a stuck 18-wheeler on a river bridge crossing, and finding some lunch.
After a mediocre meal (meat was the menu) and a hilarious exchange bartering with the restaurant owner, we arrived at our next home stay. Home stay-style accommodation is primarily the case in the Pamirs, and is a lovely way to get to know the culture and the people a little more intimately. Some of the stays are more western in style, some of them more traditional Pamir, with a blend of Ismaili culture thrown in for good measure. Then we received some interesting information – there was a Tajik wedding being held in the back yard of the place we were staying! After a light dinner, we ventured up to check it out, only to find that their hospitality extended far beyond the home stay. They had saved us a table up at the front, and proceeded to serve us with all of the tea and food you’d need for days. The music was a mix between a sort of upbeat western electronic beat, with an Arabic/Persian tone. All of the music was performed live – vocals, piano, two drummers – as is tradition. It was an excellent (and alcohol-free!) environment for the entire family.
Shortly after settling at our table, people were encouraging us to get on the dance floor with them, and as you may know about me, I’m never afraid to make myself look silly on a dance floor. I do it often.
Well, we ended up spending the next 3 hours partying with locals and having a blast. And OG Grandma, if you’re reading this (you aren’t), thank you for your enthusiasm and for shoving the children out of your way on the dance floor.
You’re a superstar.
The next day was another early rise, as we continued on the tight roads south towards Jizeu, a valley of small villages accessible only by foot, or donkey. After crossing a simply terrifying foot bridge across a river into the valley, it was a 7km unshaded hike to the remote village where we were staying. It was a stunning endeavour, surrounded by tall snow-capped peaks, beautiful colours, led by our wonderful local guide. We reached the village and arrived to some delicious green tea and snacks, provided by the owner of the homestay, an older man with a great proficiency in English, especially given he only started learning three years ago!
A short rest later, we hiked further up the valley to lakes and natural springs. At this stage, our technology was useless.
You are totally cut off.
We arrived at the upper lake to meet what felt like the entire community, and we were invited (it was insisted) to go into one of the homes to eat dinner, to celebrate Eid-al-adha. It was yet another amazing cultural experience, and the locals really seemed to enjoy having us there, watching us try to follow suit on everything they were doing.
After this wholesome dinner, while on our way back down to our beds in the lower village, I took the time to ask our gracious host a little about Tajikistan. I asked about the Pamir people first, who originally came from Iran a long time ago, and migrated north. In school they learn Tajik, Russian, English, and sometimes a little Pashtun, depending on the circumstance. He has a fondness for Russia, due to the Russian military coming to the rescue during previous Afghan advances from across the river. He talked with regret about the young people (mostly men) who leave the Pamir to go to Russia, generally Moscow, in search of opportunities. He spoke about the difficulty of assimilating into a metropolis, and the prohibitive up-front costs of such a move. Lastly, he discussed his distinction of being an Ismaili Muslim, and the huge help the Aga Khan Foundation provided to the area when the Soviet Union fell in the early 90s, with food and other essentials.
We arrived back to our accommodations for the night and settled in, except unfortunately for American Mike; he was having some real GI issues (all too common among travellers to Central Asia!).
There was also no word about our visa e-visa either, and no way to check.
Time was counting down.
Next: Afghanistan, Visited
