Six favorite places to sleep in National Parks
I haven’t been to all 58 National Parks — just under half, by my counting. So this list is incomplete. But of the parks I’ve been to there are a handful of lodges or campsites where spending the night is on the high side of special — where I’ve slept in complete amazement at the beauty that surrounds me. These are my favorites (so far) and all are inside a park.
The Doll House, Maze District, Canyonlands National Park, Utah
I’ve never been to a place harder to reach in a vehicle than the Doll House. It is at least seven hours from the nearest gas station and mostly at walking speed on the Flint Trail, a tough 4x4 “road” that will test your vehicle and your ability to simply hang on. But you’ll be driving through the startling Land of Standing Rocks and when you finally arrive you will have a spot like this to yourself; there are just three widely-separated jeep camping sites. There are no facilities or water and you must bring your own porta-potty. But that backcountry toilet can be moved to an overlook where you can gaze down to the Colorado River while taking care of business. You can also hike to the river 1,260' below you if you are bold. This is a spectacular and remote place to camp and does not work as a weekend trip: you’ll need a few days, a permit from the NPS ($30), a vehicle with high clearance, low range gearing, aggressive tires, skid plates, and extra cans of gas. Your base will be Green River, Utah. But it is worth the effort and getting there is half the fun.
Sperry Chalet, Glacier National Park, Montana
Are you more of a Glamper than a Camper? Maybe you can’t sleep soundly in a tent with the real possibility of bears nearby? Then Sperry Chalet is for you. Sperry is a high lodge in Glacier only accessible via foot. You’ll work reasonably hard to hike in via the 6.7 mile, 3,300' elevation gain trail from Lake McDonald. But you’ll be hiking light — just you, maybe a tad of just-in-case clothing, snacks and bare/bear necessities — everything else is provided. There isn’t electricity but there is a dining room for breakfast and dinner, and they’ll even provide sack lunches for day hiking up to Gunsight Pass or Sperry Glacier. Just two chalets remain at Glacier of the many once built by the Great Northern Railroad to entice people to travel here — by train of course. You can still see the GNR initials in the photo above; you get a bit of history along with your outdoor fix. $220 per night first person, $150 each additional person in the same room. Meals included.
Bright Angel Lodge, Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona
Millions of people visit the south rim of Grand Canyon all year long; you will not be lonely at the Bright Angel Lodge. But if you opt for one of the cheap rooms ($93 per night, shared bath) you can experience park accommodations the old way — meeting new friends as you carry towels down to the shower at the end of the hall. Built in 1935 and a Registered National Historic Landmark, the cheap rooms exude history and character. But you can also upscale to a rim-side cabin with fireplace (still only $207). Skip the summer and head here the other three seasons for scenery, backpacking, and a historical park experience. I’ve stayed here many times to bookend a backpacking trip, and it is a perfect place to end a multi-day trek on the trail. First time backpacking recommendation? Skip the Bright Angel and Kaibab trails (and their crowds), and hike the Hermit down to Granite Rapids. There you can camp on a sandy beach and have a good chance of mooching beer and brats from guided river groups.
Roosevelt Lodge, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming
Yellowstone is stuffed with historic lodges. My favorite summer lodge is the Roosevelt, another throwback to the days of family vacations in woody station wagons where the third row of seats faced backward. That means reasonable prices ($89) and although you’ll have a rustic private cabin with fireplace, you’ll also have a shared bath/shower building a walk away. In the evening sit on the deck in a rocker and enjoy a beer with the fading light as they call dining reservations by city or country. Table for two from Ireland? Roosevelt is on the north side of the park but still on the Grand Loop and near Tower Falls — easy accessibility to Mammoth as well.
Old Faithful Snow Lodge, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming
As I said, Yellowstone is lodge-stuffed. My other pick in the first National Park is the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, which sits just across a large parking area from the Inn, shown here (the Inn is closed in the winter). You get to the Snow Lodge only via snow-coach or snowmobile, so the crowds of summer have vanished and there is a feeling of exclusivity as you wander the halls of the comfortable, modern-rustic, well insulated hotel. Outside you can cross-country ski from the door and even ice skate by an outdoor fire pit. The geysers are particularly stunning in winter as they spew clouds of vapor in the dry, cold air. All kinds of ski/snowshoe, snow-coach or snowmobile tours are available from the lodge or you can just walk outside for the geyser loop hike. At the end of the day you return to a warm room and full service dining. ($315 for a king room with private bath)
The Starr, Kenai Fjords National Park, Alaska
The Starr is not part of the NPS, but you won’t be getting to the Fjords without some help — they are not accessible by car. Most people get a glimpse of the Fjords on a tour boat with a hundred other people, but your group of six can have the Starr to yourselves along with personalized guiding via sea kayak and three prepared meals a day for as many days as you want. One night keeps you in Resurrection Bay, two nights takes you to Aialik Bay, while more nights will get you to Northwestern Lagoon or points further west. Kayak as much as you want (you need to kayak to get close to the glaciers) or just sight-see from the deck. The bunks are a little tight (this is not a cruise ship), but you have a head (toilet) close by and you will stay dry if it rains. And it rains here. The Starr isn’t cheap ($1,100 per person for two nights/three days, food inclusive), but then again this is a bucket list kind of trip, not a weekend at the Holiday Inn.
Unordered Honorable Mentions:
Curry Village Tent Cabins, Yosemite
Bryce Canyon Lodge, Bryce
Zion Lodge, Zion
Devil’s Kitchen Campground, Canyonlands
Many Glacier Hotel, Glacier
Jackson Lake Lodge, Grand Teton
El Tovar, Grand Canyon
Granite Rapids Camping, Grand Canyon
Grant Grove Cabins, Sequoia and Kings Canyon
Unordered Bucket List:
White Wolf Tent Cabins, Yosemite
The Ahwahnee, Yosemite
Paradise Inn, Rainier
Inn at Furnace Creek, Death Valley
Jenny Lake Lodge, Grand Teton
Crater Lake Lodge, Crater Lake
Price of Wales Hotel, Waterton Park (Canadian side of Glacier)
Isle Royale Camping, Isle Royale
Dry Tortugas Camping, Dry Tortugas
What should I add?