Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) are the two largest and most well-known cities of Vietnam. From across the world, it might be easy to assume that two large cities in one small Southeast Asian country are going to be fairly similar. In some respects, all of the big cities in Southeast Asia have similarities.
That conversation ends when the comparison is Hanoi vs. Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC). Saying these two cities are similar would be tantamount to suggesting that New York and Los Angeles, or Paris and Marseille, are alike simply because they are in the same country.
Vietnam is not a large country, but it is long. The journey from one end to the other is a tedious one that takes a few days. Most travelers make this journey with stops in various cities and, in doing so, are able to see the gradual changes along the way. By the time you arrive at the other end, it feels like a different country.
Less than 50 years ago, they were different countries.
For most travelers, it’s an either/or situation when it comes to Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. You like one or the other, not both. Not that either city lacks appeal, but after visiting the two largest cities of Vietnam, you, too, will likely have your opinion formed.
Background
Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and the largest city in the northern half of the country. With a population just under 8 million, it is a chaotic city with a surprisingly charming layer of grime, boasting plenty of museums and more than enough government presence. Hanoi has a somewhat seasonal climate, usually hot with a few months that can bring a startling chill for the unprepared traveler. The capital of Vietnam is home to some of the best food in the world.
Ho Chi Minh City may not be the center of politics, but it is the financial center. With an unofficial population usually quoted around the 11–12 million mark, the city is growing larger and wealthier, evidenced by shiny new skyscrapers and towering cranes adding to the skyline each day. The city is hot as hell year-round with food for any appetite. HCMC is home to smiling people and a great launching point for a Southeast Asian wandering.
In the world of backpackers, many say that the people in southern Vietnam are friendlier. Personally, I had no such experiences and found nearly everyone I encountered in Vietnam to be welcoming and friendly people.
Food
This is probably the most important topic in the discussion of these two cities. To begin, it should be noted that the food in Vietnam is among the best in the world. There are few things in life so wonderful as a Vietnamese baguette — it’s at least as good as the original — or a hot bowl of pho from the source. The ingredients are locally sourced and fresh and it seems that every restaurant and food stall is staffed by a trained chef. In truth, Vietnam is one of those places where cooking is in the bones of the people and the fabric of society. The Vietnamese are born into a world with excellent cuisine and continue the tradition with each generation.
So which city, Hanoi or HCMC, has the better food?
Neither. It would be foolish to claim that one of these cities has better food, but there is a way to compare which one is a better destination for hungry travelers.
Ho Chi Minh City has the advantage of variety. The western influence in the southern megacity brings international demands for new and different cuisine. The city center, with no shortage of local restaurants, has plenty of other options to offer. Restaurant varieties include pizza, American BBQ, Sushi, Cajun and Korean, to name a few.
For the traveler who misses home or needs a break from Vietnamese fare, you don’t have to go far in HCMC to find a McDonald’s, Burger King or Starbucks. By no means is it the United States, but you have a plethora of western fast food options at your beckoning.
Hanoi has the advantage when it comes to street food, prices and ease of finding food. Old Quarter Hanoi is a labyrinth of chaos, shops and most importantly, food. You do not have to go far to find fantastic local food in Hanoi. Sandwiched between the endless street market of fresh produce and recently deceased animals are food stalls, restaurants or even a few plastic chairs around a frying pan. Food is everywhere in Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
Do not expect to find western franchises in Hanoi. They are almost nonexistent, but you won’t even think about it when you’re there. It should be noted, though, that McDonald’s recently opened up it’s first Hanoi location. Hopefully this is an anomaly and not a sign of mass change ahead.
If street food is your thing, 20,000 VND (about $1 USD) can buy you a fresh meal. A REALLY GOOD fresh meal. Street pho is nothing to fear, and bahn mi for less than a dollar is a good thing.
Costs
Ho Chi Minh City is more developed and modern than Hanoi. HCMC is also cleaner and bigger. What this means when it comes to your budget is simple: more expensive. Ho Chi Minh City is not an expensive place to visit, but compared to Hanoi, you should expect to spend more.
As mentioned above, food is more expensive in Ho Chi Minh City. Accommodation also costs more. Even your nice hostel in Hanoi that was less than $10 a night can be double in HCMC.
A reasonable backpacker budget for Hanoi could be as low as $20 USD including food, drink and accomodation. That same 20 bucks in Ho Chi Minh City would likely leave you hungry, thirsty or on the wrong side of comfort at night. If you’re backpacking, beer is part of the budget, so plan accordingly for HCMC. Either fork out the extra few bucks a day or consider a brief hop on the wagon.
Nearby Attractions
For all the glory within these two cities, some would say what is on the outside is equally important. There is no shortage of activities to be found outside these cities. so what noteworthy attractions are nearby?
Ho Chi Minh City is nearby to the Mekong River Delta, a popular trip just outside of town. Also the Cu Chi tunnels, leftover Viet Cong tunnels from the Vietnam War, are not far away and are another popular attraction for tourists. HCMC boasts a larger airport for international travelers and is closer to Phnom Penh (Cambodia), making it an easier border crossing for onward travel.
Hanoi is a short bus ride from Ninh Binh, which is where you can see stunning karst rock formations towering over the surrounding rice fields. This is a natural stopping point for many travelers making the trip from one end of Vietnam to another.
A little farther away is Ha Long Bay. Ha Long Bay should be a priority for any trip to Vietnam. No exceptions. It is like Ninh Binh, except the rice fields and land are replaced with the sea. Massive karst rocks jut out of the water, looming above the touring boats. One can easily spend a few days relaxing by the sea and it is also a nice reprieve from the madness in Hanoi.
Due to Hanoi’s proximity to Ha Long Bay, less than 3 hours’ escape from the Old Quarter, Hanoi has the edge when it comes to area activities for tourists. Note: a visit to Ha Long Bay is not a trip to fill an empty afternoon.
Pollution
Vietnam is dirty. More accurately, Vietnam is really dirty. There are bright spots of cleanliness, but the cities are not those places, especially the big cities.
One of the first things many people notice when coming to Vietnam is the large number of locals wearing masks over their mouths and noses. It’s one thing to visit a place where the water isn’t safe to drink, but when the locals feel the need for protection from the very air they breathe on a daily basis, this is a problem.
There are mountains outside Hanoi which should be visible from balconies and rooftops. In one week in Hanoi, I was never able to determine where these mountains were allegedly located. When it comes to trash cans in Hanoi, there is not a bin in sight. Instead, small piles of garbage accumulate on many streets where people drop their trash. These piles build up and are removed a few times a week. It isn’t the most sanitary system, but it is a better system than some neighboring countries where the only trash removal service is a well-kindled fire.
With a more modern feel, the city center of Ho Chi Minh City is cleaner than Hanoi. To be clear, HCMC is not exactly a clean place. The city may boast a trash can or two, but it is still dirty.
The number of motorbikes in these two cities is astronomical. Estimates on the number of motorbikes in Hanoi range from 2–4 million. Estimates for Ho Chi Minh City are double that number. That staggering number of motorbikes leads to a lot of pollution. Forget the emissions, the noise pollution is what counts. Motorbikes in Vietnam are deafening. 24 hours a day. Even Bangkok will seem like a quiet place after a visit to Vietnam.
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The Verdict
Hanoi is the quintessential Vietnamese city. Food, motorbikes, chaos and mayhem are in full force. In this sense, there is little difference from Ho Chi Minh City.
Ho Chi Minh City has more of an international vibe that will see it become more similar to Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur with each passing year. It’s hot, busy and rapidly modernizing. Standing on a corner in the center of HCMC, you could be any number of places.
When you are in Hanoi, it feels like Vietnam. The blend of architecture in the Old Quarter coupled with the presence of the State and absence of anything western is expected in Vietnam. The historic communist influence is noticeable in Hanoi and, for a traveler, it’s a unique feeling.
Some locals say that Southeast Vietnam has a certain level of economic autonomy, as evidenced by the westernization in Ho Chi Minh City and with the area providing a disproportionate amount of the nation’s GDP. In addition to international business, economic fortune is a draw for many Vietnamese citizens from other parts of the country. This is what makes Ho Chi Minh City different, what is fueling the change.
After visiting each of these cities, you can decide the victor for yourself. As for me, I have an affinity toward Hanoi, as it inexplicably feels more like Vietnam. Perhaps that is due to Hanoi’s being my first stop in Southeast Asia, but maybe Hanoi is holding on to its culture more dearly.
Often those who set out from Ho Chi Minh City north to Hanoi seem to have an opposite perspective, preferring the southern megacity instead. Maybe it just depends on where you start, but after spending time in each city, one thing can be said to sum up the differences between Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City: same same but different.
