Chef on a Tugboat

Jim Milliman
6 min readJun 7, 2023

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A View From the Galley Window: June 7, 2023

What do water, food and semi-retirement have in common?

Somewhere on the lower Mississippi River at sunrise.

I asked that question over a year ago as I set out on this adventure. The adventure is that of riding a tugboat on the Mississippi River as the cook while blogging about the experience.

I was challenged by a son to do something “unique” with my culinary experience as I shared with him that I was antsy. Retirement was calling me, although I didn’t see it as golfing and sailing everyday nor sitting still.

This itch to keep moving was consuming. And I wanted to mix something fun with my obsession with blue water and boats. It was a year ago I began the role of cook on a tugboat moving up and down the lower Mississippi River. In tugboat parlance it is actually referred to as a “towboat”. Not sure why as we don’t “tow” anything. I think it sexier to call it a tugboat and do believe that most people would easily picture one when mentioned. Save for a tow-boater.

I am a year in and some reflections on life and being semi-retired bounce around my head. Number one is the lure of being fully retired, and this typically occurs after a snarky crew comment about the evening’s dinner selections. One of the few things that change daily on a towboat is the menu. It changes with each meal. I suppose it is easy to understand how it might be a fair target for idle chit chat in the deck locker, the crew gathering space forward. We are all on the boat for 28 days doing our jobs and also chasing a full night’s sleep. The crew work six hours on and then six hours off. The routine is…well routine. Food becomes an easy target. Like the ducks that float by, I let the comments roll off my back. I do take their comments seriously when approached in private. This dance is a lively one at 5 ½ knots.

A Greek salad set out for mealtime, I know sort of exotic!

An experienced chef learns early in their career that comments many times are just personal preferences being articulated and not to be confused with a true complaint. Handling complaints is one of the difficult challenges of being a chef and lessons, if not learned, are sure to limit a career.

I am not ready to give this up tugboat life just yet and am working towards setting another goal. Grade school never came easy to me. I never felt a sense of belonging in school as my late birthday, back then, dictated school readiness. I struggled and never felt ready. A number of years ago I realized I had missed much and began the process of trying to accumulate these missed topics. Writing being one. And reading. I now come loaded with books, many suggested by a dear friend who curated a list of classic “not to miss” books. Huckleberry Finn was first up and so appropriate. I watch this river slide underneath us as the shore steadily fades behind and imagine Huck and Jim floating from town to town. The river is different today. The towns are bigger, perhaps dreams are smaller. My dreams grow wondering about a time gone by. It’s easy to drift.

I did go to college and found enrolling later was a gift to me. Culinary training as well set my career in motion. First discouraged by my dad to be a cook…it was later that I determined it was to be my path and his concerns were his not mine.

Often I am asked what river life is like. Beyond the routine and the work itself it is the people. The boat is huge, we have plenty of space, as it measures just under 200 feet long and 57 feet wide. I have my own room and it is adequate. I make it my own each trip with personal touches and bedding. My galley is more than adequate with enough space to prepare meals for eight. I am a one man show. I grew up in a large family and watched and now wonder how my mother cooking at home managed to do what I am doing. And she did it for younger people, kids. Growing up we did the dishes as I do out here. I was asked for advice once on becoming a chef from a middle aged friend. My advice to them was to get a job washing dishes for six months and if they still had that smile on their faces I assured them they would do fine. Cooking equals dishes; dishes don’t wash themselves.

Lowering the skiff for an early morning crew change. From there we motor into a boat launch to meet the oncoming crew.

The people on board first and foremost are all good people. Sure a few get under my skin and leave a trail when in the galley. You might now be waiting for the word…”but”, but there is no “but!” It is a slice of America that is one I am unfamiliar with. It is interesting and my only way to take care is to listen and understand. We all want people to be like us, I suspect they do too. The challenge, not unlike politics today, is to listen and understand that we are diverse.

Thanks to a daughter in law who grew up in India I have become better at exploring Indian cuisine. It is intoxicating. Coconut curry lentils one night presented my opportunity to help others take a step. One young deckhand was reluctant to try something he admitted he’d never had. I assured him he was way too young to be set in his ways. A slow smile crept across his cheeks as he tried the spiced lentils. He may never do so again…but now he knows. Small steps in the world of connection and understanding.

Not to exotic grilled steak and chicken, with one piece of chicken seasoned by a crew member who wants it “just right”. The barges in the background are cinched in tight for stability.

Unlike growing up in a large family where your dinner choice was only what was prepared, on the towboat I take into consideration many likes, dislikes, preferences, and special requests. No bones in my food, I don’t eat pork and never mind I have sausage and bacon everyday, I prefer brownies and honeybun cake, no nuts, salad at every meal, anything that ends in ‘ookie, can we have chicken at every meal, beans too, vegetables-nah, box versus from scratch, biscotti…whaaa? We could probably save a bundle if we bought Frank’s Hot Sauce in a 55 gallon drum complete with a 12 ounce ladle. Tiger Sauce is a very close second. We can use the same ladle.

I view my role as a source of comfort away from their homes and will bend to their preferences. They do have to buck up once in a while and eat what is prepared as I don’t have a magic wand.

Sunset on the river looking aft from the second deck of the towboat.

I stay away from politics and religion and learned that shortly after moving to Nashville. Culturally this country of ours is diverse and plentiful. It is disheartening to watch and realize that the very strength of this country, that diversity, is one of its biggest obstacles. My lessons in this semi-retired state have brought me more awareness of what is wrong as I struggle like many to accept and understand more.

A view from the pilot house with 48 barges in front.

Did I also tell you this is fun? It is. The captain appreciates my work, a few of the crew check in with me daily and socialize, and my bed is as comfortable as the one at home. Being away for four weeks is interesting as you are trapped and provided with time captured. Reading, exercising (next challenge) and cooking continue to stimulate me. And writing too. I do miss my yoga class while away, the instructor is so special.

My half step into retirement is still interesting. I look forward to more and work towards this continuing to be a learning step in my life.

Food cooks, I show up and merely apply heat.

Jim

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Jim Milliman

Sailor, chef, father, golfer, woodworker…always contemplating the “what’s next” in life. In this crazy world exploring what’s next in life versus retirement.