Weekly Motion 13.07.17


FASHION IS THE GOAL, SUSTAINABILITY IS THE WAY :: This week there was another noble cause to be in Berlin. Not that you need one because Berlin is… well, Berlin right? Nevertheless, during the Berlin fashion week, which happened from 4th to 7th of July, there was a sustainability fair created by the partnership of Berlin’s Ethical Fashion Show and Green Showroom. It is a B2B event dedicated to ethical and sustainable fashion in which companies must meet strict sustainability criteria to participate. The exhibitors profile included fashion analysts, companies and designers who were staging their clothing collections, bringing together streetwear and casual wear brands that have sustainability as their main goal. Having business and trade as the main goal, they offered a platform with the latest information on issues relating to future-oriented retailing and sustainability in the fashion industry. They also had lectures, knowledge lounges, discussions, guided tours and get-togethers. Bloggers and influencers will select collection pieces from participating labels, display them in photo shoots and write reports about them. The focus is on fashion, but sustainability is the shinning star.
BRINGING PERFECTION OUT OF FASHION’S WRONGS :: Think about everything that you see related to fashion in a daily bases, that is all in the past. The future is way bolder, free and open minded, and it’s being created by brands like Pall Offner, a German brand that brings a completely different concept to clothing. Pall Offner was create by two women with a completely different background but with the same desire, to create perfection inside of imperfection. That may sounds meaningless, but if you look at their creations, it is the exact materialization of this concept. They put together a couple of fashion’s imperfections, like boundaries between masculinity and femininity, clothes with expiration trend dates, gender standing above personal taste, fashion cultural restraints and patterns and create perfection. Clothes that pray for the opposite of all these imperfections, a fashion where people define their own limits, how they want to express themselves, with timeless and genderless inspirational pieces. In a purposeful disruption of strict design disciplines, the label’s collections are characterized by the use of cut edges, creased materials, and handmade finishes, the art of deconstruction juxtaposed against more classic tailoring; an experimental play on polarity.
THE LIGHT AND TECH FALL 2017 COUTURE OF IRIS VAN HERPEN :: It is fearless and creative designers like Iris van Harpen that are helping create a new fashion universe. Mixing new technologies with art and design, she creates experimental clothes inside of a disruptive fashion scenario and labels it as high fashion. What more can a designer asks? The collection inspirations were water and air and the pieces brought all the lightness and fluidity that both these elements can remit. A dress that makes you refers to a jellyfish and another that resembles a cloud made out of laser-cut metal flowers, made in collaboration with the architect Philip Beesley, are just some examples about the extraordinary structures that Van Herpen brought to the runway this time. As usual, all pieces were handmade involving complex processes like laser-cut, heat bonding, hand pleating, and braiding. Fabrics shaped in waveforms, changing their formats according to the light and the angle. Tulle and organza became amazing 3D structures with the help of laser-cut pieces of silver lace. The color chart was neutral and timeless, black, white, grey and silver. We love her work but sure missed her 3D printed elements this time.

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