Discover the Rise to Fame of Barbera Wine: From a Lesser Known Grape to a World-Class Favorite

Molinvin
9 min readJan 8, 2023

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As a sommelier and educator with a vineyard in Piemonte, I have witnessed the evolution of Barbera wine firsthand: from a lesser-known grape to a world-class wine beloved by winemakers and wine lovers alike. Here’s the story of Barbera’s rise to fame and the unique characteristics that make it a standout variety.

Anders Molin DipWSET, Johnny Adam (Adam Selected) and Claudio Dacasto

Barbera Wine: From Lesser Quality to World-Renowned

Barbera wine has come a long way in recent years, evolving from a lesser quality to being recognized as some of the highest quality in the world. In this article, we’ll delve into the reasons behind Barbera’s rise to fame and explore the unique characteristics that make it a beloved grape variety among winemakers and wine lovers alike. From its adaptability and balanced acidity to its ageability and versatility, there is much to discover about the fascinating world of Barbera wine.

The Agliano Terme Region: A Hub for Barbera Wine Production

We’ll also take a closer look at the Agliano Terme region, an important area for the production of Barbera wine, and meet the winemaker who is helping to lead the charge in bringing this delicious wine to the forefront of the industry. So, if you’re a fan of wine or simply looking to learn more about this exciting grape variety, read on for all the details.

Claudio is a winemaker and vineyard owner who is dedicated to the success of Barbera grapes. These grapes are well-known for their versatility and ability to produce delicious wines with bright acidity and ripe fruit flavors. The harvest season is a special time for Barbera grapes, as it marks the start of the winemaking process. Claudio loves this time of year and says, “The harvest is the happiest time of the whole year.” He works closely with his family to carefully nurture the Barbera grapes in the vineyard and expertly transform them into top-quality wine using the best techniques. Each member of Claudio’s family plays an important role in the wine production process, from caring for the vines to paying attention to every detail in the winery. This ensures that the Barbera grapes are treated with the utmost respect and the resulting wines are of the highest caliber.

The Versatility and Adaptability of Barbera Wine

Barbera is a widely grown grape variety that is known for its versatility and ability to produce high-quality wines with bright acidity and ripe fruit flavors. Some of the reasons why Barbera is considered a great grape include:

  1. Adaptability: Barbera is a relatively easy grape to grow and can thrive in a wide range of climates and soil types. This adaptability makes it a popular choice for winemakers around the world.
  2. Balanced acidity: Barbera wines are known for their bright acidity, which helps to balance out the ripe fruit flavors and give the wines a fresh, lively character.
  3. Ageability: Barbera wines have the potential to age well and can develop complex, nuanced flavors over time.
  4. Versatility: Barbera can be made in a range of styles, from light and fruity to full-bodied and structured. This versatility allows winemakers to craft Barbera wines to suit a variety of tastes and occasions. Food-friendliness: Barbera is a popular choice for pairing with food due to its bright acidity and fruit flavors, which can help to complement a wide range of dishes.

Overall, Barbera is a highly regarded grape variety that is prized for its balance, versatility, and ability to produce high-quality wines.

Agliano Terme is an important area. Here’s why…!

Have you ever wondered why this area is so famous and highly regarded? There are many factors that contribute to its reputation. One reason is the unique climate and soil conditions in the region, which create the perfect environment for growing a variety of crops, including grapes for wine production. The area is also home to many skilled and experienced winemakers who use traditional and modern techniques to craft high-quality wines. Additionally, the region has a long history of winemaking and a rich cultural heritage that has contributed to its fame. All of these factors combine to make this area a premier destination for wine lovers and experts alike.

  1. The lower altitude: The lower altitude of Agliano Terme allows for a longer growing season, which can help improve the ripeness and complexity of the Barbera grapes.
  2. The more flat land: The flat terrain of Agliano Terme makes it easier to cultivate the Barbera grapes and to manage the vineyards.
  3. Continental features: Agliano Terme has some continental features, such as high diurnal temperature range, which can help to preserve the high acidity levels and evident fruitiness of the Barbera wine.
  4. Nizza appellation: The Nizza appellation, which is only granted to Barbera wines produced in Agliano Terme and the surrounding area, is an important factor in the success of Barbera in this region. The limited area of the appellation means that only a select number of producers can make Nizza-labeled Barbera, which creates a sense of exclusivity and prestige. The soil differences within the Nizza appellation also contribute to the character of the Barbera produced in this area.
  5. Barbera revolution: Agliano Terme has been at the forefront of the Barbera revolution, with winemakers such as Braida leading the way in producing high-quality, expressive Barbera wines. This has helped to raise the profile of Barbera and to establish Agliano Terme as an important region for this grape.
  6. Climate: The climate in Agliano Terme is well-suited to the cultivation of Barbera grapes. The region has hot, dry summers and cool, wet winters, which allow the grapes to achieve optimal ripeness while also maintaining high acidity levels. The lower altitude of the region also helps to moderate temperatures, further contributing to the balance and complexity of the Barbera wines produced here.
  7. Soil: The soil in Agliano Terme is diverse, with a mix of calcareous clay, sand, and limestone. These soils, along with the continental climate, help to give Barbera wines from Agliano Terme their characteristic bright acidity and ripe fruit flavors.
  8. History: Barbera has a long history in Agliano Terme, with the grape being grown in the region for centuries. This history, combined with the recent success of the Barbera revolution, has helped to establish Agliano Terme as an important region for Barbera production.
  9. Quality: The Barbera wines produced in Agliano Terme are known for their high quality and expressive character. Winemakers in the region use a variety of techniques, such as barrel aging and extended maceration, to enhance the depth and complexity of their Barbera wines.
  10. Sustainability: Many of the winemakers in Agliano Terme are committed to sustainable and environmentally-friendly practices in the vineyard and winery. These efforts help to protect the natural resources of the region and to ensure the long-term success of the Barbera industry in Agliano Terme.

In summary, the combination of a suitable climate, diverse soils, a rich history, and a commitment to quality and sustainability all contribute to the importance of Agliano Terme as an area for Barbera production.

Barbera as rosé

Barbera is a grape variety that is not often seen as a rosé, with most rosé wines coming from the Puglia region of Italy. However, in Piemonte, a region known for its red wines made from the Barbera grape, a small number of winemakers are producing Barbera rosé.

According to the winemaker in this context, their father was initially resistant to the idea of making Barbera rosé. However, he eventually came around to the idea and now produces a unique and highly regarded Barbera rosé.

One of the key features of this Barbera rosé is that it is made without the addition of sugar, resulting in a dry wine. To add body and depth to the wine, the winemaker uses old vines of the Campbrio variety, which are known for their character and ability to produce grapes with high acidity. The lower, less sun-exposed vineyards and soil in this area also contribute to the high acidity of the Barbera grapes. The lack of oak aging helps to preserve the fruitiness of the Barbera and the old vines, resulting in a wine with a lively, fruity character.

The high acidity levels of this Barbera rosé make it a particularly good choice for pairing with food. It is also a seasonal wine, often requested by restaurants for the summer months. In Sweden, this type of wine is referred to as “Berså-vin,” or “seasonal wine,” and is enjoyed during the summer months on the balcony or at barbecues. Other fun terms for this type of wine in Sweden include “grillvin” and “balkongvin,” or “grill wine” and “balcony wine,” respectively.

Barbera as sparkling wine

Barbera is a grape variety that is not often seen as a wine made using the metodo classico, a traditional sparkling wine production method that involves a second fermentation in the bottle. However, some winemakers in Piemonte are experimenting with using Barbera in this way to create unique and complex sparkling wines.

One such winemaker celebrates their daughter’s birthday on June 9th by picking Barbera grapes early in the season and using the metodo classico to create a special sparkling wine. In the past, the winemaker would pick the grapes early in order to preserve their acidity levels. However, they have recently started to prioritize the fruitiness of the grapes in order to create a more expressive and complex wine.

The use of Barbera in this sparkling wine helps to bring out the elegance and complexity of the fruit expression of the grape. The winemaker notes that they don’t like sparkling wines that are just fruit and fizz, and believes that the Barbera metodo classico wine is something better.

The winemaker fondly remembers how their family made it clear that they would be deeply disappointed if they didn’t carry on making this wonderful wine. It is clear that this is a wine that holds a special place in the hearts of the winemaker and their family.

Camp Riond — Barbera as the highest quality

Camp Riond is a wine made from Barbera grapes that undergoes several steps in the wine-making process to achieve its distinct character and flavor. During wine-making, the grapes undergo a process called malolactic fermentation, in which malic acid is converted into lactic acid. This process softens the wine and adds complexity to its flavors.

To create the final wine, half tonneau and half barrique, or barrels, are blended together. The wine is then aged in oak barrels for between 6–12 months, depending on the vintage. There are no specific demands for the oak aging process, only that the final wine meets the taste approval of the producers.

To further add body and complexity to the flavors of Camp Riond, the wine is not filtered, but rather allowed to settle slowly. This results in a wine with long-aging acidity and the ability to be stored for 10–15 years. It is classified as a Barbera d’Asti SUPERIORE, which means that it has been aged for at least 6 months for great complexity.

I appreciate being a part of the ongoing evolution of Barbera wine, which has seen a significant improvement in quality over time. I have been following this development with interest and have enjoyed many noteworthy wines from this region. It is evident that the taste of these wines has improved considerably over the years.

If you are interested in purchasing Dacastos wines in Sweden, there are some available at https://adamsselected.se/producenter/azienda-dacasto-duilio/

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I am Anders Molin, a DipWSET certified sommelier educator specializing in wine and spirits. Expert in Italian and Spanish wines. I received my DipWSET certification from the Wine and Spirit Educational Trust in London — the most prestigious wine educations in the world. I own a vineyard in Italy and am a lecturer at Scandinavian Wine Academy in Sweden — the largest sommelier school in Scandinavia. Find more information at www.molinvin.com and our beloved AirBnB house in Piedmont at www.lacasavola.com

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Molinvin

Wine consultant, lecturer and writer🍷 DipWSET. Spanish and Italian (IWS) Specialist. WSET educator @vinkallan. Owning the vineyard @La Casa Vola, Piemonte.