My 10 days of vipassana (silent meditation and living off the grid) experience at Kathmandu, Nepal Dhamma Shringa – A journey of silence and a detox for the mind, body and from Technology!
Fresh off an exhilarating trek to Everest Base Camp, I found myself on a bus, winding through the streets of Thamel in Kathmandu, headed for a different kind of adventure — a journey not of miles, but of the mind, plunging into the ancient technique called Vipassana meditation at Buddhalikantha Dhamma Shringa in Nepal. Vipassana, a form of silent meditation, is a revered practice discovered by Buddha more than 2500 years ago. It aims to forge a profound connection between mind and body and is taught as a 10-day residential course at various Dhamma meditation centers around the globe. Here, amidst the gentle whisper of the Kathmandu valleys and the stoic gaze of the distant mountains, I was to encounter not the external world but the world within, a world far more vast and intricate than I could have ever imagined.
At that moment as it was right after my Everest base camp trek, all that my body was yearning for was simple comforts: a cozy bed, warm meals, and most importantly, a hot shower. These were my humble expectations as I started on this journey of inner exploration.
The bus ride to Buddhalikantha was about an hour, a peaceful transition from the bustling streets of Thamel to the serene valleys framed by distant mountains. My mind was unusually quiet, almost as if it too was preparing for the stillness to come. I arrived at Dhamma Shringa around 1 PM, well before the 3 PM deadline we were given for Day 0.
As I stepped off the bus, the first thing that caught my eye was a tall golden tower of Dhamma (see the picture below), gleaming in the bright sunlight, almost as if welcoming me to this sacred space. Volunteers guided me to the women’s registration line — men and women were separated right from the start. Registration was swift, and I was handed a room number along with a brief rundown of the rules I’d be living by for the next 11 days.
Before parting with my phone and other valuables, I took a moment to make quick calls to my husband and parents. “I’ll be off the grid for the next 11 days,” I told them.
Walking out of the registration room, I saw a few couples exchanging goodbyes before parting ways into their respective sections. A volunteer-led me to my room and then it was time to surrender my worldly distractions: my laptop, camera, phone, e-reader, journal, and a couple of books I’d brought along.
Our first meal on Day 0 was a simple yet delicious offering of chai and pakoras, deep-fried onion fritters that hinted at the culinary delights that awaited us. Dinner was served at 6 PM — a light but satisfying meal of porridge, vegetables, and bread. I ate heartily, knowing it would be my last dinner for the next 10 days. From tomorrow, we will be limited to just two meals a day: breakfast at 6 AM and lunch at 11 AM (one of the rules to follow).
The evening concluded with an orientation and a tour of the Dhamma, where we were reminded of the six precepts we were to follow:
- Noble silence
- eat only 2 meals a day
- no sexual misconduct
- no alcohol or drugs
- a commitment to not harm any living being, down to the smallest insect,
- to speak only the truth
As 8 PM rolled around, we filed into the Dhamma Hall for our first group sitting, each of us silently committing to these rules. And so began my journey into Vipassana, a voyage not of miles but of the mind, promising to be every bit as challenging and rewarding as any mountain I had ever climbed.
The Schedule
The schedule for the next 10 days was meticulously planned, starting with a wake-up bell at 4:00 AM and ending with lights out at 9:30 PM. Sandwiched between were hours of meditation, group sittings, teacher’s discourses, and breaks for meals and tea. It was a routine designed to immerse us fully into the practice of Vipassana.
Day 1 — A Late Start
On Day 0, feeling like an excited child on the evening of a grand adventure, I took a warm shower and brushed my teeth before tucking myself into bed at 10 PM. During my Everest trek, I had started using earplugs to help me sleep, and I continued the habit here. The result? I slept like a log, completely missing the 4:00 AM wake-up bell. It was only when a volunteer knocked on my door at 5:15 AM that I sprang to life. I quickly washed my face and made my way to the Dhamma Hall by 5:30 AM.
The Atmosphere
Entering the Dhamma Hall, I was struck by the pin-drop silence. Everyone was seated in their allocated spots, deeply engrossed in their meditation. The teachers who had been present on Day 0 were absent, a pattern I later learned was the norm except for the four mandatory group settings. The teachers were present only for the four group sittings and the rest of the time we meditated either in the dhamma hall, meditation cell, or in our own room with Sire Goenka Ji's audio guide
The First Few Days
The first day unfolded smoothly, aside from my morning tardiness. Breakfast was served at 6:30 AM and lunch at 11 AM. I made it a point to eat as much as I could during these meals to stave off hunger later in the day. The meditation sessions, guided by audio discourses from Guru Goenka Ji, were not as challenging as I had feared. However, maintaining a cross-legged posture for extended periods proved difficult, prompting me to shift positions multiple times during each hour-long session.
The Training Phase
The initial three days focused on Annapanna meditation, a technique aimed at sharpening our minds by concentrating on our breath. This was a preparatory phase for the more intense Vipassana practice that would start on Day 4. I found these initial days manageable, although I did occasionally drift into sleep during the early morning sessions.
By Day 4, I got used to waking up early and subsisting on two meals a day. But things took a challenging turn on Day 5 when we were instructed to maintain a single posture throughout each meditation session. The idea was to embrace the present and then let go of any discomfort or pain. Despite my best efforts, I couldn’t maintain a single posture for an entire session until the 9th day.
I do not want to delve into the specifics of the Vipassana technique here on purpose, as I believe it’s something best experienced firsthand. However, I can share that the emotional and physical transformations I underwent during these 10 days were profound and deeply affecting, setting the stage for lasting changes in my life.
Somewhere between Day 5 and Day 7, I hit a wall. I can’t pinpoint the exact day, but I vividly remember the internal struggle that consumed me. Two voices clashed in my head during every group sitting. One voice questioned the necessity of enduring such physical and emotional pain, especially when I had practiced other forms of meditation that were far less demanding. “Why am I putting myself through this?” it asked, as discomfort and pain radiated from my lower back to my upper back, hips, thighs, and knees. The other voice urged me to persevere, whispering that the pain was temporary and that “this too shall pass.” It was a mental tug-of-war that made each meditation session an arena for inner conflict.
At that point, I felt that this experience was even more challenging than my Everest trek. The difference? I couldn’t share my emotions with anyone due to the rule of noble silence. The urge to leave the room and scream at the top of my lungs was overwhelming, yet I remained seated, silently wrestling with my thoughts.
Slowly but surely, I began to crest the peak of my internal struggle. By Day 8, something remarkable happened — I felt grounded. The pain that had once consumed me seemed to dissipate, allowing me to sit comfortably for an entire hour-long session. I was making genuine progress, just as Guru Goenka Ji had outlined in his discourses. It was then that I truly understood the impermanent nature of all things, encapsulated in the phrase “this too shall pass.” I learned to accept both discomfort and pleasure, not as obstacles or rewards, but as sensations to be observed and understood. This acceptance created a union within me — a harmonious relationship between my body, mind, and surroundings. It was a profound realization, one that made me understand the true meaning of becoming one with yourself and the world around you.
Would I Recommend a 10-Day Vipassana Retreat?
My Personal Take
My experience with Vipassana was overwhelmingly positive, but I understand that it’s not a one-size-fits-all journey. So, would I recommend it to others? Absolutely. Even if you’re unsure whether it’s the right fit for you, I’d say go for it. Consider it a once-in-a-lifetime experience that could offer you invaluable insights into your own mind and life.
I encourage you to delve deeper into the world of Vipassana by researching more about it online. You will find a wealth of scientific articles explaining the methodology and the science behind it, illustrating how this practice has brought about profound transformations in many. You’ll also discover how numerous renowned personalities have incorporated Vipassana into their lives.
Some famous people who practice Vipassana
Yuval Noah Harari (Dedicated his best-selling book Homo Sapiens to Shri S N Goenka)
Subhash Chandra (Indian $ Billionaire)
Arvind Kejriwal (Chief Minister of Delhi, made Vipassana mandatory for primary school teachers in Delhi)
Jack Dorsey (Twitter CoFounder and CEO), went for Vipassana on his birthday
As I mentioned at the outset, every individual embarks on this journey with their own set of expectations, perspectives, and feedback. While Vipassana may not be universally suitable, I firmly believe everyone should give it a try at least once in their lifetime. Experience it, and then decide whether to integrate it into your life or not.
Practical Advice for First-Timers
- Be Disciplined and Obedient: This is not a 10-day vacation with free meals and lodging. The rules are there for a reason — to help you get the most out of this intense spiritual journey. Follow them diligently.
- Start Strong from Day 1: Think of the first couple of days as your “kindergarten” in the world of Vipassana. Your discipline in these early stages sets the foundation for deeper engagement as the days progress. I regret not taking this to heart sooner; I was pretty relaxed until Day 3 and only then did I get serious. Who knows how much more enriching my experience could have been had I been disciplined from the first day?
Additional Notes
- Donations: The course is free, and funded by the generosity of past participants. You’re encouraged to donate only after you’ve completed the full 10-day course. If you leave midway, your donation won’t be accepted, even if you’re willing. You can contribute either monetarily or by volunteering your time.
- During the entire 11 days, opportunities to speak are extremely limited and structured. For practical inquiries, one can speak with a volunteer, while any questions about the techniques and practices can be addressed to the teachers during the allocated Q&A sessions. Across the 11 days, I found myself speaking for a total of approximately five minutes: a couple of minutes with teachers during Q&A, and a brief exchange with a volunteer regarding some practical matters.
Facilities
The menu at each Vipassana center can vary significantly, largely depending on the donations they receive. For instance, my family, who attended a retreat in Southern India enjoyed a wide variety of south Indian dishes and the one who attended in Europe had a very European meal with bread, Rice, and a vegetable spread. Centers like the one in Mumbai, which was the first to open in India and can accommodate up to 1,000 people, are known to offer more extensive facilities and food options due to their popularity and larger donation pool.
At Dhamma Shringa in Nepal, the meals were simple yet nourishing, typically consisting of roti, rice, a curry, and vegetables. On Day 0, each participant is given a set of utensils — a cup, plate, and spoon — that they’ll use for the duration of the retreat. It’s your responsibility to clean these utensils after each meal.
Accommodation: I was fortunate to have a single room with a shared toilet and bathroom. This was a relief, as sharing a room with a stranger you can’t even talk to could add an extra layer of mental burden. I had no issues with the shared facilities; everyone was disciplined and took it upon themselves to maintain a clean environment for all.
Laundry options also vary from center to center. While some may offer laundry services, others, provide space for you to wash your clothes by hand. At Dhamma Shringa, we had a spacious outdoor area designated for hand-washing clothes, complete with areas for drying them.
Concluding Thoughts
Completing the 10-day Vipassana journey felt like waking up from a long, enlightening dream. The world around me seemed the same, yet I was viewing it with fresh, insightful eyes, and my heart was lighter, brimming with newfound peace. This journey was tough, comparable to conquering a towering mountain, filled with its own set of trials and revelations.
I learned many lessons, but the most significant one was the realization that everything in life, whether joy or sorrow, is temporary. This understanding helped me develop a deeper connection with myself, allowing me to embrace my thoughts and emotions more openly and see the world in a new light.
The journey wasn’t about escaping from my problems or the world around me; instead, it was a deep dive into my own mind, an exploration aimed at understanding and accepting myself and the realities of life more profoundly. This 10-day course was like a mirror reflecting my inner self, helping me to uncover and understand the hidden facets of my personality and life.
I found a serene, silent space within myself, a refuge that I could retreat to whenever the noise of the world became overwhelming. This internal silence has become a guide, leading me through life’s chaos with a harmonious melody of tranquility and wisdom.
I am curious to know if anyone else has gone to Vipassana. How has this technique influenced your perspectives, decisions, and approach to life? I invite you to share your experiences, thoughts, and reflections. Let’s learn and grow together, exploring the profound depths of our minds and the boundless expanse of the universe around us.
Please feel free to reach out to me if you have any specific questions. Always happy to help.
Thank you
Monica
