I took a walk around cemetery Vinohrady today. The weather was crappy but I felt like walking.
It’s not the prettiest cemetery ever but it has some wonderful spots.
The most common is probably St. Wenceslas’ chapel, with the graves of victims of the 1945 Prague uprising in front of it. This story is one of those you have to dig around to find out, like many really good Czech stories.
My experience with Czechs tells me they aren’t very angry people in general. They tend to talk things out and compromise. However, when oppressed, they protest, take up arms and fight back. I’m still struggling to find a history book that will cover all the truly interesting parts of Czech history and not just give me the usual tourist crap.
But, back to the cemetery. This little chapel is sweet — and it is where Vaclav Havel is buried — but for me it’s not the most amazing part of the cemetery.
I don’t like taking my camera out in places like these, always seems somehow disrespectful, so I just made a few pics with my phone which I’m not sure capture how amazing the second, hidden, part of the cemetery is.
There’s one part full of low foliage and shrubbery with graves placed tightly between them, so it looks like a large garden rather than a graveyard.
From there, a path leads into a labyrinth of young cypresses with short graves snuggled between them. The silence and the cypress walls make that area as creepy as it is beautiful.
So, yes, I’m the kind of person who likes to walk around cemeteries. They are beautiful and quiet and people leave you alone to do your thing.
Also, my history nerd rejoices every time I see a gravestone dated to 1800’s.
Which reminds me, I found a lovely but unkept grave of Jan Friedlaender (1839–1892), who was apparently a mayor of Vynohrady before it was a part of Prague and contributed greatly to its development. … but somehow looking up info about him is almost impossible and his grave, despite being a massive structure on the crossroad near the main entrance seems abandoned. History is brutal.