So, this is basically something I’ve always loved and wanted to do, something that is easy to start, but I never had the courage to start practicing it, until last Sunday, when I finally decided, that this is the perfect moment to start doing what I really love, and you know what? I didn’t regret it, it was such a groovy sensation, first time wearing such a thing, first time I’m going to the beach in order to surf, and not only to swim.
When I did wear a wetsuit, I was kinda ready, excited, and had nothing to lose, I was ready to start doing something I’d fall in love with, the first steps toward the waves holding the board in my arm, that feeling was expressionless — it might look silly for many people out there, but it’s fine, at least I found something I’d do without getting bored — before I took myself down to the ocean, I had to do some moves, which took me few minutes to avoid problems while on the beach.
Then, I went directly to the ocean, I’d some ideas about surfing, what should we start with, what should we do, what we shouldn’t do, so I’ve tried to practice what I did learn in internet or through couple friends, who gave me some advice about this. The first thing I was trying to do, is to get used to the board, to be comfortable on it, to be balanced on the board, it wasn’t hard, but it needed me to be focused, concentrated which truly helped me to clear my mind, I completely forgot myself out there, for about 4 hours, I went to another world, to a world of peace of mind, I knew that it’s not going to be easy, that i’ll be fallen down many times, but still, every time I fall, I keep telling myself, that it’s worth it, we do all start small, but if we keep pushing ourselves to the limit, we will grow, slowly but surely, and I knew that by practicing, I can make it, I can get my first wave sooner or later, what really interests me at that moment, is to enjoy the moment, to be connected to that board, to the ocean, and the most important thing, to have such a harmony with myself, and that was beautiful.
I was lucky, because the weather was warm, and yes, this was in November, I never expected that I would be surfing someday during the sunset, in such an empty beach, there were couple surfers in between, each one was waiting for a wave to get, I was trying to observe and learn, and this is the only key to make whatever we want to do or be, by observing, adapting ourselves to the environment and practicing, because practice always makes things perfect.