“Kingdom Kampala: Work in Progress”
“Kingdom Kampala: Work in Progress” are the words I walked by routinely as I learned to navigate the city of Kampala, noticing them plastered across metal walls in the neighbourhood where I was staying. My international development interpretations insisted on asking: What is progress for Kampala? Under whose definition? For which purpose? And progress for whom? I later learned Kingdom Kampala is a 5 star hotel and shopping mall currently being constructed. Ha.
It’s been more than a month since I moved to Kampala, Uganda. Contemplating how and why I want to share my experiences has been a process (sorry to those I’ve kept waiting!). Representation isn’t easy because it matters.
My reasons for deciding to blog are multiple: For one, I wouldn’t be here without the love of family and friends, or the mentorship of activists, colleagues and professors that have shaped my perspectives and passions. I hope to share with them some of what they’ve made possible for me.
This is also a means for me to process my thoughts, conversations, silences and actions while learning from others and my own assumptions and failures: Like the kingdom, I am a work in progress. Questions, critique, and curiosity welcome.
Lastly, while sharing my experiences in Uganda as an outsider to its people and culture is riddled with ethical considerations, I hold that the sliver of thought provocation or awareness that blogs like these may offer to readers render them necessary to attempt. In the current socio-political climate of growing Western protectionism and emboldened white supremacy, I hope we can reflect together on how best to learn and engage with the injustices of this world’s intricately interwoven lives and politics.

It is important to me that in sharing my experiences — largely characterized by a growing love for this city and the people I’ve gotten to know thus far — you and I understand them as undeniably produced through the privilege that my citizenship, education, wealth and whiteness foster. One of the questions I am frequently asked by folks, from here and back home alike, is how I find people here? I’ve been warmly welcomed by my Ugandan team of colleagues, flatmate, strangers helping me cross the street, and friends made out and about.
Someone recently asked me if I know why I’ve received this reception. While there is something to be said for the genuine, curious and good-willed nature of us humans, she fairly reminded me that my whiteness is a sign of wealth. And whiteness and wealth are fabrics of power.
Power is one texture that terrifies me.
So now for a question I am in constant contemplation of: Why am I here?
International development, grown out of colonialism and white saviour p/maternalism, has evolved into a colossal industry of multinational NGOs and agencies, governments, social enterprises, and private sector partnerships with claimed aims of improving conditions for health and sanitation, education, food security and poverty alleviation in the Global South. But after studying the aid-industrial complex for four years, I was so disillusioned with the failures and harm of this top-down, neo-colonial system of dominance, exploitation and tokenism that I decided it was too much for me to try to challenge.
So seriously, what am I doing here? Choosing not to engage is also a choice predicated on privilege. I’m here giving it a chance. I’m here learning if and how locally-identified needs, strengths, solutions and leaders — in their diversity — can direct the agendas, terms and administration of international development. It’s an honour to be working alongside the incredibly dedicated team at Aga Khan Foundation (AKF) Uganda through AKF Canada’s International Youth Fellowship Program, and to be with an organization driven by values of participatory leadership, civil society and governance strengthening, accountability, transparency, self-sufficiency and sustainability.
In offering my knowledge and skills in gender-responsive programming and policy, I’m exploring the potential and nuances in solidarity building across varying values towards gender, equity and sexual and reproductive health and rights. In liaising with international partners, I’m discovering how, for instance, Canadian development assistance dollars are being invested in countries such as Uganda. In my discomfort with discomfort, I’m pushing myself to continue grappling through the grey.

To start, this means I’m filling my eyes, ears and heart with as much as my fibres can absorb.
I’m letting my pride laugh at itself as I stumble through Luganda lessons from friends, realize my African political geography is worse than I would’ve liked to believe, am told that it’s unbecoming to eat — even a banana — on the go, and dance (comparatively) awkwardly, a white fish out of water.
I’m sitting with the surprises, ranging from eating avocados the length of my forearm and sleeping through an earthquake, to celebrating one of the President’s bodyguard’s birthdays at my apartment and suspending myself in the city’s music that keeps you sweating and smiling until sunrise. And who would’ve guessed Ugandans are giving Canadians a run for our reputation as the most apologetic people on the planet? I’ve heard folks say sorry for a child’s cough, for my sunburn, for going over speed bumps, and just yesterday came across a cake the size of my fist with “Am Sorry” iced onto it. Too sweet.
I’m embracing the moments that challenge my presumptions about the workings of international social development agencies, knowledge creation and authority, civil society and activism, racial and ethnic politics and power relations, ‘expat’ culture and community, gender and sexuality, foreign business and investment influences, consequences of climate change, arts and entertainment energies, history and religion in Uganda.
I can’t wait to tell you more about my life, work and lessons learned in Kampala. But as much as possible, I will be using this as a platform for Ugandan friends, colleagues and contacts I meet along the way to share their own stories and perspectives with you.
Stay tuned!
J
The views expressed in this blog are entirely my own and do not represent the views or opinions of the Aga Khan Foundation, Aga Khan Development Network, or Global Affairs Canada.
