An Incorporation of the Ming and Qing Culture
Mukzin’s runway show opened at New York Fashion Week in February 2020. After presenting fashion collections “The Theater of Mao’er” at Shanghai, “The Jade in the Shadow” at Paris Fashion Week, and “Daan” at London Fashion Week, Designer Kate Han of MUKZIN revealed the 2020AW collection last Thursday.
But the whole process was quite tough according to designer Kate Han. “The day before President Donald Trump’s coronavirus travel ban took effect, Mukzin’s team of four arrived in New York for their first runway show in the city. Short Staffed and jetlagged, Kate Han (韩雯), the co-founder and designer of Mukzin, borrowed equipment from Parsons School of Design to continue with her runway looks as production was halted in China upon the local government’s order. ‘This is the only time when I was still sewing clothes two days before a runway, it’s pretty unforgettable,’ she said.” (Interview from JING DAILY)
For this collection, the designs and colors used were heavily inspired by ancient Chinese clothing. The designer incorporated details from the Ming and Qing Dynasty to “show the spirit of the sorceress from ancient China”.
This series was also inspired greatly by Dream of the Red Chamber (《红楼梦》one of China’s four great classical novels) in the Ming Dynasty, where young girls and boys used different ways to braid their hair.
What’s worth to be mentioned is the use of handmade accessories made by the wicker technique, which is also China’s intangible cultural heritage. The small wicker basket was used to capture insects. Overall, the designer @kate_hanwen wants to show the spirit of the sorceress from ancient China: they are quirky and multi-ethnicity.
A typical hand warmer with handmade accessories that a princess would use in the Qing Dynasty was used as well.
What does the brand identify with and how do you express inclusivity in your design?
Kate: If I were to pick a time that resonates with Mukzin, it’d be Tang Dynasty because I think it was the most inclusive time in terms of politics and culture. You could see people wearing Han clothes and others wearing Hu (‘胡’, ancient nomadic people from northwestern China) clothes. Culture wise, a lot of items of music, wall painting and poems have been passed down from the dynasty. If I were to pick an age group, I think Mukzin’s clothes suit everyone from junior high students to the older generation. Style-wise, I think Mukzin can also shift easily from street style to high fashion, it makes sense in both language systems. (From JING DAILY)