The 2019 Arbaeen gathering in Iraq
A photojournal and memoir of a surreal peaceful human gathering
By Dr. Munsif Bhimani , a 4 time Arbaeen attendee.
The annual Arbaeen gathering in Iraq is a remembrance of the killing of Imam al-Hussein in Iraq in 680 AD. Every year, as per Islamic tradition, the 40th day from the anniversary of the killing of al-Hussein is honoured by millions of visitors coming to Kerbala, Iraq, many even walking in to remember the struggle of al-Hussein against the Ummayad dynasty and its tyrannical ruler, Yazid ibn Muawiyah. This is one of the largest annual human gatherings in the world. The city of Kerbala, and the whole population of Iraq, welcome the visitors with free food, cooked on the streets, and free accommodation in outdoor tents and indoor apartments, as well as many hotels that welcome the guests. Much of this is provided free to the visitors by the population and government of Iraq, except some of the higher end hotels which do charge a nominal fee for the all-inclusive experience, Iraq style.

Visitors walk to Kerbala to remember the Arbaeen and the killing of Imam al Hussein along with his family and companions in 680 AD.
The events of Arbaeen include dramatic processions, plays, chants of solidarity with the ideals of truth and equity, poems, lectures and slogans all in keeping with the memory of the justful stance of an individual, Imam al-Hussein against a tyrannical empire and a despotic ruler.

Visitors remember Imam al Hussein with passionate resonation of justice and solidarity reminding themselves and their leaders of integrity and accountability in government, politics and society.
Feeding the millions of visitors is no easy task. Everybody in Kerbala, and different parts of Iraq, comes together in meal preparation. Three times a day, food distribution centres open everywhere around the shrines and city centres. Warm meals are prepared with care and diligence, often including chicken, kebabs and rice amongst other sumptuous meals.


Meal preparation, tea stations and food distribution stations make the event of Arbaeen a self-catered occasion with plenty of food for the visitors. Everyone in these areas helps in some ways with food or lodging for the visitors.


Tea stations pop up everywhere in Arbaeen as tea is a very popular drink in Iraq. Made with special black tea leaves, Iraqi tea is full of steeped flavours, sometimes accentuated with mint, cardamom and always a lot of sugar !
The Arbaeen event is a great boost to the local economy. The streets of the holy cities become alive with hundreds of thousands of visitors, who after completing their remembrance of Imam al-Hussein, partake in the shopping and purchasing of things to take back home, including religious rings, clothing, perfumes and pieces of art. Who would think that a country, as impoverished and dilapidated by war and disease, would come alive with exuberance and passion making it a destination like no other.

The shrine cities become exuberant with crowds of visitors from all over the world who come here to honour Imam al-Hussein and take something back home from Iraq.
Visitors come to the region from all around the world and they will often carry flags from the region they have come from. In the four years I have been attending Arbaeen, I have seen representatives from all over the world and have met some amazing people. This year, we saw representatives from various parts of Africa and even South America, Finland and Australia. This is in addition to the majority of the visitors from neighbouring Iran, Pakistan and Azerbaijan.



Some flags of countries that were noticed at this years Arbaeen, amongst many others.
The walk to the city of Kerbala is a key part of Arbaeen. Traditionally, visitors to Imam al-Hussein like to walk to his mausoleum in remembering his dear sister Zainab, who came to visit him walking, after she herself was released from incarceration by the Ummayad Caliph, Yazid, who al-Hussein had risen against. People walk from anywhere that they can to visit al Hussein but most people will walk from the town of Najaf (where al Hussein’s father Imam Ali, is buried) to Kerbala, a distance of 90 km which is covered in 3–4 days. This is known as “the walk” and is a colourful and vibrant display of the love of al-Hussein along the way in the different stations, platforms, resting spots, eating places and sleeping areas (known as mawqibs) that arise to look after the millions doing the walk.




During the Arbaeen walk there are stations for rest and food distribution as well as knowledge propagation and fund raising. The walk is completed in 3–4 days, after being fed well and illuminated with lots of knowledge and information along the way concerning social and political issues affecting the Middle East and the world.




Crowds of thousands of people walk to Imam al-Hussein’s shrine in Kerbala Iraq during the Arbaeen season to pay their respects to a leader who stood for justice.

It is not uncommon to come across young couples walking together during the Arbaeen walk, a practice that is believed to strengthen the bonds of their marriage and/or relationship.



All this food is distributed free for the Arbaeen visitors, whether pilgrims, journalists, aid workers or even observers. The best part is that this is freshly prepared and quite savoury. As one Iraqi said ‘we only serve and distribute what we eat ourselves on our best meal days’.




The streets are lined with huge cooking pots to prepare fresh meals for the attendees. Men work all day and all night to keep the food supply steady for the visitors.
The most dramatic part of Arbaeen is when the visitors actually reach the shrine of al-Hussein, an ecstatic moment of motivation and hope, of positive energy and of seeking freedom and equality everywhere because al-Hussein stood for values compatible with egalitarianism and social justice. Anyone feeling indignation or marginalization, or upholding values of inclusivity and equality, will find themselves go ecstatic in the shrine of al-Hussein, a beacon of hope in despair, and a symbol of truth, justice and hope. While the radiant shrine stands in Kerbala, Iraq, where it has given hope against many a brutal dictator, the message is also universally true for all those who identify with such messages globally.




The shrine of Imam al-Hussein is a universal beacon of justice and hope, and is a source of motivational energy, wellness and positivity for all those who attend here. In fact people report feeling these energies automatically in this area.

Visitors to the shrine of Imam al-Hussein offer their allegiance to his memory and his stand for justice, reminding themselves to take these values home and live their lives with fairness and equity
Outside the shrine of al-Hussein and connecting to the shrine of his brother al-Abbas, who was killed in the same massacre at the hands of the Ummayad caliph Yazid, is a corridor called Bayn-ul-Haramayn, which is literally translated as “in between the shrines”. This corridor is a meeting place for all the visitors during Arbaeen who gather here and discuss their local problems, just simply hang out with their families and friends and also recite poetries and prayers that eulogize Imam al-Hussein. Bayn-ul-Haramayn is a surreal, multicultural place full of sounds, sights and colours that perpetuate the themes of Kerbala and the message of Imam al-Hussein.



Bayn ul Haramain – the corridor between the shrines of al-Hussein and al-Abbas is a conglomeration of multiple cultures and a meeting point for all visitors to Imam al-Hussein.
The Arbaeen time is a great opportunity for relief work and charitable activities especially as the season is quite crowded with various visitors and attendees. Both local Iraqis and visiting participants are out in large numbers making it a good time to reach out to the rather introverted society and address some of their issues. Many North Americans and Europeans, myself included, travel to the area to engage in relief work, help in medical camps and orphanages and organize fund raising, food drives, medication delivery and help with primary care in medical camps. It is an eye opening venture to see what the people of the area go through in their daily lives. Disjointed medical care and lack of medications for the lower income population is a big problem. Other issues include a huge marginalized population of widows and orphans, the result of years of war, poverty, famine and disease. Anyone living outside a nuclear family is treated with less respect in that culture and hence widows and orphans are often forgotten by society at large, having to rely on their own available family that may often be aged parents or grandparents. In my four Arbaeen trips, I have been humbled by how much relief work and how many projects one can undertake in this part of the world even on a smaller scale and on an individual basis.


Children in an orphanage I often visited to supply medications and attend to basic medical care.

Young women being looked after in an orphanage setting whereas they would have been abandoned to the streets if not cared for.
The Arbaeen season is an amazing time and this little write up is a glimpse of what happens in Iraq during this time as humanism takes over a land riddled with war and famine. From the rememberance of Imam al-Hussein’s struggle emerges a season of warmth and compassion, motivation and empathy, humanity and love. A land with a tough past, and an even tougher future, gives birth to an occasion of caring and hospitality. From the local Iraqis who prepare free meals for the visitors, to the thousands of people who come to help in aid and relief work, the region becomes transformed into a cauldron bubbling of humanism at its finest, where we all care for each other and the people around us, and where love prevails over hate, truth over falsehood and just attitude over injustice. The exhorbitant energy that radiates from such positive feelings brings a spirit of compassion and love to the area that radiates universally.

After the morning prayers, visitors discuss their trip to Kerbala and what they have learned. Most discussions around Arbaeen are serious opportunities to talk about resolving social and political problems in the Middle East

At the end of the Arbaeen season, pomegranate juice made out of fresh Iraqi pomegranates, becomes a delicacy to enjoy. Refreshing, soothing and full of nutritional anti-oxidants, this drink is a nice way to chill during the heat of the season especially for those who complete the traditional 90 km walk.
Over 1400 years ago Imam al-Hussein stood his ground on these lands. His struggle resonated with society in espousing the power of truth globally. Now, in the land where he took his stand, we witness a rebirth of his message in the form of the Arbaeen occassion, where his memory comes to life in a gathering of millions of people. There really is nothing like this anywhere in the world. No land can boast of this privilege, and it has been a proud endeavour for me to able to have participated in the Arbaeen for four years in a row as a volunteer, a participant, an observer and a care worker disseminating the message of humanism in the spirit of Imam al-Hussein in whatever way possible.


The military and security presence is heightened during Arbaeen to make sure that the visitors, journalists, foreign nationals and observers all remain safe throughout the season.
Throughout this season, many foreign nationals have begun to partake in the event. Inspired by the humanism of the collective community that descended on this amazing expression of love and compassion, it is not uncommon to see many American and European visitors and journalists starting to spread the word of this amazing event. There were no security issues throughout our stay, thanks to the Iraqi intelligence and military presence, which makes sure that peace and tranquility prevail for the season. If you’re reading this, please take a minute to learn about this amazing event and hey, maybe even join in participating as a volunteer, aid-worker, walker or even an observer. It will not be a disappointing endeavour. And it will leave you with a desire to keep coming back. As one of my travel mates says “I don’t know a lot in life. But I know I belong here”. I couldn’t agree more!