Fashion is a global phenomenon. We see it promoted on our screens. We see it extravagantly paraded on catwalks. We see it displayed on posters and sprawled across billboards and buildings. It’s a way of expression. But mostly importantly, it’s a way of life in the 21st century.
“Fashion is part of the daily air and it changes all the time, with all the events. You can even see the approaching of a revolution in clothes. You can see and feel everything in clothes.” — Diana Vreeland
The mingling of creative ideas across the world through the exchange of trends, cultures and techniques is what makes fashion more than a piece of cloth. However in recent times, “the trend” is not what it used to be.
With the rise new labels in the last thirty years, fashion labels must establish a competitive edge in the cut-throat industry in order to survive. By utilising advanced technologies, companies like ASOS, Topshop, and Zara are able to respond to changing consumer demands to constantly produce and sell clothes that imitate their preferences.
These labels, otherwise known as “fast” fashion brands, all possess a similar trait that is they focus on quantity over quality. The logic seems simple right? Why expend more to produce and sell item when you can do it for less AND profit immensely from it.
And in a world where most of us consumers purchase clothing out of impulse blinded by the thrill of possessing new goods, we are often oblivious to the origin of the clothes we buy.
So who really pays?
Garment workers. Factory workers. Cotton farmers…Their families.
Women. Men. Children. All nameless. All who daily face verbal and physical abuse with little room for career advancement. All who endure injury and hardship, and labour entire days to earn a very small amount of money.
But they aren’t just any garment factory worker or cotton farmer that you would imagine working in a commodious, well furnished and looked after plant with an on-site clinic and clearly marked exits — the kind you would typically see in highly developed countries like Denmark or Australia. They are the factory workers and farmers of India, China, Philippines, Cambodia and Pakistan — all of which lack stringent workforce regulations and ethical codes of conduct. And the sad truth is, there are so many more countries that carry such terrible conditions.
Behind the colourful, beautiful facade of embellished silk and fluted pleats lined with appliqué lies a growing reality and fading dream. With a dream of providing a better life for themselves and their families, millions of women, men, and even children willingly put their lives on the line for an average of $3 a day. In hindsight this is barely enough to feed themselves or their family and children.
“I wanted to be an artist by drawing and making handicraft but my dream is now ruined under the needle of machine, under the rubble and sometimes by fire” — Lija, a garment worker.
Bangladesh, known for the worst country for workers’ rights, demonstrates everything wrong with the fast fashion industry. As fashion labels cut expenditures, the devastating effects on the working conditions of garment workers grows. The collapse of the Rana Plaza in 2013 that killed more than 1134 people is unfortunately one of many horrific incidents caused by the neglect of proper administrative practices and the increasing pressures to meet buyer demands.
In the cotton farming industry, farmers are often exploited by sellers of GMO seeds to repurchase the seeds that are overpriced to be 170 to 1700% more expensive. This places these farmers in extreme debt, which directly results in high levels of suicides in countries such as India. There is one every 30 minutes.
To further place the detrimental effects of the fast fashion industry on these factory workers and farmers into perspective, the handling of toxic chemicals to produce items, and the contamination of the air from vastly polluted sources in the working environment causes extreme health problems, physical and mental birth defects, disturbing skin conditions, and cancer. These afflictions often result in premature death.
This article by Bengsten and Danwatch sheds light on the occurrence of these incidents:
More information on the consequences of the fast fashion industry can be watched on Netflix. (I highly recommend fully watching this documentary)
So now I ask, how does one change this? How do we fix an issue that has reached such a drastic extent in the past three decades?
While some fast fashion companies such as GAP have completely changed their business practices to be more sustainable and ethical, with David Jones following closely behind with their recent release of a statement describing their aims to become completely ethical, we should not rely and wait on other labels to change because this is an issue that is also caused by us consumers.
I used to not be entirely aware of the consequences of my addiction to fast fashion (and fashion in general). Teachers and elders would hastily tell me a fragmentary abstract of the sweatshops that make the clothing I buy in random moment of reflection and I would never take a moment to fully look into it. The small piece of knowledge would then quickly be forgotten in my own reality of everyday life. That was until I met L.J, who was a massive advocate for veganism, sustainability, and ethical practices. She told and showed me e v e r y t h i n g.
And now, I am telling you.
YOU can:
- Try to buy from fashion labels that have ethical practices.
- Write a letter to a brand you’ve bought from that currently does not employ ethical practics. Encourage others to do so to!
- Try to invest in clothing pieces that are wearable with numerous outfits. This is a good alternative to constantly buying unique or new clothes that doesn’t match your most of wardrobe and can only be worn on certain occasions.
- Try thrift shopping. You’ll might stumble onto something you like. It might even be an actual high-end piece.
- Try doing a #haulternative. This idea was created by Fashion Revolution.
- Spread the word! It will truly help in raising more awareness for change.
To conclude in the words of Gianni Versace,
“Don’t be into trends. Don’t make fashion own you, but you decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way to live.”
References
Kozlowski, A., & Bardecki, M. (2012). Environmental impacts in the fashion industry: a life-cycle and stakeholder framework. Retrieved from https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Michal_Bardecki/publication/260979899_Environmental_impacts_in_the_fashion_industry_a_life-cycle_and_stakeholder_framework/links/545bcbbc0cf2f1dbcbcb0424/Environmental-impacts-in-the-fashion-industry-a-life-cycle-and-stakeholder-framework.pd
Daniele, V. (2014). The life and struggle of Garment Workers. Retrieved from https://www.scoop.it/t/photojournalism-social-photography-cinematography-foto-reportage-cinematografia/?&tag=poverty
Ndachengedzwa, S., & Stecca, E. (2016). The Fashion Industry and Its Impact on the Environment and Society. Retrieved from http://www.senseandsustainability.net/2016/03/02/the-fashion-industry-and-its-impact-on-the-environment-and-society/
2013 Savar building collapse. (2018). Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2013_Savar_building_collapse