Instructions for oiling wood

My-Woodwork
3 min readDec 30, 2017

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MATERIALS NEEDED:

  • brush
  • wood oil
  • cotton cloths
  • Sandpaper / abrasive (180 grit + 240)
  • gloves
  • Sanding block / eccentric sander
  • Dust mask

MANUAL

  • Step 1
    Grinding: grinding the entire timber surface with an abrasive pad / sander with a sanding paper (beginning with 180, and later 240 grit) in the fiber direction. (never transverse to the fiber). After grinding the surface of dirt and dust remnants MUST clean! Only such a good surface can be guaranteed! (Tip: When working with the eccentric sander, I make the last grinding operation (along the fiber) by hand sanding block + + sandpaper 240. So I can be sure that no scratches caused!)
  • Step 2
    oil application: The areas tired of waiting brush with oil (brush or lint-free cotton cloth) and 30 minutes. This you do until the wood does not absorb more oil and the surface remains shiny.
  • Step 3
    excess oil ablate: 30 minutes after the last application, you have any residual mineral oil which are located on the plate with an absorbent cloth (cotton cloth) ablate / wipe dry. (Tip: Here worth Precision work, so really bears any residual oil from, just so you get a clean cut out!
  • Intermediate step for professionals (You repeat steps 1–3, last cut should be done with min. 240 grit). You can step then repeat once more (total of three passes). If you do, you can take as 3rd through her to step 4.
  • Step 4
    After Treatment: After a day a thin layer of oil can be applied again. For this you can use a care wax oil finish or oil. Of course you can also use antique wax or floor wax.
  • Step 5
    can drying: let it dry The machined surface completely and do not expose for 24 hours to high stress / humidity. After two weeks, the oil is completely dried out and can be damp-mopped and used normally.
  • Maintaining wood regularly: Please never with a microfiber cloth, better is a cotton cloth / mop. For this purpose a mild special cleaner and everything will be fine!
  • Extremely important (life threatening): Any brush and rags that have come into contact with oil should always be aired in free and dried. Here there is a risk of spontaneous combustion !!

The oil penetrates deeply into the wood and the surface is protected so durable against dirt, moisture. The surface remains open to diffusion, which means in plain language that the pores NOT be closed, thus the wood to breathe. The oil has “cheer or invigorate” also an enhancing effect on the color of the wood and its structure, they say in the jargon.

Indeed I know the myth, “the wood can also be quiet sealed with salad oil” to which I can only say, “No, please do not!” A salad oil, rapeseed oil, olive oil, sunflower oil (though the latter dries faster, but also has the following disadvantages) z. As it will go rancid remains soft, greasy and does not dry out on the surface. Of course, it is completely safe from an environmental perspective, but it still does not make! So if you want to take an oil, then take linseed / it hardens after about 2–8 weeks out, or boiled linseed oil, this hardens after about 24 hours, as it was (Attention “refined” with other additives, I advise linseed oil Firnise to buy with heavy metal containing drying agents, they are marked!) this oil has beneficial properties such as water and weather resistance (timber). Also Tungaöl generated from the Chinese Tungaölbaum, ideal for surface treatment. Because it dries faster than linseed oil and forms a resinous, hard and dull surface. Therefore, tung oil is also often added as we know it Leinölfirnes, whereby drying is accelerated.

FURNITURE WITH FURNITURE / WOOD OIL TREATMENT HAS ADOPTED ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES:

advantages

  • pure natural product
  • environmentally friendly
  • easy to apply
  • fires / enhances the color of the wood
  • Floor or hard oils have improved properties (resistant) and can include. B. be used for countertops
  • works well on the indoor climate, since the pores of the wood remain open

DISADVANTAGE

  • not durable
  • must be made on a regular basis
  • Water stains can arise (to remove only by re-grind again)
  • Protection is not permanent

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My-Woodwork

Hello, my name is Amer, I live in Bavaria / Germany and am a master carpenter and founder of My-Woodwork. I want to share my skills and ideas with you.