WINSTON CHURCHILL: STYLE ICON AND INVENTOR OF THE ‘ONESIE’
The ‘siren suit’, which bears resemblance to the infamous ‘onesie’, is a practical one-piece item of clothing originally designed by Sir Winston Churchill during the Second World War to be quickly slipped over his clothes in the event of an air raid. The great statesman had a variety of siren suits, which he referred to as ‘romper suits,’ including sombre, military style suits, as well as more extravagant pin-striped and velvet versions.
It would seem that the former Prime Minister had developed something of a penchant for the outfit, opting to sport it for the most formal of occasions. Churchill wore one of these suits on a visit to the White House, Washington, in December 1941. At a press conference that week, Mrs Roosevelt declared she was having one made for her husband.
After the war, Churchill wore a siren suit again when he sat for sculptor Oscar Nemon in the 1950’s. After the sittings he gave the suit to Nemon as a souvenir. Small splashes of red paint on the trousers suggested Churchill also wore it whilst painting.
Due to Churchill’s rather large proportions, Turnbull & Asser have commissioned a bespoke mannequin to display the unique garment in the Science Museum. Expertly built using a fibreglass frame, the mannequin is covered in padding to mimic the former Prime Minister’s body shape, bringing the siren suit to life.
For those wishing to emulate the British bulldog’s style, Turnbull & Asser are due to launch a Churchill-inspired capsule collection to mark the 50th anniversary of his death this year, celebrating a great man, whose bold style and strong leadership inspired a nation.
You can see the green velvet siren suit on display together with the cigar Churchill smoked on the evening of the 1951 election when he heard he had been re-elected as Prime Minister.
During much of the 1940s, Great Britain was in crisis. Axis forces systematically attacked British supply ships, leading to shortages of gas, food, clothing, and other commodities.Each citizen received a ration book filled with coupons that, when presented in the correct numbers, could “buy” them gas, food, and, starting in 1941, clothing. But, the amount of clothing coupons dwindled each year, falling from 66 in 1941 to 24 in 1945.
At the same time, Brits lived under the threat of Nazi bombing campaigns. Thousands of bomb shelters were built across the nation and citywide air raid drills became a part of life in most British towns. Many a night’s silence was broken by the wail of air raid sirens, ushering citizens down into bomb shelters, where they waited for the “all clear” to sound. As soon as you heard the siren, you knew you’d better jump out of bed and run for your life, no matter how cold it was outside, or how scanty your nightgown may be.
So, to help people cover up in a hurry (while using a modicum of fabric), the “siren suit” was born.
They were a hit amongst women in particular. Mothers lusted after them for their high-quality material — the thick tartan wool of a too-small siren suit could be easily transformed into a smart new set of trousers for a growing child. With typical rationing-era ingenuity, they began sewing up their own designs, creating infinitely more fashionable variations than Churchill’s drab version.
Eventually, the war ended, the dust cleared, and rationing became a distant memory. The siren suit remained — though its popularity lessened as its necessity did. Its fearsome origins were forgotten as it transitioned back to its loungewear roots. The ’60s and ’70s saw designers put a luxe spin on the one-piece suit — Pucci’s version in silk paisley version proved especially popular with haute hippies of the era. Eventually, the one-piece left behind the memory of its past, leaving us with the whimsical, body-conscious garment we know and love today.
Name : Naman Dhanju
Submitted to : Belinda Mam
Subject: Cultural history of fashion
(Fashion Business Management)
ISDI (Indian school of Design and Innovation)
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