Riding a Third Class Train Across Thailand
Because I get FOMO very easily (mom, that means “fear of missing out,” ie I always want to do everything I possibly can even if it is wildly impractical), my plans for Thai New Year (Songkran) had me bouncing all over the place. Songkran is the one of the biggest holidays in Thailand; everyone goes home to their families to celebrate April 13–15. Trying to leave Bangkok the night before this celebration is like trying to fly anywhere in the US the Wednesday evening before Thanksgiving, except way worse. Because I was foolish and didn’t bother to plan ahead, I found myself on the eve of this holiday (April 12) in the train station in Bangkok, purchasing a standing room only ticket for a 7 hour train journey beginning at 8:00pm.
I decided to document my feelings throughout the train ride, so here they are for your amusement (or for those who are finding themselves trying to decide whether or not to embark on this journey).
Hour 0: Endlessly grateful to the gods of luck that led me to choose the ticket line (out of 20) that put me in conversation with the sweetest lady ever, who also was buying a ticket to Phitsanulok (my destination). Who then let me
crash in her little spot and also moved her stuff for me. Two other people gave me fans and another shared newspaper to sit on. I think people think it’s funny to see a farang on the ground, but I am loving the camaraderie in our shared laughter. Listening to Hamilton and I curl up after eating a lame rice/bamboo/chicken dish I bought in the airport.
Spirits: exceptionally high.
Hour 1.5: People occasionally are getting on and choosing to stick their butts right in my face. At the point where I find it funny, and hey, I certainly can’t blame them. I try to nap again.
Spirits: doing good
Hour 2: I realize my back already hurts and I am in hour 2 of 7. Not entering delirium yet but am quickly anticipating all the potential problems. Have I made an enormous mistake? What about when I have to pee? Will someone take my ballin spot? I offer to move over and share my spot with this young couple again and this time they take me up on the offer. I wish I spoke enough Thai (or rather had the energy to put in the communication efforts) to chat with them because they seem nice. Instead I keep listening to Hamilton. Sitting up has made me start sweating again…thank god for this fan.
Spirits: doing fine but treading on a dangerously thin thread.
Hour 3: I almost have to pee but deciding to hold it until it’s inevitable. Caved and ate my (only) cliff bar. Jealous of the adorableness of the young couple sleeping on each other next to me, trying to find a non-creepy moment to sneak a picture. Finished Hamilton, I finally was listening in the correct order and DAMN I want to see it. Now I’m (re)starting reading Cutting for Stone and also realizing I underestimated how HARD the ground is compared to a seat and how much that fucking matters. A lot.
Spirits: no change
Hour 3.5. Cut my hand on I have no idea what and then a spider crawled all over me. My butt hurts. One positive: book is decent.
Spirits: falling hard
Hour 4: Stood up bc butt was numb. Realized how packed to the brim we are now and holy shit am I glad I have this spot. Sitting ON my backpack now, huge improvement.
Spirits: back on the up and up
Hour 5: Read my book until I couldn’t keep my eyes open. Woke up back from my brief nap at a station and congratulated myself on making it so far into the journey. Checked the time we were supposed to make it at the station as we pulled out at 12:58. It should have been 12:02. On the plus side I’ve sweat enough that my need to pee hasn’t changed, and based on how crowded it is I’m not gonna try to squeeze my way out for fear of never making it back.
Spirits: back in the dumps, questioning lots of my decision making skills
Hour 6: For the first time all year, I am eternally grateful for the time difference. Yay for chatting with my mom/sister, best distraction of the night. Still haven’t peed.
Spirits: Rising out of the darkness
Hour 7: MAMA WE MADE IT. Takes me awhile to remember how to walk. Don’t even bother peeing at the train station, what’s another 10 minutes to the hotel after 7 hours of waiting?
Spirits: Tired AF, but YAY
TL;DR: Made for a great story but still probably wouldn’t repeat it/Thank goodness for the Hamilton soundtrack.
