Ting Ting Liang, owner of the city’s first lesbian bar, reflects on how queer identity has evolved in China’s largest metropolis. — Photos by Yuyang Liu Born in Den Ham, a small village in the Netherlands, Ting Ting Liang was practically raised in the kitchen. Her parents worked in and owned several eateries when she was growing up, and Liang, 31, says of the industry: “It kind of stays in your blood.”…