Ethiopia — Time travel to the 80s!
My first introduction to Ethiopian culture was when I lived in New York. I love food. I love exploring new cultures. Culture and food go hand in hand and so I had made it my goal to explore the melting pot that was New York. Ethiopian food and the introduction to Ethiopian culture happened just like that.
Although my family and I frequented Ethiopian restaurants wherever in the world we could find one — it never became a “must-visit” destination due to a variety of preconceived notions. I was fortunate to “crash” a holiday organised by Mr. Tadessee and his team at Ethiopian Airlines, who have taken it upon themselves to promote Ethiopia in India, to change these notions and get more people to experience the raw, untouched beauty.
Ethiopia reminded me of India back in the day (think 80s and 90s)
The best way to describe Addis Ababa, the capital city, is to compare it to a tier 2 city in India in the 90s. It has the same small-ish town feeling. In most parts of Ethiopia, roads are being developed, infrastructure is being invested in and no foreign brands have entered the market. It was truly refreshing to travel in a country devoid of in your face advertising.
Ethiopia is rooted in history
We visited Lake Tana, which was formed by volcanic activity more than 5 million years ago. Several islands in Lake Tana comprise of ancient monasteries. In Bahirdar, is the source of the Blue Nile River, which in turn was the source for the flooding of The Nile River which contributed to the rise of ancient Egypt. Our hike to visit The Blue Nile was nothing short of a mini challenge with breathtaking views.
Lalibela is known for its UNESCO protected, rock-hewn churches which date back to the 12th and 13th centuries. These were impressive underground monolithic churches — different from erected churches that we see later in history. We happened to be there on a religious day, and witnessed the prayer ceremony with thousands of people, dressed in white, participating in the ceremony.
Ethiopian Cuisine
Religion is a major influence and most people follow Ethiopian Orthodoxy. Through the year, Ethiopians adhere to a month long fast which prevents the consumption of any meat, thus making the cuisine vegetarian friendly. It consists of vegetables and lentil stews cooked in the main ingredient — Berbere. Ethiopian food is normally eaten with your hands, out of one large shared plate.
We experienced a traditional meal at a local cooking experience (Highly recommended to have an immersive experience!), where we learned to cook some of the main dishes, ate together and participated in the coffee ceremony. I still salivate thinking of this meal.
Coffee Ceremony
Ethiopians love their coffee and consider the process of preparing the coffee ceremonious. Traditionally the ceremony goes on for a long time and happens 3 times a day — from roasting, grinding and brewing fresh coffee. The idea is to gather as family or friends and exchange stories, ideas on politics, community, and life while the coffee is being prepared.
Lucy in the sky with diamonds
Human evolution can be witnessed first hand in Ethiopia. It gave me goosebumps to see “Lucy” the name given to several hundred pieces of bone fossils representing the skeleton of a female of the hominin (pre-human) species — dating 3.2 billion years ago. The fossil was excavated in 1974 and sits in the National Museum in Addis Ababa.
It is a place for patient travellers, looking to unplug and make conversations
Do not expect a grand, luxurious European getaway. Do not even expect a Glamping holiday in Africa. Remember a life without technology, international exposure, 5 star hotels and AC cars? Since there is no foreign exposure, you have to be patient with the now upcoming travel industry. They don’t yet know how to manage demanding tourists, and given the income disparity, you will find many locals find creative ways to ask for money. People are friendly and we felt safe, but just like in any country, it’s always recommended to have your guards up. Accommodation is basic, but all our hotels were clean and comfortable.
Wifi is limited and so conversations are more. Every local person we encountered — from the local bar to the hike up The Blue Nile, were friendly, curious and very welcoming.
One trip is not enough
Ethiopia is a large country with lots to see. We didn’t even scratch the surface of what the country has to offer — Tribes, Nature, Wildlife, History, Palaeontology and Trekking!
Fun fact: Ethiopia operates on its own Ethiopian Orthodox Calendar that is actively used. The Ethiopian calendar is 7 years behind the Gregorian calendar used internationally. (It is year 2011, in Ethiopia). Ethiopians also use a 12-hour clock. One cycle of 1 to 12 is from dawn to dusk and the other cycle is from dusk to dawn. So, 7:00 a.m. in “International time” would be 1:00 in Local Ethiopian time.