Stop punishing your skin! Physical exfoliators are damaging, try chemical ones, instead!

Nisha Chaudhary
Nov 7 · 6 min read

While exfoliators (commonly known as scrubs), are meant for clearing your skin off of any dirt, dry & dead skin cells and are indeed an integral part of a healthy skin regimen. Probably, no one told you that they do more harm than good to your skin. I am sure each of us have tried and used facial scrubs, also known as physical face exfoliators. Don’t we all love the super smooth feeling and the illusion of a squeaky clean skin after the exfoliation process. You might be wondering why I am using the word 'illusion' here. Haven’t we heard enough from all the dermatologists, big brand claims and every skin care expert out there; that exfoliation is a super duper important step in our skin care. I will come to that in a few, and explain why its an illusion.

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But for now let’s take a few examples. Ohh that amazing smelling fruit scrub (I am guessing that was papaya or orange, can’t remember!) you recently bought. It feels soo refreshing and leaves your skin supple and smooth.

Another huge favorite is a neem scrub, coupled with some tea tree oil and\or basil; ohh it opens the blocked pores and acts as a great anti-inflammatory agent, to help with those ugly acnes too. Or may be, you are a fan of an apricot or a walnut scrub or a volcanic ash or a charcoal variant or a coffee scrub. The list goes on.. there are so many of these available in the market. Anything that has particles basically, will fall in this category; no matter how small or big a company claims them to be.

But wait right there, my gorgeous people; do you know its been scientifically proven that physical exfoliators a.k.a. Face scrubs are more damaging to your skin than anyone ever told you. The marketing and branding divisions of all the big brands, show us a dream of a clean and clear skin, even-toned complexion, acne free face and viola! We fall for their gimmicks! With more and more awareness coming into the beauty industry, consumers are becoming more aware of the pros and cons of using certain types of products. But I still see, a plethora of my friends and family folks who swear by physical exfoliators. I am not against any brands here, but I definitely have my reservations about certain ones that have come out with great chemical exfoliators in the market.

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Now if you have a good memory, you would still remember; I called this as an illusion above. Yes, this is an illusion. Because, that smooth and clearer feeling skin on the top, actually has been torn apart underneath; I mean, literally!! Try seeing your skin under a micrososcope, if you dont trust me.

  • One of the risks, one runs is — Overdoing it! There is a thing, such as over-scrubbing and you wouldn’t even realize while doing it. One of the studies published in the Times Of India says: ““The topmost layer of the skin is a protective barrier layer. Too much scrubbing will disrupt this layer and make the skin more sensitive to UV rays, leading to easy tanning, rashes and sunburns. Also, the creams used for scrubs can block pores and cause whiteheads and infection of hair follicles, known as folliculitis.””
  • Also, while you’re harshly, rubbing your skin with those irregular shaped particles, in your favourite scrub; your skin cries for mercy in the beginning but then gets used to the strong circular movements (no matter how slow or gentle you try to be, they are still strong for your skin) You wouldn’t realize you have overdone it, until you see a chapped or torn skin next morning.
  • This one is the biggest reasons and why I recommend not using physical exfoliators. They cause micro-tears in your skin. Imagine, taking a knife or a stone with sharp surface bumps and rubbing that against the skin of your hand continuously for 10 minutes. You will notice it causes microtears and sometimes even big bruises visible to the naked eye. That’s exactly what your facial scrub is doing to your skin.
  • Lets say you have tiny black or white heads or acnes or smaller pimples. While you are rubbing your face (no matter how gentle you try to be), the tiny sharp & abrasive particles present in your scrub, are making microcuts in and around those pores not just spreading the infection to the neighbouring pores but also making the current ones larger. And thus, adding more complications into an already worse situation with your skin!

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So what’s the solution? After all, you do have to exfoliate your skin. Use chemical exfoliators instead. The chemical exfoliators use Acids (dont get scared! These acids are good friends), like AHAs (eg- Glycolic Acid) or BHAs (eg- Salicylic Acid). But beware, there is a difference in gentle daily exfoliators and chemical peels! I am no way recommending a chemical peeling solution, like what ‘the brand : Ordinary' has. Maybe it might be good for use by an expert or to say the least someone experienced with chemical peels, but if you are a beginner do not under any circumstances, go beyond 2% glycolic acid concentration and that too, alternate day use. Let your skin get used to it! I personally love, the Clinique brand for those daily clarifying lotions. While the physical exfoliators can’t be used regularly these can be used even daily! And they are super gentle!

The look that you get by using the physical scrubs in 10 minutes, will probably come after using them for 4-5 days. But trust me, your skin will thank you. Especially, because you can go for different variants for dry, oily or combination skins; in these. Also, its perfectly normal to see some tiny flakes forming in the beginning (like 1st or 2nd day). Since, your skin is not used to it. But this is your skin, naturally shedding the dry/dead cells from the top layer, instead of you forcing it to be removed. And once this is done, you have a usual toner like experience everyday you use them.

When I had initially introduced this to a friend of mine, i specifically told her to start it on thursday night and moisturize well. Friday she went to office usually, and by night fall; she noticed tiny dry flakes. She immediately called me and said her skin needs to be cleaned and so she will be using her usual scrub. I told her, to not even think about it! Rather continue her routine of cleaning it using the calrifying solution with a cotton pad. And don’t forget to moisturize. She is a fan of neutrogena hydro boost range. I honestly, love their blue color hydro boost range too, its pretty good for a drugstore line. She applied it twice as the 1st time, her skin soaked all of the hydro boost gel in. And then she felt relieved. But here’s what happened next. Since, she wasn’t planning on going out, i asked her to use the clarifying lotion on Saturday morning too. Followed by saturday evening, then sunday morning and sunday evening. Boy! Might I say she loved her skin on sunday. Ever since then, she has been using it only once, in her night time routine, after properly cleansing her face. Which is what, I do too!

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The thing is, we are so used to of instant results, from these sandpaper like products; that we don’t realize what that instant softer and smoother look is actually costing us on a long term basis. As explained by Dr. Annie Chiu, a dermatologist and founder of The Derm Institute and keeping in mind , that as with most things in skin-care, it’s not necessarily a one-size-fits-all situation. "It depends on your face, your skin type and your needs." But with that caveat too, she typically comes down on the side of chemical exfoliants, which she favors because they’re less abrasive. "This makes them a better choice for those with sensitive skin, acne, hyperpigmentation or dry skin. I generally choose a chemical exfoliant over a physical one"

Never forget, its very important to soothe and protect your skin after exfoliation, and that can only be done by using good moisturizers and (of course!) sunscreen. "Look for products with ceramides, hyaluronic acid and peptides to strengthen the skin barrier" adds Dr. Chiu. Chemical Exfoliation helps with acne lesions and cleanses pores, and acids like salicylic, lactic and glycolic fight oil and remove pore-clogging dead skin cells. What’s more and, these acids not just remove dead skin cells and debris from the skin, but they can also have long-term benefits for skin. Unlike physical exfoliants, over time, they smooth, brighten and even out skin tone because they also stimulate collagen production, firm up your skin and reduce wrinkles.

Now, that you know; why I titled this article as “punishing your skin", I hope you will make a better choice for your exfoliators. After all, a healthy skin is the first sign to get noticed, for a healthy looking body!!

    Nisha Chaudhary

    Written by

    Senior Program Manager at Microsoft! 12 yrs of living in hi-tech world didn't stop me from being a traveler, a writer & a dreamer! Love, drives & powerful cars!

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